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Kenny's 1990 740 GLE, goin' for 9's

no not that, the shaft that the gear spins on spins, and it was offset ground to miss the ears.. well since it spins, it doesn't always go back to the same place and clearance goes away.. I may try and reach up in there and grind the end down a bit, but some other modz will be required when the engine shuffle takes place later this year.
 
took the ramp time to go ahead and take the power steering stuff off the car (no belt, rack has issues with power assist anyway, and short timer.. power steering is shot in the new chassis as well), and did an alternator relocation that has a more favorable belt wrap.
 
My grandmother was looking at your thread and she sympathized with you and your camera difficulties. She use to have the same problem.

Anyhoo she made this helpful video for you.

http://youtu.be/AQv19TKTzls

Edit: I tried to explain Linux to her and she said "just spray them with the garden hose and they'll go away."
 
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ah. I didn't click the link. I don't connect the camera to the computer, I have a card reader that's faster. Me not posting video says more about my general disregard for the wants and wishes of the forum at large than anything else :-P
 
finished the alternator reloc (back to factory position, just spaced out a little, which brings it's own slightly aggravating issues)

put the grind on the starter nose, no more tap tap tap, that's good. got accurate calibration values for the map sensor I'm using (stupid aem unit, .5 to 4.5v wtf is that), discovered that with dos springos it's cranking out a healthy 19psi (well, at the moment. I expect that to go back down when I add ignition timing to it). need to wire the nitrous up and get some other things tidied up.
 
If you hear a racket and the sound of wheels spinning in the driveway and then a crash in the middle of the night, I lost control trying to steal it and put it in the ditch. Bring the tractor key.
 
If you hear a racket and the sound of wheels spinning in the driveway and then a crash in the middle of the night, I lost control trying to steal it and put it in the ditch. Bring the tractor key.

Edgar's gonna take you and a bag of lime on a drive into the woods.
 
got in a few minutes of tuning (I forsee this is how this is going to go for the next month, couple minutes every few days..), creepin' back up on the tune now that it's reading pressure correctly, need to get the boost control stuff sorted out (would like closed loop, we'll see), log a couple tanks of booze & make sure nothing else gets shaken loose, and then hopefully some trips to the track.
 
still messing with boost control, trying to get it to work. drove to the gas station, put 13.8 gallons in the tank (whoopsiee...). new belt on the alt/wp/crank pulley, hasn't thrown itself off the back yet (or the front for that matter). wondering if maybe the solenoid lines aren't connected correctly, at 100 DC on the solenoid I'm not getting a whole lot more than gate pressure (which appears to be a nominal 1.2 bar), I've begged pleaded and yelled it up to 1.6 bar, but that's about it. I'm requesting 2 bar.
 
try invert? also play with control MS algorithm, some have mentioned putting in a 1n4001 (honda junk though)

start with P on 100 and I and D on 0

shoot for 2 bar

if doesn't make it, turn down P

if it makes it, and overshoots, turn up p

once you get it in the ball park, tune I to tune out creep

D to dampen everything smooth
 
it works in the direction it's supposed to work (0% is nothing and 100% is more than nothing) I'm wondering if I've either got a leak on the top line side, or if the valve isn't plumbed correctly. I'll try swapping the outputs today. using the "simple" algorithm right now, I'll swap up if I need to, but it's hitting the DC's that should cause the boost to go WAAAAY high, and I'm getting.. not much increase.
 
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