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option for replacement 255 fuel pump *2010 thread, no check valve

gsellstr said:
As for results, didn't fix my stumble, but it's running perhaps a touch better than with the old one, and it sounds FAR smoother that the other one ever did, plus it's far quieter. Time will tell.
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I noticed you mentioned a stumble. Did you ever figure out what was causing it?
 
Bump! BIG40 still working! Saved $40.

Edit: and btw, if tossing the main pump and just running the in-tank walbroairtex, might as well fit a bigger fuel filter in the cage like from a BMW V8 or something.
 
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Guess I can bump this thread. So far 2-3 years and running, no issues at all, running partial E85 with no problems. Just swapped one into orie's ride and the OD of the pump is about .020-.030" smaller than stock so it's just a touch loose in the ring, but nothing a hose clamp won't address.
 
Thanks for posting this. I replaced my 97' 960 pump with the airtex e2366, I would have tried ordering from rallitek, but I needed to get it fixed today. The airtex is a bit smaller than the stock pump, but it comes with some rubber sleeves that make it the same size and might help with some of the "walbro whine", and I did have to whittle a bit from the plastic cage that holds the pump so that the pickup sock worked with it, and I safety wired it in place too. Otherwise a pretty direct swap.

BE WARNED, not sure about others, but on the 960 you can do the swap through the access panel above the tank, however, the pickup sock sticks out to the side and makes getting it back into the in tank baffle a huge pain. You have to insert the assembly in to the right, then rotate/twist it upwards/counter clocks wise, so that the pump and pickup goes into the baffle ring first, otherwise you'll just keep ripping the pump loose. Otherwise great swap, hour later and its up and running again, plus I didn't have to drop the tank.
 
Interesting, you say it's smaller than the stock pump on the 960? We did the 2366 on Elliott's 945 and it was a pretty solid fit. IF anything perhaps .020" smaller OD so we used a large hose clamp to tighten up the retainer ring just a little.

The sock is indeed somewhat of a pain, but workable...
 
gsellstr said:
Think about it like this Toby...

Worst case, you're maxing your injectors.
70lb x 4 = 280lb/hr = 171lph
per http://convert-to.com/flow-units-converter.html

You're already past the limitations of the stock in-tank pump at 130lph, let alone the main which isn't more than 150lph at a lower pressure. Also swapping to a single in-tank pump you've got fewer components to fail, less electrical load, fewer connections, less weight, and less restriction in the system.
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Wouldnt that calculation only be true if the injectors all fired simultaneously?
 
Koston740 said:
Wouldnt that calculation only be true if the injectors all fired simultaneously?
Click to expand...

I'm running batch fire, so yeah. I'm also now running ~90% duty cycle now with the new head, still at 1bar boost.

I've got a 300lph pump on the bench waiting to get installed. I know I need larger injectors either way so I'll be upgrading the pump soon.
 
what fittings do I need to delete the main pump and where can I find them? I read i'll need a 135* -8AN and straight -8AN but I just want to make sure. anyone have pics of finished setup? yes I know this is an old post lol
 
I replaced my intake pump (92' 740t) with this in-tank pump last week.... I deleted the main pump under the car. I was thinking the in-tank pump was dead, the main pump under the car was pretty loud. The volvo's in-tank pump screen was broken and must have been sucked into the pump casing the failure. Needless to say I was looking for a fuel pump upgrade, and wanted to remove the main pump. This pump is considerably quieter than the stock volvo setup. So good so far... have about 1500 miles so far on it.... I have noticed, it takes a few more cranks to fire up and the fuel rail does not hold the pressure when the engine is turned off like the stock setup. NOT BAD 70$..
 
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