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122 T5 motor swap. Its name is Bluey.

Cool project!

A couple of comments:

You should consider welding a 90 degree elbow to the compressor outlet. That will keep you from having to stick a silicone coupler so close to the turbine inlet flange.

I would not recommend replacing the stock crank pulley like that. The stock pulley is also the harmonic balancer for the engine. Running without one can cause all kinds of headaches (like snapped cranks). You can probably get a serp pulley for the alternator. I know you're tight on space, but removing the balancer is asking for trouble.
 
Thanks for the input!

Great suggestion, I definitely will be welding an aluminum elbow on the compressor housing. My welder actually suggested it when I showed him that photo and asked him if I was going to melt the silicone.

The crank pulley issue is an interesting one, there's lots of anecdotal info and scientific info. It seems to be a crapshoot from car to car. I've heard of Porsche engines disintegrating from people replacing the dual mass flywheel with a single mass, I've heard of Ford V8s breaking the crank from having the wrong harmonic balancer... Yet there is a solid lightweight pulley available from Unorthodox Racing that was sold by ARD and lots of guys run them on whiteblock 5 cylinder engines with no problems. I've heard of a couple cases of the pulley damaging the serpentine belt but obviously that wouldn't be an issue for me.

The good news is that I'm not modifying anything to be irreversible so if I have any problems (short of blowing my motor) I can switch back. Supposedly the alternator has a standard shaft, the company sells it with either a serpentine or V belt pulley (but I couldn't find where to buy it with serpentine, it's a fairly new product). And the brackets I plan to build won't affect which belt I use. But the simplicity and space savings, combined with the fairly large number of guys running the UR pulley with no problems is enough that I'm gonna try it this way for a start. Time will tell if I'm an idiot for not heeding your advice.
 
Yeah I'm coming up on 2 years not running though and it's starting to bug me. The crossmember has been sitting at my buddy's shop for almost 3 months now, but it's hard to bitch at him because he does my stuff for free. Well not really free, but I do CAD work for him in exchange so as a one man shop he can't afford to turn away or delay cash customers. I mean, I stopped by his place at 6 PM on a friday night and he was frantically assembling a pair of Subaru cylinder heads to make his promised delivery. Dude is busy.

The good news is I'm no longer unemployed so progress will continue.
 
Glad to say I can finally update some real progress. I got my welding buddy to give me some time. A month ago he finished welding these brackets which I then primed:

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Then I fixtured up the pan with a ratchet strap:

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And I cut cardboard templates for the motor mounts:

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Then I ordered some square tubing and cut the pieces myself, so all he had to do is weld.

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So today he carved out some time and welded the parts all together:

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And the finished product, everything lines up as it should:

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I have the clearance I wanted for the control arm:

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A little more than I planned under the pan:

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But the lower part of the pan is flush and parallel to the crossmember which is probably most important. I don't want this hanging down.

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And back home ready to go in the car. I bought extra large washers and gave myself 1/2" of clearance in the mounts, so I can move the engine forward and backward as needed, to position it where I want. Also the fat washers allow me to adjust up and down or left and right by simply enlarging the holes in the brackets. So I should be able to fine tune the engine position perfectly:

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That was the most frustrating part of the last 6 months, having the crossmember out of the car. This meant the car was immobile on jack stands, in the spot of my garage where I do all my work. So I had a couple other big jobs on my other cars that I had to do on the crowded side, which was not fun. Now that these mounts are done the crossmember does not have to come back out of the car ever again. I will though, to get it powder coated after all the other work is done.

In addition to finishing that, I got a holiday bonus at my new job which means car parts!

Radiator and fan kit! Shamelessly stolen from AndrewNance's project.

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This is a 13 x 18 core but it's 2 inches thick. It claims to be able to handle the cooling needs of up to 400 hp motors but we'll see about that. The fan is made for this radiator by flex-a-lite, and at 2.5" is the thinnest fan setup I could find. I like having the two fans, I can use the stock Volvo high/low fan logic to run one or both depending on how hot things are.

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But the point of buying it is that it fits with very little modification to the car. I just have to widen the core supports.

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So I did! This is the first irreversible damage to the car, no going back now! Heck, even if I did go back to the original motor this radiator is a far superior setup to the original. Also of course the damage isn't really irreversible, it would just require a couple repair panels from a junkyard car.

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So while I had the sawzall out I decided to cut out the transmission tunnel:

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I also bought an intercooler core but it hasn't arrived yet so no pictures. With the motor mounts done the next step is to try and fit the transmission into the car, and cut away the floorboards and firewall a half inch at a time until it clears. Then I'll know if I need any pedal modifications or anything like that. Between getting these parts done and having a job, I have much more motivation to work on this car again so I should have at least one more update before Christmas. My new goal is to have the car running by the annual import drag races which usually happen the first weekend in June.
 
Those motor mounts came out great! And I wish I'd seen that radiator option before I bought my "universal" Northern Radiators one. It looks like much better quality. Keep up the good work.
 
Holy ****! Two updates in a week? Yeah I have some motivation.

So things don't always work the way you want....

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Just kidding, it goes in fine if you just tilt it under one side first. So Tuesday night I spent the whole evening re-assembling the suspension, the car is now back on its own wheels.

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They attach to the engine very nicely. Right side:

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Left side: You can see why I used such thick plate, since the bolts are fairly sparse and spread out.

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But it goes back in generally where I wanted it.

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Unfortunately the holes in the crossmember are pretty far off. The motor tilts waaaay back. I'll have to get a burr and elongate the front holes so I can tilt it down quite a bit.

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The good news, I have plenty of room up front for everything. This is the radiator, fan, and a cardboard intercooler mockup all with room to move back toward the engine a little. Which is good because the intercooler is touching the grilles in this scenario.

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I like this though, the crossmember is the lowest point.

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Looks like the engine is slightly off to the left...

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We'll deal with that later. Tonight I made a very simple alternator bracket.

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Works great!

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Plenty of clearance for the intake tubing.

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I might have some trouble with an upper bracket though, these are basically the only two bolt holes available in that area. More research needed.

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Still, great fit. I can definitely go to one size larger on the alternator if this one doesn't work for some reason.

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But yeah, the engine is definitely off to the passenger side. Wonder what's up with that?

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So now my up-pipe hits the fender.

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Here you can see that the hole will have to go down a full bolt diameter to get the engine at the right angle.

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So I'm not sure what's up with the engine misalignment, but I borked my mounts pretty badly. What sucks is that my oil pan centerline mark that you can see in my previous post is still lined up perfectly with the crossmember, and the pan clearance on the control arm is still right where I want it. So I somehow mis-communicated with myself, and things aren't quite adding up.

On the plus side, I think I can fix it by just changing the holes in the crossmember, but I'm worried a little about how severe the misalignment of the mounts will be. I'll have to see how easily bent those plates are. And if I can't bring the engine over to the driver's side I'll have a real problem. But I don't think that will be the case. If that turns out to be my biggest problem I'll take it, everything else is going pretty well so far.
 
It is progressing well now. It is worth strengthen the crossmember as the do have a habbit of ripping the tubes out where the lower wishbone bolt goes through. Should have mentioned sooner



 
Try using a SPAL low-profile fan. I got one for my swap and it's barely 2" deep at the deepest point.

I have one mounted as close to the radiator as possible and it sits about 3/8" from the water pump. I can't find any sort of shroud that works either. If I moved the radiator forward any I wouldn't have any room for an intercooler. That's why I need that 360 water pump deal so badly.
 
If you need 360 parts you do know I am the biggest supplier of 300 series parts and have the short water pumps fo both Bxx and Bxxx engines (the short version)
 
Yes, but can you get the WP pulley? I believe the correct part # for the B19 (B21/B23) pulley is 3283023 and the B200 (B230) pulley is 1346447. The shorter pumps are worthless without the matching pulley.

These are the only pics I can find and they're of the B19 pulley.

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If you need 360 parts you do know I am the biggest supplier of 300 series parts and have the short water pumps fo both Bxx and Bxxx engines (the short version)

If you can ever get the appropriate pulley, please let me know and I will pay for it. I would love to get the same bolt-on fan dealio that Lloyd is using.
 
The hat portion on the standard WP pulley is straight isn't it? If so then it should be a simple matter of having someone cut out the excess length on a lathe and welding it back together. I mean, there are enough people on the forum with that capability that $50 here or there ought to get it done, if that is the roadblock. If I still had access to a lathe I'd volunteer to do it myself.

In other news, the intercooler core finally arrived. It's a little bigger than my cardboard but everything still fits okay. In the end it should look like it was meant to be there.

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Someone in Australia with a b23et 122, has a ford falcon xr6 turbo intercooler that fits perfectly.... Could be worth it.
 
One last update before the holidays arrive and the new year kicks in. This one was weird, I ordered 12" of 6 inch diameter, 1/8" wall tubing. The box was rattling when I got it which confused me. I found this inside:

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Apparently when you order 1 foot of large aluminum tube they send along a whole batch of 12" remnants as well. Not too shabby for $24 shipped.

Next I trimmed the brackets on the fan so they are a lot cleaner, and mounted the fan up.

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Then I played the game of "who wants to ruin a $300 radiator"

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Fortunately I didn't actually ruin it, I trimmed off the mounting tabs that raised it up a half inch. I don't want it that high so I removed them, I have another mounting scheme in mind.

I also removed the filler neck, as I don't need it either. I'll just cap the hole and put a bleeder nipple in its place that connects back to the reservoir, like the factory system.

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Here you can see with things just balanced in place, that I have about a half inch between the intercooler and radiator, when they are close to final mounting position.

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Here's the final clearance to the front of the engine. It's actually a little more than I originally planned, I do believe I can go back to the factory harmonic balancer and serpentine belt if I need to.

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This just shows the clearance I was looking for by removing the filler neck:

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This is sort of odd, there's still about 1/8" to 1/4" of air gap on the fan assembly. I think if I carefully work the seal, or possibly cut it back on the sides, I can get this fan to tuck even tighter against the radiator.

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This brace is necessary for proper hood closure but will have to be modified to clear the radiator:

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Drilled out the welds:

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This shows just how little I'll have to modify the top support, if I cut the flange and bend the middle part up a bit it'll sit right in like it was meant for it. Basically I'm just being uptight and refusing to cut this upper support as much as AndrewNance did. Probably wasting my time but whatever, we all have our own quirks.

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I'll be visiting family for the holidays so when I get back I'll finish the intercooler end tanks, and get it and the radiator mounted up properly and permanently. Sad that I just passed 2 years on this project, I did not anticipate it taking this long. On the other hand I didn't anticipate losing my job for 11 months meaning zero dollars for car mods. Back on track now though.
 
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