Ignition Lock Issue NOW WITH EXCITING NEWS

The current ignition lock thread reminded me to ask about this.

My wheel won't lock when the key is out - and on occasion when putting the key in the ignition itself remains locked. A few minutes of jiggling (the key not me) and pulling the key in and out resolves the issue.

Turn signal no longer goes off when turn is completed, may or may not be related.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks!

It will keep getting worse, and will eventually strand you. They all wear out and have to be replaced. I've seen ones where a "locksmith" tried to open it and grind on/remove parts inside to make it stop jamming, but it doesn't work and usually causes other problems. Column lock ordered from the dealer takes about a week to get, and you have to bring proof of ownership.

I cut thin slots in the heads of the security bolts with a thin cutoff wheel and while they are still hot, break them loose and turn them out with a short, wide screwdriver. Most of them have loc-tite on the threads, so getting them hot is important. Otherwise you have to grind or drill them out which is a pain, makes a mess, and you have to be careful not to damage the top bracket since it is re-used.

I have replaced probably 100 of them, but haven't had one where the steering lock wouldn't engage like you described. I have seen a few that were ignored for a long time that wouldn't unlock the wheel in position one, which is scary if it had gotten bad enough to do that in position two while someone was driving it.

Also haven't seen a turn signal switch that won't cancel. As long as something is not loose, I would suspect a worn/damaged switch. The contacts on those eventually get bad too, and the signals will stop working. If someone does the lock, they will have to remove the turn switch anyways and could inspect/replace it at the same time.

This is assuming you have the steel Volvo key, the aftermarket brass ones never seem to fit right and can keep the lock from turning.

Really appreciate the response.

Is that something that is worth trying on my own or just say screw it and fork over the $$$ for the dealer to do it? Any reprogramming required, I know that the security system on the C70 convertible is ridiculous (even replacing the rear view mirror will screw everything up) so I'd imagine that the column lock has to be integrated in some way.

I'm guessing you wouldn't recommend this:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/pxJE9rDZW80" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>



Thanks again.

J

So my issue continued right along without the vehicle actually reaching a total no-start status. But it was still a nuisance that I had to deal with a couple times a week or so - having to jiggle the key for a few minutes to get the lock to release.

Was looking for instructions on an easy way to change the lock cylinder (Wennstroma's description sounded a bit beyond me - though it was appreciated) and I ran across this:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ehqc3RMP0dg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Tried it and the issue has gone away. Maybe it will come back but that seemed to resolve whatever was going on.

I'll update this if things change.

You want a dry lubricant, not oil. Over time, oil will collect dirt and gum up again. @Wallyworld:

All I know is it worked. No complaints.

But I take your point.

Not so exciting anymore - it's back to seizing up.

Ignore me.

Bready said:

Not so exciting anymore - it's back to seizing up.

Ignore me.

Click to expand...

Can't ignore mods.

Lando said:

Can't ignore mods.

Click to expand...

^that made laugh

Well at least you know/think that it is a lubrication type issue and that its just the little nubbins that read your key that are the problem. What I would do is get some electric contact cleaner or something like that, stick the straw in there and hose it real good; hopefully that cleans the nubbins and frees up the junk holding them up. Then get the lock-eaze stuff or something similar and hose it down with that. Crossing your fingers cant hurt either.

Lock-Ease might not work now because you have sticky, viscus oil in there now. You might be able to remove the plastic surrounds, wrap the lock with a towel, and shoot some electrical contact spray cleaner in there using the red straw extension included.

Unfortunately, now that you have oil in there, you have a problem...

Dave Riedle

My 940 wagon ign switch would not allow the key in sometimes. Locksmith could not figure it out. Turns out po had sent so much dry lock stuff into it that the little gates at the key slot were not opening. So I'm not sure dry is the answer.

Best way to fix this: Get a nice can of electrical contact cleaner, attach supplied red tube, insert phallic-shaped component into the lock assembly and spray away(might want to remove plastic; some ECC degrades/eats plastic) until the run off is clean. Blow out with a light spray of compressed air/canned air, repeat application of ECC. Repeat application of compressed air/canned air until components are nice and dry and free of residue. Finally attach phallic component to the lock-ease, insert tube into lock cylinder as far as it will go and spray while pulling tube out(we all should know how to pull out, right?). Insert key and work cylinder. If it cycles smoothly, reassemble and move out. If not, spray some more Lock-Ease like the first time. Now reassemble. Done.