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92 240 AC Rebuild

xDread92x

xDread92x

Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2015
Location
NC
Hey All,

So i bought the R12 to R134A retrofit kit from advance auto and the low pressure side adapter fitting doesn't seem to fit my receiver/dryer.

I am thinking this kit is for domestic cars only??

Did I just lose my $12.99??
 
I just replaced the compressor and drier in my '90 245.
If the fitting you are asking about is the very large one between the drier and the hose going into the cab,I believe that is Volvo specific. My friend helping with the work, worked at an AC shop for years and has not seen that fitting before. Also, if I can remember correctly that is a high pressure line.
The low side fitting should be on the back of the compressor toward the left side of the car. The fitting on my original compressor pointed toward the back of the car. The fitting on my reman four seasons compressor points towards the frame rail.

Hope that helps.
 
xDread92x said:
Hey All,

So i bought the R12 to R134A retrofit kit from advance auto and the low pressure side adapter fitting doesn't seem to fit my receiver/dryer.

I am thinking this kit is for domestic cars only??

Did I just lose my $12.99??
Click to expand...

I thought they were all the same thread pitch if r12. Those 'retrofits' fit all the pre 93 volvos I’ve worked on. Rent a vacuum pump and some manifold gauges if you wanna do it right. Well, doing it 'right' would consist of getting all the mineral oil out of the system and refilling with pag 46. But you will probably be okay.
 
Yea i plan to buy a new compressor and condenser and bought a new receiver/dryer. I tried the retrofitting low side adapter on the new receiver/drier but it acts like it wont fit. Maybe its user error.

I bought some ac gauges and plan to vacuum the system etc. I don’t see an oring for the low side adapter, should there be one?
 
iHateVolvoPeople said:
Well, doing it 'right' would consist of getting all the mineral oil out of the system and refilling with pag 46.
Click to expand...

Pag oil is incompatible in former R-12 systems. Use esther oil as recommend by Volvo.

OP do you have a copy of the conversion greenbook?
 
Wren said:
Pag oil is incompatible in former R-12 systems. Use esther oil as recommend by Volvo.

OP do you have a copy of the conversion greenbook?
Click to expand...

Why is that? Pag 46 is incompatable with r12 itself. But removing all mineral oil, filling with pag 46 and r134a works totally fine.

Source: I’ve done it multiple times.

Pag 46 will not mix with mineral oil, but ester oil will. Having flushed my A/C components and then replacing the compresssor and R/D, and filling with pag 46, i have had good results. By the way, you should always replace the R/D (which I see that you said you are).
 
xDread92x said:
Yea i plan to buy a new compressor and condenser and bought a new receiver/dryer. I tried the retrofitting low side adapter on the new receiver/drier but it acts like it wont fit. Maybe its user error.

I bought some ac gauges and plan to vacuum the system etc. I don?t see an oring for the low side adapter, should there be one?
Click to expand...

Are you asking about an oring on the inside or outside of your new fitting? I can?t recall if there?s one on the inside, but there shouldn?t be one on the outside. The outside portion is sealed by the oring in the manifold gauges themselves.
 
I don't think I saw a mention of the expansion valve replacement. If you are going to this detail each part of the system should be disassembled, blown out with brake cleaner and air and install new 'O' rings everywhere soaked with compressor oil.
 
iHateVolvoPeople said:
Why is that? Pag 46 is incompatable with r12 itself. But removing all mineral oil, filling with pag 46 and r134a works totally fine.

Source: I’ve done it multiple times.
Click to expand...
I'm just telling you what the greenbook says to do. If they thought PAG oil was the correct lubricant, they would have specified its use.
 
Wren said:
I'm just telling you what the greenbook says to do. If they thought PAG oil was the correct lubricant, they would have specified its use.
Click to expand...

Pag is probably a little more harsh on orings, but it?s also cheap and readily available everywhere, and works fine:x:
 
Yea i was asking about inside the low pressure side. I don't see an oring in the kit so i guess it does not go on the inside.

Could anyone tell me all important o ring replacement areas?
 
The 'O' rings are located at any point connections are made. Just follow the hoses from high pressure port on the compressor to the return low pressure port. All are important to keeping the gas in. With the extent you are going in parts replacement I would suggest that you plan to replace all the 'O' rings.
 
Yea thats why i was asking. I plan to replace all. Rub them with oil prior to fitment?

I need to get the low side figured out as far as the 134a adapter.

Receiver/Dryer was bought from ebay, not sure if that matters.
 
xDread92x said:
Yea thats why i was asking. I plan to replace all. Rub them with oil prior to fitment?

I need to get the low side figured out as far as the 134a adapter.

Receiver/Dryer was bought from ebay, not sure if that matters.
Click to expand...

Yes, lube your NEW O-rings with mineral oil as you make each connection; don't overtorque these weak threads.

Use Ester Oil for all vehicles converted from R12 to R134a; PAG oil is for OEM vehicles designed with R134a from the factory.

Vacuum down for minimum of an hour to allow all of the water/non-condensibles (air) to be removed.

Learn how to bleed the air from your charging hose (youTube) so you don't reintroduce air back into the system.

If your old compressor failed and put debris in the system, you need to completely flush from compressor to orifice tube; if you vehicle is a 91+ then you have the orifice tube.

If you want further 411, shoot me a PM. :cool:
 
I do my A/C work thru the low side. The compressor on my 1990 240 accepted the Parts-Store R134 adapter.

Recover, vac, charge, and see if it works.

People here seem to like envirosafe refrigerant.
 
xDread92x said:
How necessary would replacing the evaporator be??
Click to expand...

Replacing the evaporator seems a little extreme but I would replace the expansion valve.

The bill for conversion under that service advisory even back in '95 surly would be well over $1000.
 
TestPoint said:
Replacing the evaporator seems a little extreme but I would replace the expansion valve.

The bill for conversion under that service advisory even back in '95 surly would be well over $1000.
Click to expand...

HA! My 740 came with a $4k+ Brentwood Volvo receipt for all new ac stuff, and a rear main seal. And the compressor was some aftermarket junk that leaked like a sieve.
 
Don't vent refrigerant to the atmoshpere. I use a machine to recover it. It actually goes back into other cars!

Honestly, if I were in your situation, I would just first inspect the system for leaks (oily residue), buy a can with a guage and see if there is ANY PRESSURE. if it's at 0 psi there was a leak. If it's up to 60-80 psi static, there is SOME refrigerant in there.

If it's at 0psi you lost all the refrigerant. I would then just charge thru the Low side on the back of the compressor (via adapter) and put 80 percent of the R12 spec in there.

I bought a 1990 740 that was sitting for years and all I did was vac and charge, and it's been working for almost a year so far.

Unless you see a big oily leak somewhere, I wouldn't even worry about adding oil right now.
 
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