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Old 12-02-2018, 02:02 PM   #1
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Location: South GA
Question 240 ignition lock plate

While I was in there, I noticed my key is getting harder and harder to turn. On one occasion, the key would not turn off the engine. It eventually did, and now it still sticks even after blasting it with air, wd-40 graphite, etc.

When I turn the key, I notice the square plate in the pictures below moves a bit. I'm not really up for being without a car for weeks, and was wondering if I could remove the plate, take out the bits inside, and still use the key for the car. I would still like it to "look" like it needs the correct key for the car.
It's a 91 240 manual trans.

I wanted to ask before I destroyed it some more.

Thanks for entertaining my hackish ways.


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Old 12-02-2018, 05:17 PM   #2
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Location: - Stock PSI Or Bust -

Right, the OE chicken fat grease was drying up in the 140s ~20 years ago and now it's the 240's turn.

I wouldn't use WD 40 because it's hygroscopic, and graphite is made for brass lock cylinders, plus it is carbon which is the catalyst for rust because the lock is made of pot metal and steel bits.

I'd use teflon based lubricants like Tri-flow or CLP Break Free [gun oil] which are designed to protect and lubricate dissimilar metals in contact with each other.
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Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 12-02-2018, 07:03 PM   #3
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Location: South GA

Well, I got it off out of curiosity-- the break free was a good idea, but it still would catch, and this is how I believe my starter burned up. The square part is now off...it was quite thick with a spring in the middle. Apparently, it is for the detent in the lock. So now it turns quite freely--more freely than I ever imagined or wanted...

I suppose I need an ignition lock and a super long extension cord to run my drill! Unless anyone has any suggestions.
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