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YoshiFab VW 1,9TDi Belt Tensionier ALternative

It sounds like it is over tensioned for some reason. The only tensioners I have ever seen break are the URO brand. IF you are snapping the adjuster off an SKF something is very wrong. There are a few of these that I know of that have been using the original tensioner since I came out with this setup. Its the same stock tensioner I have put 100k on with my tdi.

I would suggest looking at your belt tension. perhaps give the belt the twist test instead of going strictly off the tension marks. Usually a belt tracking problem is due to over tension. If you are deforming the plastic and breaking adjusters it all points to too much tension.

I don't make it on tb too much but I stand behind my products. Do not hesitate to call or email with any issue with any of my products.
 
sdturbo said:
It sounds like it is over tensioned for some reason. The only tensioners I have ever seen break are the URO brand. IF you are snapping the adjuster off an SKF something is very wrong. There are a few of these that I know of that have been using the original tensioner since I came out with this setup. Its the same stock tensioner I have put 100k on with my tdi.

I would suggest looking at your belt tension. perhaps give the belt the twist test instead of going strictly off the tension marks. Usually a belt tracking problem is due to over tension. If you are deforming the plastic and breaking adjusters it all points to too much tension.

I don't make it on tb too much but I stand behind my products. Do not hesitate to call or email with any issue with any of my products.
Click to expand...

I think that maybe the lack of belt covers isn't helping much either in my case. It does get pretty dirty there sometimes.
 
yeah, right URO was the brand which cracked the inner cast excenter thingy. Thanks for your advice.. i dont think it is overtensioned cause the belt was nicely twisting between my fingers.. but.. if you talk about tension marks.. there are no on mine??

I poke some slim pliers into the holes and twisted it until it felt right.. it is not the first timing belt i've done..

But anyway.. i have the tensioner in front of me right now, and i can tweak it in my hand and the overmolded runner makes noises while it deforms on the bearing.. it is pretty much that noise which gets really loud under heat i would bet it is also slipping over the bearing sometimes..
 
I can see the marks in the picture you posted, you do have them.

0900c152801bff9f.gif


Also only over mold I have seen slip was on a damaged pulley, the plastic was cracked in shipping.

The identifier for the URO pulley was the black seal on the bearing. Is that supposedly an SKF in the pictures? Where did it come from?
 
The tensioner in that pics is the one which came with your kit... it broke the first time i tightened the bolt.. it never ran.

Ha! Those are the tensioning marks.. you wouldnt believe... ;) Thx for the advice. But again.. the tension was "right"
 
so.. the tensioner needs to be tensioned clockwise? it only has dampening funtion when i tighten it antoclockwise.. otherwise it is not moving/acting at all?

Also it seems to be spaced out a little too far cause the bels rubs against the inner lip? have you had this problem on any of your setups? the bolt is straight and the whole plate is mounted correctly.. ??
 
MadDog_945 said:
so.. the tensioner needs to be tensioned clockwise? it only has dampening funtion when i tighten it antoclockwise.. otherwise it is not moving/acting at all?

Also it seems to be spaced out a little too far cause the bels rubs against the inner lip? have you had this problem on any of your setups? the bolt is straight and the whole plate is mounted correctly.. ??
Click to expand...

Mine isn't rubbing the belt... And yes the tension adjustment is clockwise.
 
Yeah.. my tensioner is fawked.. when it gets warm it also rassles like hell when you put your ear to it with a screwdriver.

So it is not only the runner sqeaking..
 
So, I've ordered a new tensioner from SKF, came out of the box with a black sealing ring and.. oh wonder.. made in canuckistan by Litens :grrr: But it's the same principle as the one with brown sealing.. so not the one which broke in the beginning.

Anyway.. two things: The belt seems to rub/run (in anyway pretty damn close to) on the inner lid from the tensioner pulley as before. So it must be out of alignment in any way. I am using the KLRacing crankgear but i cant see how this could be the problem(It has the same depth of the genuine gear) On the crankgear itself the belt runs on the outer lid and has some space (about 1,5mm to the inner lid)

The tensioner itself is tensioned clockwise and does not dampen anything.. it only dampens (moves and wobbles with the belt running over it)when tightened anticlockwise ???!

Oh.. and a third thing

In comparison to the old Litens gear the newone has a rocksolid plastique runner where the old one wobbles on the bearing. This is where the squeaky noises must have came from. that gear only has 250kms on it but yeah.. 5 or 6 years old.. i book this under things that are just because :roll:


So.. one question left.. what in the hell goes wrong here with my cambelt stuff?!
 
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MadDog_945 said:
So, I've ordered a new tensioner from SKF, came out of the box with a black sealing ring and.. oh wonder.. made in canuckistan by Litens :grrr: But it's the same principle as the one with brown sealing.. so not the one which broke in the beginning.

Anyway.. two things: The belt seems to rub/run (in anyway pretty damn close to) on the inner lid from the tensioner pulley as before. So it must be out of alignment in any way. I am using the KLRacing crankgear but i cant see how this could be the problem(It has the same thickness of the genuine gear) On the crankgear itself the belt runs on the outer lid and has some space (about 1,5mm to the inner lid)

The tensioner itself is tensioned clockwise and does not dampen anything.. it only dampens (moves and wobbles with the belt running over it)when tightened anticlockwise ???!

Oh.. and a third thing

In comparison to the old Litens gear the newone has a rocksolid plastique runner where the old one wobbles on the bearing. This is where the squeaky noises must have came from. that gear only has 250kms on it but yeah.. 5 or 6 years old.. i book this under things that are just because :roll:


So.. one question left.. what in the hell goes wrong here with my cambelt stuff?!
Click to expand...


The metal plate that bolts to the head to which the tensioner is fixed is bolted flushed to the head?
 
There you go.. I want to measure the gap with a caliper but couldn't find a way to fit it in there and get a correct measurement.

Taken over the cam pulleys:

dTzq9Qj.jpg



Taken from the driver's side:

PAtsvB7.jpg


front at an angle:

CWY7oR8.jpg


Another one over the cam pulleys... You can see that the belt isn't rubbing on the inner edge of the tensioner at all:

UFWAb0k.jpg
 
Thx for sharing! :) Could you please make another photo of your tensioner level to the ground and one level to the block surface? That would make things more clear. Your belt also rides more in the middle of the plastique runner. I will take some pics of my config to show what concerns me. Oh! And while youre at it.. could you please make a pic at Crank TDC on what position you camgears are pointing to? One pic level to ground and one again level to blocksurface? i believe all my timing is off half a tooth or these little pins in the valvecover dont align **** when looking at them how you supposed to look at them ;)
 
poulrais said:
And did you reinstall the 2 round metal plates (shims, guides, whatever) on both sides of the crank gear?
Click to expand...

For sure i installed both of the chamfered guidingplates :)

I will take some pics after work, so we can speak about the same.

@Josh, yep you're right, but my Crankgear with its little slit in it points directly on the frontplates TDC marking while the cams seem to be off half a tooth to the negative. will take a pic also from that situation wheter it hasnt got anything to do with this, but hey.. 2 flies, one clap ;) Two things to this: I am using KLRacings cams and their crankgear. Maybe they fawked something up with the alignment marks.. but.. meh.. i dont know. At least as for the Crankgear the TDC mark is checked through the sparkplug holes. Also many thanks for making things clear via PM.


Another thought was that maybe the belt on a AFN (Golf 3 TDi, where the tensioner comes off) runs anticlockwise which could have explained the "funny" behaviour of the tensioner when tightened "backwards" but nope... https://youtu.be/o5NnsgrhuBI?t=1m20s shows it pretty good its running clockwise ;) I dont get it anyway.. in this case the tensioner does not have any dampening function and its like a fixed excenter tensioner like the one Jerry mentioned on page 1. The spring mechanims only seems to work when installed "backwards" i can make a video of that when you like ;)
 
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No problem. We have been selling most of these parts for close to a decade now. If there are problems they are either solved or I quit selling the stuff. Feel free to contact me through the website contacts with any questions about my parts. TDI and b230 spin the same direction... I
 
hey.. i milled 1mm off that mounting surface.. now the belt runs against the outer lip :D so i will turn a 0.5mm spacer and see how that works..
 
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