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project turbo 16v 740

nathaninwa said:
They work fine on a 16v block.
Click to expand...


No they don't, I have pulled a good number from junk yard cars with the tooth sheared off.

I just sold out of crank gears today (maybe something to do with this thread?) I am working on a new source for them and hopefully a lower price.
 
I think it's just the harmonics of turning over 6500rpm that causes it to fail. I'm not the first person to have it happen, I torque the crank bolt extremely tight, that's probably why it didn't turn very much after it sheared. The EDIS wheel has served me well for years. The stock 16v crank gear took about 4 years of abuse before it sheared at SE last year. At that point, Kenny welded a notch on there that I filed down because I couldn't find another gear. I continued to use that until now so it was already in a weakened state. I figured the weld would hold but it didn't.

I am looking at notching my crank pulley itself to fit over the part of the key that sticks out on the billet gear.
 
that gear is a terrible cast, i would be careful notching it or welding on it... i would just bite the bullet and get the billet gear, its cheep insurance...
 
2fast242gt said:
that gear is a terrible cast, i would be careful notching it or welding on it... i would just bite the bullet and get the billet gear, its cheep insurance...
Click to expand...

I was talking about notching my crank pulley to use with the billet gear. Since my trigger wheel is on my crank pulley it has to be keyed with the crank gear, I can't just bolt it on there any old position.
 
Well I finally got around to doing something. I got the billet steel crank gear and drilled it for a locating pin to match up to my crank pulley which the trigger wheel is attached to.

I went out this afternoon and re-installed everything, changed the plugs and went to start it. I had to use a jump box but it started up and ran normally.

I need to replace the battery, put all my MS stuff back up under the dash, fix the IAC and replace the WBO2 sensor but it seems to run well. I think I had my boost controller bypassed so I'll have to put that back.

I was going to take a video but I ran out of time.
 
stock crank gear design is just crap. it has nothing to do with the cast it's just a little nub that slides into the crank thats supposed to hold the stress of the timing belt, crank pulley and all belts associated with it.
 
The car has been sitting for a long time but it's still in good shape. I went out and put a battery in it, then started it for the first time in a long time. It reminded me that I need to tweak cold start settings because it really only starts trouble-free on really hot days.

The last few things I have to do to this car are replace the glovebox assembly, which I have a replacement for, then tweak the cold start settings. I'm in no rush to work on it. It runs nicely and is on the back burner, since I just bought a house.
 
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