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5 cylinder block cracking?

Looks like I can still count on turbobricks to work hard at solving imaginary problems. :lol: Nice work!
 
Just for the record my t5r was north of 400 whp, unshimmed, Mahles and audibly pinged for over a year while I sorted other issues and that was seven years ago. Got a note from the current owner and the car is still going as strong as ever. Just sayin...

I did generally keep the boost to 20 psi or so and redline at 7600.
 
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Hank Scorpio said:
Just for the record my t5r was north of 400 whp, unshimmed, Mahles and audibly pinged for over a year while I sorted other issues and that was seven years ago. Got a note from the current owner and the car is still going as strong as ever. Just sayin...

I did generally keep the boost to 20 psi or so and redline at 7600.
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Dyno logs to back that up? With significant knock, it is unlikely to not damage the motor, so either the knock wasn't as bad as you thought, or it was running so rich it just didn't matter?
 
CAPT_BLOTTO said:
He's got logs, video, pbase and a huge build thread to back it up. It's one of the most viewed build threads on TB.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=58262
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Nice work. 35 pages and no test/tune/dyno data at all. I'll move on to the second link now...

EDIT: There it is!

63083442.jpg


Very respectable numbers on a real dyno. Not surprisingly power drops off a little over 6K, but given the hotside used and stock intake manifold, it's understandable. Definitely needed more tuning/more fuel volume/bigger injectors, got way too lean pretty quickly.
 
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+1 to Tightmopedman9 for bringing this thread up from the depths.. great links in here. Cheers
 
On that note, a couple of years ago now I did what Capt Bondo had suggested around page two, and installed a decent sized turbo, headers, and a short runner large plenum intake. Compared with the previous setup that had a restrictive setup, I was able to make more power at lower boost, run higher revs on basically the same tune without any of the knock that was pulling timing previously

3rd/4th gear Data - logs include logging knock events

Screenshot2014-03-03221252_zpsfd46d332.png


EBR dropped below 1:1, even at 22psi. Made 450AWHP @ 7900rpm on a AWD mainline Dyno. And Yeah, I used feeler gauge material for my interference fit shims & installed pre-bore. 20k miles since build.
 
lookforjoe said:
On that note, a couple of years ago now I did what Capt Bondo had suggested around page two, and installed a decent sized turbo, headers, and a short runner large plenum intake. Compared with the previous setup that had a restrictive setup, I was able to make more power at lower boost, run higher revs on basically the same tune without any of the knock that was pulling timing previously
.
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Because you aren't holding all that heat in. What people are failing to realize is that in terms of factors that contribute to those liner failures, 90% of it is thermal.

Of course it's way easier on the ego to say "ZOMG I made too much powerz! I broked err-thang!" than to simply say "I tried to use a bunch of stock junk to do something it was never designed for with no tuning and it smoked itself." Ooh shocking. :lol:
 
Captain Bondo said:
Because you aren't holding all that heat in. What people are failing to realize is that in terms of factors that contribute to those liner failures, 90% of it is thermal.

Of course it's way easier on the ego to say "ZOMG I made too much powerz! I broked err-thang!" than to simply say "I tried to use a bunch of stock junk to do something it was never designed for with no tuning and it smoked itself." Ooh shocking. :lol:
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That right there.
 
lookforjoe said:
Nice work. 35 pages and no test/tune/dyno data at all. I'll move on to the second link now...

EDIT: There it is!

63083442.jpg


Very respectable numbers on a real dyno. Not surprisingly power drops off a little over 6K, but given the hotside used and stock intake manifold, it's understandable. Definitely needed more tuning/more fuel volume/bigger injectors, got way too lean pretty quickly.
Click to expand...

Yep. This was pre turbootuner era and it had a best guess ecu from worth-r-line that I never got retuned. Upgrading fuel line helped drastically over 5k rpm fuel wise. I moved the ball forward quite a bit back then, it's impressive how far everyone has come since then (2006-8ish).

63 ar exhaust side, s60r manifold, gt3071r. Absolutely right, great powerband but that exhaust, hit side and stock intake absolutely restrict over 6k.

That being said, if that motor was rwd it would have been perfect powerband. Usable power everywhere. Even running lean like that I beat it without remorse for years.

The new wagon gets a 2000 block and head, me7 intake, ATP exhaust manifold and an 82ar gtx3076r this time. I don't want to run a header or custom intake for visual (inspection) reasons. Should still be an improvement.

I've been a big advocate of the best thing you can do to a whiteblock is get rid of the damn td04 and uncork that side of the motor.

Btw I'll take the fact you found my dyno sheet as a pseudo apology for going right to pitchfork and torch status on my post ;)
 
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Saw this thread get bumped, thought about making a constructive comment about my block I'm in the process of pinning.

Read the whole thing and decided to nope out. Enjoy kids.
 
Hank Scorpio said:
The new wagon gets a 2000 block and head, me7 intake, ATP exhaust manifold and an 82ar gtx3076r this time. I don't want to run a header or custom intake for visual (inspection) reasons. Should still be an improvement.

I've been a big advocate of the best thing you can do to a whiteblock is get rid of the damn td04 and uncork that side of the motor.

Btw I'll take the fact you found my dyno sheet as a pseudo apology for going right to pitchfork and torch status on my post ;)
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Lol. Superb work.

The fuel line restriction is a big issue - I wish the AWD lines were as accessible as the FWD - I would have just dealt with a quick upgrade to the feeder in that case. As it is, I'm going dual pumps in a surge tank with 12mm feed and return lines - once I can take the wagon out of daily driver status for a few days to allow for line fabrication, forgotten fittings etc, when I drop the saddle tank to access & upgrade that mess.

ATP manifold (with EWG , I presume?) sounds like a decent approach. Probably easier to work around than the up & drop LGSpeed header I'm using - which now has a minor leak around the EGT bung I put in the underside of the collector :-( it's gonna require substantial time to get all that off the engine without pulling the motor....
 
You nailed it. I've done the header thing in the past and with this build I'd rather have the durability of a cast manifold even if it's a trade off performance wise. I've done enough of these builds over the last 20 years or so, I want this one to be broad power I rather than bragging rights of a peak number with reliability being number one. The t5r was great for that in every regard except it was fwd and even with the LSD it still spun them In third on the freeway.

I like to try to make the most power I can while staying at 25 psi or under (ideally Around 18-20). That's a. Number that is still doable on CA pump swill.

Btw I'm very impressed with your build. Been watching it for the last year or so since I've come back around. Extremely well done.
 
Tightmopedman9 said:
Cracked%20cylinder%20liner.jpg


6061 Shims, ~320WHP, about 2mm from the top

B5254T5(LPT)
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i would not use aluminium. Tightmopedman9 what you're posting a a shimmed block with shims pressed in leaving a 2mm gap at the top that cracked? i don't see any shim in there that's why i'm asking.
 
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