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240 battery relocation

I have mine in the passenger butt cheek on my wagon. I used a large power from the battery to the starter and then taped all the additional power from there.. I ran multiple grounds from the engine to the chassis and from the battery to 2 ground points in the back of the trunk just to get every amp.. Happy with it so far..

-Sam
 
I put mine in the right rear well, when I made my car a V8. Got some H/D welding cable from a buddy.Works fine. Grounded the battery in the well, and grounded the engine at the starter to the body.
 
I like it in the trunk, less heat, weight is in a place it does some good and still easy to jump
 

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Grounded the battery in the well, and grounded the engine at the starter to the body.

Just make sure you don't ground to "bolted on" sheetmetal. Only trust the welded chassis. Common problem with headlights/E-fans, etc, bolted to front core support or fenders. Always take all devices on that front core support via a GOOD ground cable back to the engine, then engine to chassis to trunk battery.
 
You guys that relocated your batteries to the trunk and ran a giant battery cable under and through your cars to the alternator without putting a fuse or circuit breaker on it are out of your minds.

If that cable gets pinched or nicked, like in a car accident for example, your cars will burn to the ground and Volvo engineers would be very disappointed at your disregard for safety.
 
You guys that relocated your batteries to the trunk and ran a giant battery cable under and through your cars to the alternator without putting a fuse or circuit breaker on it are out of your minds.

If that cable gets pinched or nicked, like in a car accident for example, your cars will burn to the ground and Volvo engineers would be very disappointed at your disregard for safety.

I have bought a big fuse (250 Amp) , just need to get off my butt and install it, I agree, that big live cable running though the car is a potential danger....And I do think about it when driving, I have 3 potential failure points along its length. I just finished fabricating and tuning a new shifter, guess this will be next.
 
I'm really surprised those kits don't include something.

Not to sound like an alarmist, but that is a legit danger with nothing to open the circuit in case of a short to ground. You can weld with a 12v car battery for chrissake.
 
I'm really surprised those kits don't include something.

Not to sound like an alarmist, but that is a legit danger with nothing to open the circuit in case of a short to ground. You can weld with a 12v car battery for chrissake.

I totally agree, I have added layers of insulation to my positive, including hard plastic where it goes through the frame, but still feel like a fuse is a necessary item. Most kits are sold for "race" cars and they do recommend a master shutoff for those types of installs
 
I totally agree, I have added layers of insulation to my positive, including hard plastic where it goes through the frame, but still feel like a fuse is a necessary item. Most kits are sold for "race" cars and they do recommend a master shutoff for those types of installs

I learned some stuff on this site, worth a look
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
 
Mad kit has large cable only hot during cranking, and the smaller hot wire uses a fusible link , so no fuse required.
 
I'm planning on heading down to summit tomorrow and picking up some relocation posts.

So that I understand the wiring diagram, if I take the battery out and mount the remote posts in the engine bay, can I run the wiring to the remote posts as if the battery where there? I'd still need to run a ground wire from the negative terminal to the body and then a positive cable from the positive terminal all the way back to the battery correct?
 
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It should be, and probably more than enough in a race car, but most multi-battery setups that I've seen (for car audio) use 0 gauge.

The trouble is there is real variation in what companies are allowed to sell labeled 4awg.
 
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