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Old 06-07-2011, 04:16 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by beepee View Post
Every factory TURBO bin I have seen has the WOT map blanked out (all zeros). There is also an "enable WOT switch" flag that is usually disabled.
I think it was 563 box which had this WOT issue, I converted engine wiring loom for turbo, but I didn't cut WOT cable. Thought it was not needed.
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Old 12-05-2011, 12:26 AM   #27
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I just did this swap, but can't get it to start. My 78 K-Jet has no stock ECU like your 84, so the wiring is even more simplified, but that's making it more difficult to follow these instructions. Please advise. Instead of posting all the details here, I just made a new thread.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=248471
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:57 PM   #28
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I just got my 1975 244 back up and running perfect on LH2.4. Parts are also cheap and abundant!
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:42 PM   #29
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I have a 11 wire plug on my donor harness because the car had abs but im not converting to abs. howerver im lost because I have one big yellow and red, I understand what do do with that but then you said small yellow red to fuse panel. well I have 3 small yellow reds...idk what they are for
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:46 PM   #30
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nvm figure that out. 2 of them weren't actually coming out of the clear plug. ok I don't have a red/black stripe wire in mine you said this powers speedo? I have a all blue I understand that goes to the back of the speedo by the speed sensor wires. I have a blue and black wire though that splits one goes to a plug in the back of the speedo one goes to a random black plug any idea what that is?
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Old 01-09-2014, 02:32 AM   #31
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Here are the two plug variations on the electric speedo.

http://cleanflametrap.com/speedo.html

I am currently trying to figure out why mine is not working. The wiring diagram don't show the black ground that have been mentioned in a few of the posts. I'm heading out in the garage to try that out right now.

What car are you going 2.4 on? I just got my '81 up and running (minus the speedo working). I might be able to assist you in some wiring questions.

edit:
Speedometer is now working! The speedo was not properly grounded!
Also of note, the switched power for the cluster cannot be fuse #5 on older k-jet cars. This fuse is hot all the time. There is a distinct break/gap in the fuse panel further down, the fuses are switched after the gap. So power for the cluster needs to come from the lower section.

There are two different wiring layouts for the plug, like linked to above. If the plug has a blue, green/white, and black wire: The blue is switched power for the entire cluster! (otherwise your warning lights are on ALL THE TIME, if not hooked up the cluster will not have power), green/white is the power from the cluster to the sensor, and black is grounded (for both the sensor and the cluster).

If the wires are red/black, black, and blue: then red/black is power, black is ground, and blue is power to the sensor.
Another thing I found: Some clusters have the green/white and black wires switched. I had mine as in the picture above, but the speed was way off and the needle was jerky. I put the green/white in the middle spot and the black in the lower location, and all is good now. Power remained in the same location.

Sensor wiring: Run the power from cluster to speedo sensor (Blue or green/white depending on plug), then run the other terminal of the speedo sensor to ground. I used the ground on the drivers side of the center console.

I'm going for a drive in a day or two. I can't wait to blow the cobwebs off, it's been to long!
Thanks for the info in this thread everyone!

Last edited by culberro; 01-10-2014 at 10:45 PM..
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:04 PM   #32
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I have the white/green black, and blue wire. I swapped a b230f into a diesel 240 chassis and im trying to get it running on lh2.4
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Old 01-10-2014, 01:01 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by travisminchew View Post
I have the white/green black, and blue wire. I swapped a b230f into a diesel 240 chassis and im trying to get it running on lh2.4
The ****ing colors don't ****ing matter you ****ing ****. Jesus ****ing Christ how many times did we ****ing go over this ****ing ****
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Old 01-10-2014, 02:20 AM   #34
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lol erik I know your point of pin numbers is what matters but colors tell you the same thing on certain wires. HOWEVER tomorrow ill look at pin numbers just for you =]
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Old 01-10-2014, 02:21 AM   #35
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colors do matter though just not AS much as pin numbers
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Old 01-10-2014, 03:18 AM   #36
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In his defense, the wiring diagram for the speedo is incorrect (no ground shown in the three that I have looked at) and there are no pin outs.
BUT! When wiring everything else in, I used the pin outs and the LH manuals and wiring diagrams.

Look at the diagrams. Find the pins to the wires that are needed. Label the wires. You then supply the wires what they need, or you hook them up to what they power/control.
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Old 01-10-2014, 03:49 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by culberro View Post
In his defense, the wiring diagram for the speedo is incorrect (no ground shown in the three that I have looked at) and there are no pin outs.
BUT! When wiring everything else in, I used the pin outs and the LH manuals and wiring diagrams.

Look at the diagrams. Find the pins to the wires that are needed. Label the wires. You then supply the wires what they need, or you hook them up to what they power/control.
so you used an lh2.4 speedometer? what did you do about all the pins in the plugs to the back of the speedo. like none of them are the same lol
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Old 01-10-2014, 12:06 PM   #38
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You can use a cluster from a car with an electric speedo. Or, you can use a lh2.2 throttle body. I would choose this route, as it's less wiring. You have to swap the tps to the 2.2 throttle body, but that's not hard at all.
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Old 01-10-2014, 04:48 PM   #39
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right now i have power to the coil. power to the powerstage, power to fuel pumps BUT my main fuel pump wont stop priming it just keeps on priming if the key is on. what would cause the fuel pump to keep priming like that
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Old 01-10-2014, 06:19 PM   #40
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Either a problem in the ECU or the pump is wired incorrectly. Where is the power for the fuel pumps coming from? I need actual wire colors and pin locations, and remember that pictures help.

You should start your own thread about the Diesel to LH swap. So others can learn. Similar to this one, but all about the diesel to LH swap.
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Old 01-10-2014, 06:39 PM   #41
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once i have it running ill be making an entire thread about the car, i got this car as a shell with doors an glass that's it lol its been a big project. right now i have
both bid red to switched power at fusebox,
i have BIG yellow/red AND small yellow/red to switched power at fuse box,
i have blue/black to switched power at fusebox

i have jumper wire from battery to coil to power coil currently.

i have fuel to the fuel rail but injectors ARE NOT firing. i have power to COIL AND POWERSTAGE but no spark at the sparkplugs
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Old 01-10-2014, 07:17 PM   #42
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Okay, so the big red/yellow should not be wired into the fusebox. That's why they are running all the time. When the key is on, the pumps are on right? If you look at the photos in the other thread, there is a big red/yellow from the white relay in the passenger footwell. This is what powers the fuel pumps. The ECU will cycle them for a few seconds, and then continuously when the engine is rotating.

What pin in the blue/black going to in the ECU connector? That might be the cruise control input into the ECU and not the switched power for the ECU. My harness has a solid blue wire for the switched power to the ECU, and the blue/black is for the cruise control input. That is why we keep asking your what pin location they are in. The pin locations will not change for LH2.4, but the wire colors may.

To keep things simple, let's keep the conversation in the other thread, this multiple thread thing is difficult. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...=282678&page=3
When a solution is found, you can either update your solution here or make your own specific Diesel to LH2.4 swap thread.

Last edited by culberro; 01-10-2014 at 07:27 PM..
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Old 04-07-2014, 06:27 PM   #43
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Please can I ask for some advise!!? (And hopefully save me some time).... I have a 1990 2.0 240 with LH2.4. The engine is out of the car but I left the harness intact. I have a b230ft from a 1996 940 (again LH2.4) with the ecu and ezk.

Currently this is still in the car and I am trying to unpick what part of the harness I need to keep. However reading this thread (+ loads of others! )

I would really like to know:- If I just take the b230ft out of the 960, drop it in the 240, attach the 240 loom and and hook up the ecu's (deal with the immobiliser) do I need to do anything else!?

(This is a wiring question only, I have an idea (!) of the other things required http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=42051))

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Old 04-09-2014, 06:07 AM   #44
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* always search from google!
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=36451
http://www.forums.turbobricks.com/sh...ad.php?t=60700

Any further advise gladly welcome. This is like creeping forward in the dark, you never know what you might come across :D
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Old 06-18-2014, 03:21 PM   #45
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Hey guys, I figure I'd update the cluster wiring with a diagram to better help people who don't want to constantly go back and forth when figuring this out. Enjoy!



In addition, it's important to remember that the vehicle speed signal wire (blue-black) from the ECU gets put on one of the two male spades from #200 on the LH2.4 cluster diagram.





Wildman: If you already have a car set up with an LH2.4 harness, it's as easy as swapping over the engine, hooking up all the sensors, plugging in turbo computers, and turning the key.

Although, a note: LH2.4 240's do not use a resistor pack for the injectors as the injectors in your 240 are already high impedance; your 940 turbo has a resistor pack to make the low impedance resistors run.

What this means: You need to use high impedance injectors with your LH2.4 240 unless you wish to run stock 940 turbo injectors. This requires splicing in the resistor ballast from your 940. My recommendation is to leave the 240's harness intact and simply find high impedance injectors to run with the setup as splicing in the ballast can be a pain.

Quote:
Originally Posted by culberro View Post
Okay, so the big red/yellow should not be wired into the fusebox. That's why they are running all the time. When the key is on, the pumps are on right? If you look at the photos in the other thread, there is a big red/yellow from the white relay in the passenger footwell. This is what powers the fuel pumps. The ECU will cycle them for a few seconds, and then continuously when the engine is rotating.

What pin in the blue/black going to in the ECU connector? That might be the cruise control input into the ECU and not the switched power for the ECU. My harness has a solid blue wire for the switched power to the ECU, and the blue/black is for the cruise control input. That is why we keep asking your what pin location they are in. The pin locations will not change for LH2.4, but the wire colors may.

To keep things simple, let's keep the conversation in the other thread, this multiple thread thing is difficult. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...=282678&page=3
When a solution is found, you can either update your solution here or make your own specific Diesel to LH2.4 swap thread.
The above graph might help your query about the BL-BLK wire, which I believe is the center wire and goes to male spades in position #200 on the LH2.4 gauge cluster diagram. The only differences I was able to spot in the clusters is that 32/A in the diagram for K-Jet supplies switched power for the cluster, while as in LH2.4 cars, it can be in charge of auxiliary options for the vehicle. Possibly ABS? I don't know offhand, unfortunately. If you inspect the pin location for 32/A on your cluster, you'll see that it likely won't have a pin there-- just an empty slot for cars that may have this feature.
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Last edited by Xovaan; 06-18-2014 at 03:39 PM..
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Old 06-19-2014, 07:52 AM   #46
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Do you need the later rear end and a electric speedometer For engine to run with the LH2.4?

Last edited by photoman327; 06-19-2014 at 03:40 PM..
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Old 06-19-2014, 04:38 PM   #47
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Do you need the later rear end and a electric speedometer For engine to run with the LH2.4?
If you want to run the car with an idle-air control, then yes. If you don't. it will have a hunting idle.

You can also get a lh2.2 throttle body (has a nice little needle valve for adjusting idle) and use that to set idle, and then disconnect the IAC. Or, you can use the lh2.4 and set the idle using the adjustable links. The downside is that without an IAC the car will barely run when cold, really low revs.
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Old 06-19-2014, 06:08 PM   #48
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If you want to run the car with an idle-air control, then yes. If you don't. it will have a hunting idle.

You can also get a lh2.2 throttle body (has a nice little needle valve for adjusting idle) and use that to set idle, and then disconnect the IAC. Or, you can use the lh2.4 and set the idle using the adjustable links. The downside is that without an IAC the car will barely run when cold, really low revs.
Thanks, trying to plan a course of action for that 1980 242. Going to the later dash set up and will not have a speedometer until I find a rear end.
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Old 08-07-2014, 07:13 PM   #49
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just a quick update on this thread since there isnt much concrete information on the ABS cars with the 11 pin connector. the good news is that its still just 5 wires, and I'm here to tell you where to connect them.

my 81 242ti had k-jet previously (obviously) and I initially did the lh2.2 swap, then later did 2.4. my donor car had the 11 pin connector and it took me months to get it ironed out since there is little documentation.

the 11 pin connector looks like this

1 5 8
2 6 9
3 7 10
4 X 11
(these are the pin numbers, the X is the gap in the connector for the clip, also, this is looking at the male side of the connector looking at the pin side, not the wire side)

I used this wiring diagram for a 91 240 http://brickspeed.net/VolvoDocs/240-..._240__1991.pdf

so, pinout is as follows, I'll include wire color, even though its fairly arbitrary since it had a habit of changing, ever so slightly.

1- blue wire, this supplies switched 12v. without this, you will get no spark, and no fuel pumps. it connects to pin 35 on the ECU, pin 4 of the diagnostic connection, pin 6 of the EZK, and one of the pins in the CA EGR cars. ultimately you want it hooked to pin 15 of the ignition switch. NOTE: you must use an lh2.4 ignition switch for this pinout to be accurate, also, make sure you are referencing the pin numbers on the switch, not on the connector.

2- gray/red wire, this goes to the A/C delay relay.

3- FAT yellow/red wire, the wiring diagram says fuse #6, but you can use any fused switched 12v source.

4- green wire, goes to pin 14 of the ECU and connects to the A/C system.

5- blue/black wire, goes to pin 6 of connector 31 on the instrument cluster. (big round connector)

6- violet wire, goes to pin 34 of instrument cluster, shift indicator?

7- white/pink wire, pin 235 of instrument cluster, check engine light.

8- small yellow/red wire, same location as pin 3. diagram says fuse #6, just find switched 12v.

9- pink wire, not entirely sure where this goes.... best guess is pin 50 of ignition switch, starter circuit.... but I dont have it connected and my car runs

10- red wire, runs from pin 4 of the ECU, and pin 5 of the EZK, and pin 3 of the fuel pump relay, to fuse #6. or just 12v. this powers the ECU/EZK and the fuel pump relay.

11- red wire, same as pin 10.

the 5 wires needed to make it RUN, are pin 1 blue wire, pins 3 and 8 with the yellow/red wires, and pins 10 and 11 with the red wires.


I hope this helps someone, I know it would have been great to know before I suffered through it.
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Old 10-06-2014, 03:38 AM   #50
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Im just going to ad some info from above along with pictures. Some of it is repeated but may help. Im using parts from a 91' 245 LH 2.4 car going into a 1984 245 Diesel chassis.
I am going to use the 2.4 ign switch and put the wires in the correct places. The blue wire in the correct spot will save like 4 wires.

Im doing the conversion to LH 2.4 but using the later 91+ 11 pin connector.

Big red yellow wire goes to the main pump. The connector for it is down by the drivers kick panel. There is a small red yellow that branches off of this wire and goes the the fuse strip for the intank fuel pump.

The second small red yellow wire is for the O2 sensor heater and goes to fuse strip.

There is another small red yellow wire but is not in the 11 pin connector but runs along with it. this is on auto cars and is for the OD relay and plugs into the back of cluster.

2 Red wires are for power and go to the fuse strip.

Pink white wire is for the check engine light and goes to back of cluster.

Red gray wire is for A/C delay relay.

Violet wire comes out of the 11 pin but then has a connector right off it. Its for the upshift indicator to the cluster.

Green wire is for the AC compressor switch in the engine compartment.

Blue Black wire goes to the round plug on back side of cluster and pin number 6. This wire converts the language from the speed sender to the speedo so the ecu can understand it. If you look on the wire diagrams linked above its the plug 31/6. I have to double check but I though the wire also went into the engine compartment but disregard until I make sure. It does go from 11 pin to the cluster for sure though.

Pink wire goes to Term 50 on the ignition switch plug. The wire also ties into the auto trans shift inter lock or neutral start saftey switch deal down by the trans tunnel. Another part of this wire goes to the engine compartment by the firewall for the service connector to turn the motor over.

Blue wire- This is the heart of all the wires so pay attention.
This wire goes to the ignition switch plug term 15R then it branches out to
Speedo plug
Fuse strip- has a connector to slide on.
Ignition coil
also goes to a 4 wire plug by the glove box for I dont know what maybe cruise control? abs? Not sure. -See pic.
From this 4 wire plug a green wire goes to the halfmoon connector pin #3 for abs.

Note on the two ignition switch connector plugs, In the first one I already took out the pink and blue wire terminals.

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