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Recommendations for SCCA Rallycross Tires and other things

Thor

Thor

Active member
Joined
Feb 20, 2007
Location
Nebraska
After much contemplation on what to do with my 240 I've decided to try it out in my local NRSCCA Rallycross next season In the Modified RWD group. So I'm taking the winter months to do some reversible conversions. This LINK is to my current 240 and what I'll be working with.

Tires -
I have 14" Corona rims that I'll be using. Looking in the 185/65R14 size I've seen lots of recommendations for the Firestone Winterforce tires. But does anyone have any other reasonably priced options? I have budgeted up to $600 for tires so there's that.

Suspension
I have B&G springs in it for now so I'll see how they go.
Front struts will be Billy 34-030837 (350/150) waiting to go in
Rear shocks are KYB Gas a just
IPD 25/25 sway bars - will likely go back to stock rear bar for better articulation.

Rear end:
Spartan Locker or Aussie Locker - To be purchased, No I am not going to weld it. Been there, done that.

Interior/adding lightness:
Taking out anything I can unbolt. Have to keep the passenger seat per the rules. Trunk has already been cleared out. Rear Muffler deleted and crash triangles are gone as well.

I'll take any suggestions into consideration with in reason. This is my first foray into off roading things so I'm on a lower budget incase I find that I don't want to go all in.

Link to my local SCCA Rally X rule book - HERE
 
Tires -
Nokian hakkapeliitta 8
Put the front ones backward.

Suspension
Billy Hd 4 corners and stock spring.
350 is waaaaaaay too stiff.

No sway bars, these things are evil.

Rear end:
gearing gearing gearing.

Interior/adding lightness:
whatever

Oh, and by the way GEARING!

:-P
 
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Tuff240 said:
This tickled my curious button. Why do you put the fronts on backwards? Braking traction?
Click to expand...

Exactly.

If you have GOOD winter tires laying around, just pass your hand on the surface. You will notice a lot more resistance when you go "counter-rotation".

That's a cheap trick you can do with rwd. (the front don't need traction going foward)

Not a world of difference but noticeable.

Edited : just saw you are in California, I guess winter tires are not everywhere.
 
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Ditch the sways, you definitely don't want them if you want to be quick.
The re-valved bilsteins might be a little stiff, but probably not much to really notice. No idea on the KYBs, my go-to (even on the rally car) is Gabriel Ultras in the rear.
B&G springs are probably fine unless they're lowing springs...

Locker is a good touch, and waaaay better than a welded diff. I'm with Vincent on gearing. 4.10 for stock diff, or 4.88 or 5.xx if you're rebuilding it. Go for the 5.xx if you can spare the extra $100.

Tires, totally depends on the surface and temps that you're racing on.
Mud? Get a dedicated rally-x mud tire, or snows and cut out every other tread block.
Hard pack? Nokian hakkapeliitta 8 as Vincent mentioned.
Loose/grass? Winterforce tires have an open tread pattern and work really well.

Want dedicated rall-x tires? http://rally.build/category/products/rally-tires/
 
Nokian Hakkapelitta 8 for sure! You can get rally springs that will keep your factory ride height but will be stiffer to classicswede that will help with handling and have less drunken sailor-like handling. Kaplhenke spherical rear axle bushings to let that axle articulate fully and adjustable torque and panhard rods to keep everything square no matter your ride height.
 
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For $600 you could get a nice set of used gravel tires...or....about 3 sets of general altimax artic. Those seam to be the favorite around here at least.
 
When you say no sways. Is that none on the rear or non all around and let the shocks and struts do all the work?

I'm not sure if studded tires are allowed I'll have to look into it. Thanks for the suggestions though I'll keep them in mind.

The B&Gs are lowering springs. So I'll see how they do. May switch to wagon springs in the rear and stock or something stiffer up front. Although I watched a stock Miata do just fine a few months ago.
 
The local area course is usually hard pack but can get muddy if it storms or snows the night or days before.
 
You can get Hakka 8's unstudded. If it is possible, I would go for some classic Swede springs. Factory height with the stability of lowering springs. I've seen some low slung cars make it through some rough stages somehow with little extra damage.
 
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