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"Brick in a box" - (1991) 245 "stealth" project car

[*]The Volvo 240 Fuse box is a TRAVESTY
[/LIST]


I thought so too but then went to replace one on a P80 chasis :omg::wtf::omg:

hmm not too bad
IMG_20150420_090912260_zpsrmrdesto.jpg


WHAT THE ****
IMG_20150420_090918093_zpsmaom2l8t.jpg



/end thread jack

keep the updates coming, car looks great

headliner is easy. Just take your time. I practiced at a JY first . They tend to rip around the c-d pillar if not careful
 
While that looks like the things nightmares are made out of, the quality of the connections and the fuses are leaps and bounds beyond the 240 arrangment. and I'm sure the back side looks equally cluster fuc*ed :lol:

In any event, I've come to the conclusion that whoever designed the 240 ebrake needs to be flogged. What a a pain! and that was just getting them off. I only did once side, so there's a chance I can use the other as a reference and actually get new ebrake shoes on.

I think I figured out why my ebrake wasn't working...
20150426_202210.jpg
 
Well, I finished getting the brakes off, and removing the axles so I could work on the rear TABs. No Volvo tool, no problem...
20150426_191036.jpg

2" hole saw on the "high torque" setting and the old rubber was out in about 5 min. Going from inside --> outside wasn't a problem, but going outside to inside (...unless you have a hole saw bit 4" deep) required a little creativity
20150427_190504.jpg


10 min of wire wheeling later....
20150506_184219.jpg

The inside busing slid in easily, but the outside bushing was a little snug, so I tossed them in the freezer, while I started g80 prep. But first, a side by side comparison of a regular 240 axle and one from a 93 wagon w/ g80. You can see why you would need to trim a bit off if you were re-using the standard shaft
20150506_180131.jpg

Now, for the unit itself, Here it is next to the open, for comparison:
20150507_190607.jpg

I just did the standard tone ring trim job, cut 3 leave one, repeat until there are 12 left....or your dremel runs out of battery :rofl:
20150510_182834.jpg

Even though the ring gear was already a 3.73, I swapped it so it would match the pinion already in the axle. (G80 right, open diff left)
20150510_185624.jpg

Snazzy aluminum cover ... shame they covered it in black paint. Also a shame it requires longer bolts due to the thicker flange, since I couldn't seem to find them. Off to the hardware store I suppose
20150507_190616.jpg

20150510_202908.jpg

Tapped these into place before I called it a night
20150503_213034.jpg
 
Good thing you pulled that axle shaft when you saw it. That's the first 93 I have seen in a long time at the yard.
Looking good homie. Keep up the good work.
 
Good thing you pulled that axle shaft when you saw it. That's the first 93 I have seen in a long time at the yard.
Looking good homie. Keep up the good work.

Funny thing is, I actually got the axle I have in Tampa months back when I got that rear wagon glass out of a light blue 93' 245. So the g80 ready axle is still in the yard.


In other news I ordered my turbo rebuild kit from Gpop shop this afternnon, Decisions, decisons.....
20150512_211346.jpg
 
Oh, the Holset WILL be making it's appearance, however it requires custom downpipe, injectors too large for LH, Completely revised intake solution, better than stock IC, and a T5 swap.

While I have most of those things, the clutch portion of the T5 swap remains elusive, and I would rather get the car back on the road to enjoy (this auto situation is killing my soul :grrr:)

Speaking of which Let's start a list of what it will take to get back on the road:

  • New MC
  • New rear calipers
  • New rear rotors
  • SS braided lines
  • New performance ceramic pads all around
  • New parking brake pads
  • Bilstein HD's
  • Full length rear springs
  • Re-clock steering shaft
  • Rebuild Garret T3/ RX-7 hybrid turbo
  • Port wastegate opening
  • Port 90+ Manifold
  • Install Sabb 370cc injectors
  • Swap in s80 t5 in-tank lift pump
  • Clean Intake piping
  • Throw 13c in the garbage
  • Wire up gages
 
Oh, the Holset WILL be making it's appearance, however it requires custom downpipe, injectors too large for LH, Completely revised intake solution, better than stock IC, and a T5 swap.

While I have most of those things, the clutch portion of the T5 swap remains elusive, and I would rather get the car back on the road to enjoy (this auto situation is killing my soul :grrr:)

Speaking of which Let's start a list of what it will take to get back on the road:

  • New MC
  • New rear calipers
  • New rear rotors
  • SS braided lines
  • New performance ceramic pads all around
  • New parking brake pads
  • Bilstein HD's
  • Full length rear springs
  • Re-clock steering shaft
  • Rebuild Garret T3/ RX-7 hybrid turbo
  • Port wastegate opening
  • Port 90+ Manifold
  • Install Sabb 370cc injectors
  • Swap in s80 t5 in-tank lift pump
  • Clean Intake piping
  • Throw 13c in the garbage
  • Wire up gages
  • Drink lots of beer

Fixed your list!
 
S80 Turbo fuel pump

  • New MC
  • New rear calipers
  • New rear rotors
  • SS braided lines
  • New performance ceramic pads all around
  • New parking brake pads
  • <strike>Bilstein HD's </strike>
  • Full length rear springs
  • Re-clock steering shaft
  • Rebuild Garret T3/ RX-7 hybrid turbo
  • Port wastegate opening
  • Port 90+ Manifold
  • Install Sabb 370cc injectors
  • <strike>Swap in s80 t5 in-tank lift pump</strike>
  • Clean Intake piping
  • Throw 13c in the garbage
  • Wire up gages
  • <strike>drink lots of beer</strike>
  • Drink a great beer

Since I didn't know the condition of the in-tank pump, and I do get some rather strange hiccups when the tank is at or below 1/4 I figured I might as well replace the pump. However, since Volvo makes it a minor PITA to do so, I figured I might as well upgrade, so I won't have to go back in there again :nod:
20150516_204443.jpg

For a company all about "safety" you'd think they'd come up with a gas tank sealing solution the didn't necessitate spinning a metal ring using a hammer and a chisel....:lol:

The pump that will be used is the Bosch 0 580 454 023 found in the turbo S80 (T5 and T6). Those cars use a dual pump, reservoir setup where the 023 serves as the lift pump, and it's big brother, the 022 serves as the main pump. The information I've been able to find lists the 023 @ 70 lph @ 3 bar. I haven't been able to find decent specs for the 022, but I'm considering using that later on to feed an 044 main pump.

20150517_162210.jpg

Out with the old, and in with the new, that busted sock was quite pitiful as well.

I only needed to sand down the ridges inside the pump holder with a dremmel to get it to slide in, the interference fit is even better than the original pump now. The pickup tube need to be shortened by a little over an inch since I wanted to re-use the stock flex hose (which was in surprisingly great shape). Also worth noting is that the S80 turbo pumps have a molded black plastic hose permanently attached, which as to be cut off. I could have trimmed it lower, but wanted the wider lip at the top to secure the flext hose.
20150517_171625.jpg


All buttoned up. The S80 pumps even come with a snazzy connector like all the after market pumps, so I figured I'd make use of it .
20150517_184329.jpg


And the final step before install, if you're like me and would rather just do things once.....
20150517_190341.jpg
 
  • New MC
  • Replace proportioning vales with brake distribution block
  • <strike>Rebuild front calipers </strike>
  • <strike>New rear calipers</strike>
  • <strike>New rear rotors</strike>
  • <strike>SS braided lines</strike>
  • <strike>New performance ceramic pads all around</strike>
  • <strike>New parking brake pads</strike>
  • <strike>Bilstein HD's </strike>
  • Full length rear springs
  • Re-clock steering shaft
  • Rebuild Garret T3/ RX-7 hybrid turbo
  • Port wastegate opening
  • Port 90+ Manifold
  • Install Sabb 370cc injectors
  • <strike>Swap in s80 t5 in-tank lift pump</strike>
  • Clean Intake piping
  • Throw 13c in the garbage
  • Wire up gages
  • <strike>drink lots of beer</strike>
  • Drink a great beer


Fun with brakes! When I removed the parking brake assembly I could have sworn they were designed by the devil. However, after figuring out how it worked and how to reinstall it, it's really not that bad
20150522_171000.jpg


New rotors, and calipers, always the right answer
20150523_125108.jpg


It's good to have a friend with a sandblaster....
20150523_233813.jpg

One thing that's nice about new parts is new hardware. I really had to fight these brake pad pins to get them out, so to avoid having to do so in the future I took them down a bit with the trusty grinder and hit them with some high temp paint while still warm.
20150524_153024.jpg
 
Last edited:
  • <strike>New MC</strike>
  • <strike>Replace proportioning vales with brake distribution block</strike>
  • <strike>Rebuild front calipers </strike>
  • <strike>New rear calipers</strike>
  • <strike>New rear rotors</strike>
  • <strike>SS braided lines</strike>
  • <strike>New performance ceramic pads all around</strike>
  • <strike>New parking brake pads</strike>
  • <strike>Bilstein HD's </strike>
  • Full length rear springs
  • <strike>Re-clock steering shaft</strike>
  • <strike>Swap pedal assembly</strike>
  • Rebuild Garret T3/ RX-7 hybrid turbo
  • Port wastegate opening
  • Port 90+ Manifold
  • <strike>Install Sabb 370cc injectors</strike>
  • <strike>Swap in s80 t5 in-tank lift pump</strike>
  • Clean Intake piping
  • Throw 13c in the garbage
  • Wire up gages
  • <strike>drink lots of beer</strike>
  • Drink a great beer

So, the brakes are mostly done, unfortunately I had a minor setback when a bleed screw (who rebuild's calipers with 1/4" bleed screws anyway? :grrr:) snapped off in one of the front calipers. THEN the extractor broke off in the bleed screw (not a surprise since that's all they ever do is break and make things worse) So I just said F--- it and got another caliper. Unfortunately I was all out of paint , and they didn't have the same exact color, so I pulled all the calipers so they would match ( and added a coat of clear this time around)

After all that fun, I worked on getting the lines hooked up. Eliminating the leaky, bulky rear proportioning valves was one of the things I was most looking forward to when I started on the brakes. Unfortunately there was no way to use the existing mounting stud for the proportioning valve bracket, but nothing a a self-tapping screw can't fix
20150610_222709.jpg


While I was waiting for the calipers to dry, I (reluctantly; those nuts are a real pain to get to) removed the brake booster. This facilitated adjusting the steering linkage to cure the highly annoying off-center steering wheel I've endured the past 10,000 miles. Maybe someone can explain why they used such a fine spline shaft, making it a pain to get it just right, the would would have been a better place if they used like a 10 or 15 spline shaft, then it would be obvious upon re-assembly if something was amiss.

20150528_190601.jpg


After steering was handled it was time to downgrade the clutch. I've only got one complete hydro setup, and that will go in the car with a t5 so I had to dust off some cable crap to install, figured I'd sand it down and give it a re-spray in the process.
20150601_185927.jpg


Next was the injectors, :omg:
So here's something I didn't realize. The 850 turbo "orange top" injectors every advocates for resistor pack -free T+ conversions are not a good choice. Why? you may ask, well, that's because they flow 310cc........at like 4 bar. At 3 bar, they are well into the 2XXcc range. I'm quite curious if that was the reason for the high rpm stumble I used to get ocassionallly in 3rd /4th/and 5th gear?

In any event, I found some suitable (for my current goals) replacenents. Saab 360cc injectors. They came on a 9000turbo iirc and in addition to actually supplying a reasonable amount of fuel, have a 4 nozzle cap, which should atomize fuel a little better.
20150530_151228.jpg


Finally, once all the brakes lines where attached, and calipers bolted down, I re-installed the booster, and installed the MC. I've never been a fan of "bench bleeding" as it creates unnecessary messes, and the fittings they supply are always crap. So I grabbed a set of lines from a 740 ABS unit at the junk yard and made my own MC bleed setup.
20150610_224151.jpg


Now I just have to wait for a friend to help bleed the brakes.....
 
Sharingan where in jax are you? I'm picking up a 245 from a friend this weekend in hopes of turning it into a daily driver.
 
thats a brilliant idea with the MC bleed.
Thanks!
Buy some speed bleeder screws from speedbleeder.com

http://speedbleeder.com/

I run them on my cars and it's much easier to do them.
Hmmm....I'll CERTAINLY be getting some for the other wagon and the RX-7, but I've already connected the brake lines and it's currently gravity bleeding. Plus the stock "20 bleed screw" configuration could get a bit pricey :lol:
very nifty
Don't get any ideas, still need you to bleed these brakes.
Sharingan where in jax are you? I'm picking up a 245 from a friend this weekend in hopes of turning it into a daily driver.
Awesome! does it drive? I'm in the southside area. We need to get the Volvo Jax people together.
 
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