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945 Daily Turbo Fun (My first Project)

Replaced my NGK BPR7ES with the Bosch plugs today and knocking is gone completely :wtf: :)
(at least with 98octane)
Damn thats a good tip.

Measured gaps and discovered that the NGK plugs were at 0,75-0,8mm while the Bosch are all at 0,7mm.
Is that part of the problem?


The old plugs look alright?!

Damn that is very good info! Thanks (again) JerryJS8 !

Looking foward to see the rest of your build and maybe learn more useful tips for mine :)
 
Assembled the intake manifold with all the new bits and i like it a lot:



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Instead of the 940 throttle switch, i used a potentiometer from a 850.
Unfortunately they changed the bolt pattern so i made an adapter.
Also made a block plate for the coldstart injector opening.
For the intake air temp sensor i drilled and tapped the unused hole on the throttle body. 3/8" thread works nice there.









Had some fun snow drifting until this:


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Volvo 0
Curb 1


Really happy i had the steelies on the car.

A new adjustable panhard bar is already on its way ;-)
 
Finally the project gets some drive.
The car is in my new Workshop and already disassembled.
I removed the whole suspension assembly for some rust removal and painting.







I started to assemble the engine. Turbo Oil drain got a 3/4" AN10 fitting. Coated some exhaust parts just for fun.







I found some unused connectors behind the right headlight. they are connected to the relais wich is mounted at the water expansion tank. What are they used for? Foglights maybe?



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Glad to hear the plugs helped out!

The wires you got there:

The blue and black wires with the rubber surrounding is for a temp switch usually mounted in the radiator to controll the e-fan in front of the A/C condensor.

No clue what the other connector is, but it doesn't look like it's ever been used. Could have been intended for the low water sensor in the wiper fluid reservoir?

Keep up the good work! Rust prevention is something worth every minute invested...
 
Thanks Jerry, the cables are indeed for an electric Fan. They go all the way around to the battery . I removed them becouse i use the fan relais from the later models.




We have good progress the last weeks:


-The 531 head has bigger valves and stronger springs, otherwise stock.
-The engine is assembled and in the car
-Tubo is mounted including oil, water and air connections
-KL-Racing intercooler
-New AN6 fuellines all the way from tank to enginge
-Crankcase ventilation is installed.




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The steering rack was leaking and klonking. Now we have a new one.
Made a servo delete plate until i figured out the elctrical servo thing.






And today mock up of the new exhaust system.
70mm (2,75") from turbo to exhaust. 200 cell cat.
The welding will be done from a professional becouse i even had problems to pin the parts together ;-)



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Oh and the engine is running! :rockon:
Well, kind of. Its way to rich an unstable spark on cylinder 3.
The rich condition could be caused by the lack of a proper lambda signal.
Further invenstigastions will be made when the exhaust is finished. Its kind of loud without it haha.
 
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The steering pump arrived. I chose a pump from a mercedes a-class, they seem to be popular for conversions. It only needs power and a 12V signal to turn it on.

Fabricated a bracket with my massive wig welding skills. :rofl:

I will mount it near the battery. Used rubber mounts to keep noise low.
More progress tomorrow.

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The power steering conversion is complete.
The pump is mounted on the framerail between alternator and radiator. Plenty of space here and the hose length is short.

The original return line fits perfectly. Just cut it about 10cm and clamp it on the pump connector, wich has 10mm diameter.

For the feed line, I ordered a custom built hydraulic hose with a pressure rating of 200bar. The steering rack end has a M14x1,5 banjo bolt and the pump end M16x1,5 bolt. One connector is rotated 90 degrees. The hose cost around 25?.

The electrical connection couldnt be easier. Just wired the cables directly to the alternator.
Even the wire length was perfect. The Pump will switch on when the Motor is running. It has a standby mode that requires less current when no steering input occurs.
I have not driven the car jet but the feeling in idle is nice.


 
I am so excited about this:


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Not so excited about the idle behaviour of the motor.
Way too rich and misfire. Above 2000rpm everything is perfectly fine.

I have switched almost every part by now without any effect.


I am afraid that the cam in combination with big valves and 531 head is just a bit too much for stable idle.
It is a KG Trimning KG2T Turbo Cam.

VALVE LIFT IN 10,5
VALVE LIFT OUT 11,9
NOCK ANGLE 114?
DURATION 300?

I think i go back to the VX3 cam.


Has anyone experienced this issue?
 
If you mean the exhaust, it is selfmade from 70mm (2,75") stainless tubing, 200cell cat and v-band clamps. The tube after cat is reduced to 58mm (2,25") to the standard stainless exhaust system with two mufflers.
 
how mka your head with bigger valve? expansive?


I purchased some big valves from volksraceshop in sweden and gave them to the engine shop along with the head and all the other motor bits.
I dont know what the cost would be for only valves.




I drove the car now for a while. Everything is perfectly fine exept for the ****ty idle.
I just ignore it at the moment.
Dialed the boost in at 1,5bar (22psi) and the car pulls nice from 3,5k and hard from 5k to top. This is a completely new thing for me. I am used to peak torque until 4k and not much more after that. The car is clearly faster now but the turbo fun factor is a bit lower.
I`ll give the VX3 Cam a try.


The power steering is okay. The steering is a bit heavier which is nice. But the point when the steering wheel changes direction is a bit too hard. Maybe the fresh rebuilt steering rack needs some time to break in.
After all, i would do it again but maybe with another pump (from Mini Cooper).


Thats what the engine bay looks right now:
The area around the intake is a bit untidy, but that will be better with the new intake and fuelrail.



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