- <strike>New MC</strike>
- <strike>Replace proportioning vales with brake distribution block</strike>
- <strike>Rebuild front calipers </strike>
- <strike>New rear calipers</strike>
- <strike>New rear rotors</strike>
- <strike>SS braided lines</strike>
- <strike>New performance ceramic pads all around</strike>
- <strike>New parking brake pads</strike>
- <strike>Bilstein HD's </strike>
- Full length rear springs
- <strike>Re-clock steering shaft</strike>
- <strike>Swap pedal assembly</strike>
- Rebuild Garret T3/ RX-7 hybrid turbo
- Port wastegate opening
- Port 90+ Manifold
- <strike>Install Sabb 370cc injectors</strike>
- <strike>Swap in s80 t5 in-tank lift pump</strike>
- Clean Intake piping
- Throw 13c in the garbage
- Wire up gages
- <strike>drink lots of beer</strike>
- Drink a great beer
So, the brakes are mostly done, unfortunately I had a minor setback when a bleed screw (who rebuild's calipers with 1/4" bleed screws anyway?
) snapped off in one of the front calipers. THEN the extractor broke off in the bleed screw (not a surprise since that's all they ever do is break and make things worse) So I just said F--- it and got another caliper. Unfortunately I was all out of paint , and they didn't have the same exact color, so I pulled all the calipers so they would match ( and added a coat of clear this time around)
After all that fun, I worked on getting the lines hooked up. Eliminating the leaky, bulky rear proportioning valves was one of the things I was most looking forward to when I started on the brakes. Unfortunately there was no way to use the existing mounting stud for the proportioning valve bracket, but nothing a a self-tapping screw can't fix
While I was waiting for the calipers to dry, I (reluctantly; those nuts are a real pain to get to) removed the brake booster. This facilitated adjusting the steering linkage to cure the highly annoying off-center steering wheel I've endured the past 10,000 miles. Maybe someone can explain why they used such a fine spline shaft, making it a pain to get it just right, the would would have been a better place if they used like a 10 or 15 spline shaft, then it would be obvious upon re-assembly if something was amiss.
After steering was handled it was time to downgrade the clutch. I've only got one complete hydro setup, and that will go in the car with a t5 so I had to dust off some cable crap to install, figured I'd sand it down and give it a re-spray in the process.
Next was the injectors,
So here's something I didn't realize. The 850 turbo "orange top" injectors every advocates for resistor pack -free T+ conversions are not a good choice. Why? you may ask, well, that's because they flow 310cc........at like 4 bar. At 3 bar, they are well into the 2XXcc range. I'm quite curious if that was the reason for the high rpm stumble I used to get ocassionallly in 3rd /4th/and 5th gear?
In any event, I found some suitable (for my current goals) replacenents. Saab 360cc injectors. They came on a 9000turbo iirc and in addition to actually supplying a reasonable amount of fuel, have a 4 nozzle cap, which should atomize fuel a little better.
Finally, once all the brakes lines where attached, and calipers bolted down, I re-installed the booster, and installed the MC. I've never been a fan of "bench bleeding" as it creates unnecessary messes, and the fittings they supply are always crap. So I grabbed a set of lines from a 740 ABS unit at the junk yard and made my own MC bleed setup.
Now I just have to wait for a friend to help bleed the brakes.....