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Old 05-16-2015, 08:43 PM   #51
Chewy
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Holy thread resurrection batman.

Figuring out my 11 pin 91+ LH 2.4 harness to swap my kjet car.
That being said, i think I have most of the pins figured out...(THANK YOU GUYS!!!!) but the red/white? or is it red/grey? (tach vs AC?) It appears more white than grey?

What we came up with when comparing to the 1991 manual.


What do these guys do? I have no AC, a T5 swapped trans, and no OD solenoid... Superflous?


I also have 3 black wires that simply go to a ring terminal up near the 11 pin connector. What are these for?


My understanding is that the BIG red/yellow wire powers the system relay, and the little red/yellow powers the 02 heater. Why are there 3 small red/yellows? They all tie into the same terminal.


Comments in RED for clarity below -
Quote:
Originally Posted by slow240 View Post
.....
the 11 pin connector looks like this

1 5 8
2 6 9
3 7 10
4 X 11
(these are the pin numbers, the X is the gap in the connector for the clip, also, this is looking at the male side of the connector looking at the pin side, not the wire side)

1- blue wire, this supplies switched 12v. without this, you will get no spark, and no fuel pumps. it connects to pin 35 on the ECU, pin 4 of the diagnostic connection, pin 6 of the EZK, and one of the pins in the CA EGR cars. ultimately you want it hooked to pin 15 of the ignition switch. NOTE: you must use an lh2.4 ignition switch for this pinout to be accurate, also, make sure you are referencing the pin numbers on the switch, not on the connector. Hook this up to switched +12v at the fuse box?

2- gray/red wire, this goes to the A/C delay relay. UNUSED - NO AC

3- FAT yellow/red wire, the wiring diagram says fuse #6, but you can use any fused switched 12v source. Hook this up to switched +12v at the fuse box- Ideally where KJET used to power the fuel pump

4- green wire, goes to pin 14 of the ECU and connects to the A/C system. UNUSED - NO AC

5- blue/black wire, goes to pin 6 of connector 31 on the instrument cluster. (big round connector) - Will require a speedo input as well

6- violet wire, goes to pin 34 of instrument cluster, shift indicator? UNUSED - NO SHIFT LIGHT

7- white/pink wire, pin 235 of instrument cluster, check engine light. Got it

8- small yellow/red wire, same location as pin 3. diagram says fuse #6, just find switched 12v. Switched 12V at fuse box. GOT IT

9- pink wire, not entirely sure where this goes.... best guess is pin 50 of ignition switch, starter circuit.... but I dont have it connected and my car runs MY NOTES SAY THIS IS CHECK ENGINE LIGHT?

10- red wire, runs from pin 4 of the ECU, and pin 5 of the EZK, and pin 3 of the fuel pump relay, to fuse #6. or just 12v. this powers the ECU/EZK and the fuel pump relay. ROGER - SWITCHED 12V AT FUSEBOX

11- red wire, same as pin 10. - ROGER - SAME 12V AT FUSE BOX AS PIN 10

the 5 wires needed to make it RUN, are pin 1 blue wire, pins 3 and 8 with the yellow/red wires, and pins 10 and 11 with the red wires.
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Last edited by Chewy; 05-16-2015 at 08:51 PM..
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Old 11-17-2015, 11:38 AM   #52
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I got a chance to get some more recent practice on the 2.4 swap this weekend. It was about the 5th successful install I have done, so I have it down pretty well now. I updated first post again.








Quote:
Originally Posted by D.E View Post
These are the wires I was wondering about. The blue one, the red one and the one I'm holding. They're part of the same branch.


Ok so this weekend I got some more practice. That BLUE wire in the plug you hold is what LH2.4 240's use to POWER UP THE COIL. You can chose to use this plug, OR simply a wire directly to the coil instead. To do it cleanest, you should get a plug to match this one, and add 12v with ignition on and it will power up your coil for you! Red/white is OUT to cluster to make the tach work.

Last edited by ZVOLV; 11-17-2015 at 11:45 AM..
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Old 03-02-2017, 09:40 PM   #53
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Back from the dead. Thinking of doing this on my '81 without swapping the later axle/housing. How high will the car idle w/o the speed signal? 1500 rpm?
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Old 03-02-2017, 10:25 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Wiley View Post
Back from the dead. Thinking of doing this on my '81 without swapping the later axle/housing. How high will the car idle w/o the speed signal? 1500 rpm?
It will bounce back and forth if you use the stock idle air control valve (IAC), but this will only happen after you run it hard and come to a stop. If you cycle the ignition, it will go back to being "normal". It's more annoying than anything.

You can also remove the IAC and use a needle valve in its place, or use the TB from a LH2.2 car which has an integrated idle-speed adjuster with a needle valve. You can also just block the nipple off and set the idle speed with the throttle body adjustment. You will probably need to reset the TPS after each idle adjustment.
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Old 03-03-2017, 02:26 AM   #55
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Interesting. Thanks for the info.
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Old 03-03-2017, 12:04 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by culberro View Post
It will bounce back and forth if you use the stock idle air control valve (IAC), but this will only happen after you run it hard and come to a stop. If you cycle the ignition, it will go back to being "normal". It's more annoying than anything.

You can also remove the IAC and use a needle valve in its place, or use the TB from a LH2.2 car which has an integrated idle-speed adjuster with a needle valve. You can also just block the nipple off and set the idle speed with the throttle body adjustment. You will probably need to reset the TPS after each idle adjustment.
Does the IAC function as it should in other conditions (cold start) without the speed signal? It's just the hunting idle after cruising at high revs, and it will continue until you turn off the car and restart?
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Old 03-03-2017, 12:28 PM   #57
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I'm doing a conversion on an '81 and am finally almost done. Planning to run without the IAC for now. I'll report back if I learn anything of value to you guys.
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Old 03-03-2017, 12:58 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tfrasca View Post
Does the IAC function as it should in other conditions (cold start) without the speed signal? It's just the hunting idle after cruising at high revs, and it will continue until you turn off the car and restart?
Exactly.

When I didn't use an IAC, on cold PNW mornings I had to lightly keep my foot on the accelerator pedal to keep it running and still have a decent "hot" idle speed.
I was using an lh2.2 throttle body until the idle screw ejected itself under full boost pulling onto the freeway. The threads were all mangled, it was living on borrowed time.

Last edited by culberro; 03-03-2017 at 01:04 PM..
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Old 03-03-2017, 01:20 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by culberro View Post
Exactly.

When I didn't use an IAC, on cold PNW mornings I had to lightly keep my foot on the accelerator pedal to keep it running and still have a decent "hot" idle speed.
I was using an lh2.2 throttle body until the idle screw ejected itself under full boost pulling onto the freeway. The threads were all mangled, it was living on borrowed time.
Good to know, thanks. I'll be using a 960 TB, and I'd like to keep the IAC for the cold start. So I guess I'll deal with the goofy idle until I can sort out the rear axle.
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Old 03-05-2017, 04:20 PM   #60
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Ok, I'm starting to wire up my LH 2.4 stuff, into my 142 which previously had no EFI or electric fuel pumps.

-The main LH power wire is connected via its inline fuse to constant 12v at the stud on the starter.

-The coil has switched power.

-I wired up the 4-pin connector on the engine bay side to provide the starter solenoid signal, amp exciter/light, oil pressure dummy light, and coolant temp gauge. All gauges work as they should when the key is turned to ON, and the motor will turn over.

-I'm working on the 9-pin connector inside the car, near the fuel system relay and the ECUs. It's all been pretty well documented, but I have some specific questions. Currently, I just have the red/black hooked to switched 12v, and when I turn on the ignition, the relay will click and provide momentary 12v to the thick red/yellow for the fuel pumps. This is good.

Main questions now are:

Do I need to give the blue/yellow starter wire cranking 12v at the 9 pin connector if I already have cranking 12v at the starter solenoid via the engine bay connector?

Why don't I have a blue/black speed signal wire?

The red/black wire, when given switched 12v, primes the fuel relay. Do I also need switched 12v for the blue wire?
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File Type: png LH_9_Pin.png (29.3 KB, 360 views)
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Old 03-05-2017, 08:20 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tfrasca View Post
Main questions now are:

Do I need to give the blue/yellow starter wire cranking 12v at the 9 pin connector if I already have cranking 12v at the starter solenoid via the engine bay connector?
-I don't think it's needed.

Why don't I have a blue/black speed signal wire?
- It could be a different color. Just trace it from the correct pin on the ECU connector.

The red/black wire, when given switched 12v, primes the fuel relay. Do I also need switched 12v for the blue wire?
-The blue wire needs to have power when the key is on and while cranking.
See above.
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Old 03-05-2017, 10:02 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by culberro View Post
See above.
Great, thanks. I guess I just need to make sure that the blue wire isn't the speed signal in my case, but other than that, I think I've got it.
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Old 03-11-2017, 01:20 PM   #63
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I'm glad this thread is still alive. If anybody has questions you can PM me and I wl do my best to help.


Peace!
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Old 03-27-2017, 12:06 PM   #64
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Figured I'd share my experience getting 2.4 going on my 140 (which obviously had no ECU/fuel pump wiring before this swap). The cool thing is that my 140 ignition switch has the same pinout as the 2.4 switch, it seems.

Turns out I was using am '89 harness with a 9-pin connector by the computers. The blue wire that everyone talks about to power the system relay is actually red/black on an 89 harness. (still pin 35 on the ECU). This gets plugged into pin 15 on the ignition switch for switched/cranking power.

I ran the thicker red/yellow wire from that connector to an empty spot on my 140 fuse block. I wired my fuel pump to the other side of this fuse. I also connected the thinner red/yellow wire to the other side of this fuse for the O2 heater. This mimics the stock set up, based on the diagrams. Now the system relay primes the fuel pumps and O2, then powers them when cranking/running.

The blue/yellow wire from the 9-pin connector gets input that the starter is moving. The wiring to actually activate the starter is done through the gray connector on the engine side of the firewall. I connected the 9-pin blue/yellow to pin 50 of the ignition switch (power while cranking).

At this point, I don't have an intake manifold on the car, but i have checked all the LH systems. I have spark, fuel coming out of the line when priming and cranking, and doing the Function 1 test on pins 2 and 6 of the diagnostic unit shows me 1-1-1 codes, indicating that all is in order.

Thanks for the help, everybody.
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Old 04-10-2017, 11:25 AM   #65
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I have a question regarding this conversion, how does the sensor wheel mount with a manual trans?
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Old 04-10-2017, 12:22 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bartman1234 View Post
I have a question regarding this conversion, how does the sensor wheel mount with a manual trans?
The crank position sensor? It reads the 60-2 pattern that is machined into the edge of an LH2.4 flywheel. Or, a few vendors offer lighter LH2.2 flat flywheels with the pattern machined into them.
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Old 04-10-2017, 01:21 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tfrasca View Post
Figured I'd share my experience getting 2.4 going on my 140 (which obviously had no ECU/fuel pump wiring before this swap). The cool thing is that my 140 ignition switch has the same pinout as the 2.4 switch, it seems.

Turns out I was using am '89 harness with a 9-pin connector by the computers. The blue wire that everyone talks about to power the system relay is actually red/black on an 89 harness. (still pin 35 on the ECU). This gets plugged into pin 15 on the ignition switch for switched/cranking power.

I ran the thicker red/yellow wire from that connector to an empty spot on my 140 fuse block. I wired my fuel pump to the other side of this fuse. I also connected the thinner red/yellow wire to the other side of this fuse for the O2 heater. This mimics the stock set up, based on the diagrams. Now the system relay primes the fuel pumps and O2, then powers them when cranking/running.

The blue/yellow wire from the 9-pin connector gets input that the starter is moving. The wiring to actually activate the starter is done through the gray connector on the engine side of the firewall. I connected the 9-pin blue/yellow to pin 50 of the ignition switch (power while cranking).

At this point, I don't have an intake manifold on the car, but i have checked all the LH systems. I have spark, fuel coming out of the line when priming and cranking, and doing the Function 1 test on pins 2 and 6 of the diagnostic unit shows me 1-1-1 codes, indicating that all is in order.

Thanks for the help, everybody.
Mine is up and running now, and for what it's worth, your description above is essentially what we did on my '81 242 (originally a non-turbo DL with K-Jet). Thick red/yellow now runs to the non-fused side of Fuse 5, for the in-tank fuel pump. My harness has the black/red wire so is an early LH2.4 harness too apparently. The yellow/blue wire for cranking signal is tapped into the park switch circuit that isn't used on manual cars, but is an artifact of the auto option, and seems to be in every wiring harness.
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Old 04-10-2017, 02:00 PM   #68
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Thanks Tfrasca, I am using an automatic donor car and it has a thin toothed ring mounted to the crank. I am trying to install on 89 m47.
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Old 04-10-2017, 02:51 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bartman1234 View Post
Thanks Tfrasca, I am using an automatic donor car and it has a thin toothed ring mounted to the crank. I am trying to install on 89 m47.
As far as I know, you'll need a flywheel with the slots machined into it.
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Old 07-31-2017, 11:42 AM   #70
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Thanks for the guide. Sucks that photobucket ruined half of the pictures.
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Old 07-31-2017, 08:45 PM   #71
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You can get around the Photobucket issue. The best is to install a Chrome plugin called "photobucket embed fix", but if you don't want to or can't run Chrome, just right-click on the photo and click "open image in new tab" (or similar).
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Old 08-24-2017, 10:52 PM   #72
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Thanks for all the info.
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Old 08-27-2017, 08:09 PM   #73
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This probably won't mean anything to anyone but I've got two wires going to my 940 ecu connector that I can't identify. (because the loom is no longer a part of the car) One pink and one white/green. The greenbook diagram doesn't show either colours as far as I can see. Any ideas?
Edit; Realised I can probably narrow it down by noting which pins are accounted for by all the other wires.

Last edited by Pete.M; 08-27-2017 at 08:16 PM..
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Old 08-27-2017, 08:16 PM   #74
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You have the plug right? What pin numbers are each of those wires going to?
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Old 08-28-2017, 11:19 AM   #75
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The pinout numbering is what has been confusing me.

I was reading the connector pinout on the page below incorrectly. If you are looking directly at the connector (not the ECU) then you need to reverse that numbering convention. That took me way too long to figure out
http://ipdown.net/jetronic.info/tiki...s+and+Diagrams

I think I can make sense of it now. Those two wires I was confused about are not needed in my application - one is for auto trans and one for DLC connector.
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