Fuel+Spark= No spark?? Please Help!!

I'm not sure whats going on with this thing.
1988 volvo 245 b230f auto lh 2.2
Any input would be GREATLY appreciated.
Car Is turning over, but wont run.

Background
Daily driver. Usually runs just fine.
The starter died, so I replaced that. (PITA to get the seized top bolt. ended up drilling it out.)
After getting the new starter in, I started it and it ran a little rough. I figured it was just from sitting for a few days. No real thought put into it until I started it to drive it and it just turned over with no signs of starting.


NO START
-Checked 25AMP fuse. (It's good)
-checked Fuel pump fuses (Good)
-Newer fuel Pumps and filter
-Jumped fuses 4 and 6. pumps turn on.
-Fuel Is making it to the cylinders (spark plugs wet) Haven't checked pressure
-New plugs + Wires
-Its getting spark
-Tried starting with Maf Unplugged
-Checked Timing marks and they are fine
-checked to make sure coolant temp sensor, and maf are plugged in
-Not flooded

Is there any wires that I could've knocked loose that aren't obvious?
I seem to have everything it needs to make it run. Didn't rotate distributor at all Spark+ air + fuel
Am I missing anything?
Could it be the ecu?
Heres a similar situation that happened to me last year. Not sure what the solution really was that time. I believe it was flooding from so many no starts with misplaced wires.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=337673

Also heres a few links that are always helpful.
http://www.stepbystepvolvo.com/Reso...orums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=316437

does the tach move when you crank it? if not the crank position sensor (or it's wires) may be the culprit

Check the huge wire that runs from the starter under the intake manifold by the IACV, inbetween the accessories on the intake side of the motor, around the front of the motor, and over to the alternator.

These wires are notoriously corroded on 240's. Either the ground wire (like on my 87 which almost burned it to the ground) or the big power wire (like on my 93 which caused funny starter issues)

It's a fairly simple fix in... get new 4/6 gauge (?) wire and splice in your repairs.

oifish said:

does the tach move when you crank it? if not the crank position sensor (or it's wires) may be the culprit

Click to expand...

The 88 doesn't have a CPS. Correct?

EivlEvo said:

Check the huge wire that runs from the starter under the intake manifold by the IACV, inbetween the accessories on the intake side of the motor, around the front of the motor, and over to the alternator.

These wires are notoriously corroded on 240's. Either the ground wire (like on my 87 which almost burned it to the ground) or the big power wire (like on my 93 which caused funny starter issues)

It's a fairly simple fix in... get new 4/6 gauge (?) wire and splice in your repairs.

Click to expand...

The Starter works fine since I replaced it. Or were you saying that could be a culprit still?

Gooder said:

The Starter works fine since I replaced it. Or were you saying that could be a culprit still?

Click to expand...

No the WIRE man. Go look at the WIRE. Specifically just behind the alternator.

This would've been disturbed when you were yutzing about with your starter and ultimately may just be grounding out something else.

Hang on I'll find a pic.

This is from my car last weekend.



This comes off the starter and goes forward between the PS/AC and the block then heads across the front of the block to the alternator. There is also a large ground strap there that often looks very similar to this but with corrosion.

This is the alternator side.

Of the 2 240's I've owned. This is the second one this has been an issue on. One 87 (expected because LOL wiring harness quality) and this 93 which was NOT expected. I came out one day and my oil light was just on and I knew right away that this was gonna be the dang issue.

Be careful when you go feeling around to not get zapped.



Other odd issues that occurred on the 93. I was parallel parking one day and the car stalled while I was reversing in (up hill). I didn't think I let the RPMs drop too much but thought nothing of it. Then, I went to start the car and the starter just did nothing. No noise. No anything at all. All the lights and electricity were working though. Odd. So I just rolled it down the hill and bump started it. Fired up. No issues from there until the oil light.

In my 87 I was getting odd dash lights fading in. BARELY visible unless at night and only under certain conditions. Seemed to get brighter with revving. Then my car lit on fire. It was rad.

I'm post whoring rn.

If you click around on Dave's page you'll get a good idea of what I'm on about.

http://www.240turbo.com/volvoharnesses.html

Thanks for the help. I'll Dig into that and see if anythings going on with that. Hate to be a pain, but I can't see those photos. Can anyone else?

EivlEvo said:

This is the alternator side.

Click to expand...

Odd... they're in my public album...





How about now?

If they don't work just PM me.

Click my sig.

Does it run on ether?

Test light to coil negative to ground. STEADY blinking when cranking.

Weak point on these is the hall sensor. They can be failing and cause an ERRATIC spark, but a no start.

Do the basic tests in my sig. Make sure to clear flood first. Unplug the injectors, pull plugs, clear flood, try ether.

ZVOLV said:

Click my sig.

Does it run on ether?

Test light to coil negative to ground. STEADY blinking when cranking.

Weak point on these is the hall sensor. They can be failing and cause an ERRATIC spark, but a no start.

Do the basic tests in my sig. Make sure to clear flood first. Unplug the injectors, pull plugs, clear flood, try ether.

Click to expand...

No Start with Starting Fluid. I Suspected the Hall sensor, but didn't realize it would still spark. I'll test it and see! Thanks for the help!

No start on starting fluid means:

1. You did it wrong
2. Mechanical problem like compression
3. No spark, erratic spark, or mistimed spark.

Have you done the test light to coil ground test? Buy one for $5. It's one of the most basic, but strong tools in the arsenal.

Inspect the hall sensor on the back of the head. It puts out a 5v square wave signal to the EZK box, which sends a 5v square wave to the powerstage which acts as a solid state relay that sends the ground pulses to the coil.

Here is a hall effect sesnor waveform on a Nissan Pathfinder:

I just wanted to know if my pics worked?

That's why oil leaks should be fixed.