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Old 12-05-2018, 08:20 PM   #1
vwblue1967
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Default Poorly running 240

I know these pop up often... sorry.

1993 244

I've had a weird intermittent issue where the car would run great for hundreds of miles then stall one day. Then run great again. Sometimes an occasional stumble and back to running good.

It eventually got worse and at times wouldn't start or it would start but not idle on it's on. Until it got bad I never had any codes. But once it wasn't driveable, I got the 1-1-3 faulty fuel injectors or incorrect fuel mixture depending on where you look up the codes.

I assumed I could figure it out with parts..

Main pump and filter. Also checked fuel pressure with only pumps running, car running and the car running with the FPR unplugged.

Replaced the powerstage and CPS.

Swapped plug wires.

New plugs - the old plugs were gapped way more than they should have been but the car ran great the last 25K with them.

Swapped in rebuilt Bosch injectors. Ohm tested new o-rings.

New ECT.

New o2 sensor.

I cleaned and made sure the idle control valve was clicking open.

Verified the injectors were firing.

Blew cigar smoke in vacuum hoses and blasted the engine with carb cleaner trying to find leaks with no luck.

After replacing the injectors and plugs it started much better but won't idle at all. Runs decent if I keep my foot on the pedal. It's pretty smooth but seems like a little bit of a hiccup. I had the battery unplugged so I guess that erased any codes. But the check engine light came on and I still have the 1-1-3 code.

I tried checking the O2 sensor at the computer plug and I did not see continuity. I checked the green wire from where it connects to the O2 harness and at the plug to the computer and I had continuity (assuming this means there's no break in the wire).

Any ideas on why I wouldn't have continuity for the O2 sensor? Same reading on the last sensor and replacing didn't fix it. And are there other ways to check it or anyone have any ideas I check?
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Old 12-06-2018, 12:35 AM   #2
dl242gt
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An oxygen sensor generates a small voltage. You can use the continuity testing for the wiring. But don't test with the sensor connected. Ohmmeters generate a small voltage too.

Have you made sure the engine mechanically is ok to run? Like checking for a good timing belt? Make sure the distributor has numper one cylinder in the correct location?
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Old 12-06-2018, 10:20 PM   #3
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The timing had crossed my mind but that wouldn't be an intermittent problem. I replaced the timing belt and tensioner around 25k ago and made sure to check the tension a few times.

It ran weird on day and I replaced the coolant temp sensor and it then ran like normal. I drove it around 3.5 hours over the next 2 days with no problem then it stalled.

I'll keep messing with it and report back when I figure it out to hopefully help someone else one day.
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Old 12-06-2018, 10:32 PM   #4
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May try monitoring the idle air motor and AMM while idling with a meter, I had intermittent severe power loss, was fine for 1/2 tank of gas then lost all hp when accelerating. After firing the parts shotgun at the fuel system, it turned out to be the AMM and idle air motor had intermittent problems, the idle air motor was actually the main culprit, started sticking open when warm, but only every once and a while. It seemed to be worse the warmer the engine got, like sitting in traffic for extended periods of time.
Not exactly what you are experiencing, just throwing it out there
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Old 12-06-2018, 10:52 PM   #5
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Got any rattling s#!t that might trigger the knock sensor? just tossin' it out there... I am not an expert.
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Old 12-07-2018, 08:20 AM   #6
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Your 93.. is it the late production with the fuses on the battery post?

113 is telling you it is in limp-home rich mode and not about faulty injectors, and the continuity test prescribed in Bentley has an error where the oxygen sensor wiring is checked. Reset the computer by momentarily removing the FI fuse (either #6 inside or the PAL fuse outside if yours is late production) and monitor the oxygen sensor output voltage once it is warmed up. Before you reset the computers, it will run poorly but run. After you reset, give it 10 minutes to adapt again before you trust taking your foot off of the accelerator pedal for idle. My experience is rife with poor connections rather than "bad" parts. However a "bad" FPR or AMM or O2 will get the thing into limp-home 113 and make it feel intermittent.
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Old 12-07-2018, 02:08 PM   #7
dl242gt
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when I discovered how correcded and damaged the battery terminal was under the late model fuse block. I was able to source a gold plated marine terminal from one of the local auto stores to replace only the battery terminal. The fuse block and battery cable bolted up to it and it's been more reliable since then.
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Old 12-07-2018, 03:38 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2turbotoys View Post
May try monitoring the idle air motor and AMM while idling with a meter, I had intermittent severe power loss, was fine for 1/2 tank of gas then lost all hp when accelerating. After firing the parts shotgun at the fuel system, it turned out to be the AMM and idle air motor had intermittent problems, the idle air motor was actually the main culprit, started sticking open when warm, but only every once and a while. It seemed to be worse the warmer the engine got, like sitting in traffic for extended periods of time.
Not exactly what you are experiencing, just throwing it out there

Once I get it to idle I'll try that, thanks.
I just pulled the throttle body to clean it and reset the throttle switch. It was much dirtier than I thought it would be.
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Old 12-07-2018, 03:39 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hacksaw116 View Post
Got any rattling s#!t that might trigger the knock sensor? just tossin' it out there... I am not an expert.
Not that I know of but thought about swapping in a new one in since they are not too expensive.
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Old 12-07-2018, 03:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cleanflametrap View Post
Your 93.. is it the late production with the fuses on the battery post?

113 is telling you it is in limp-home rich mode and not about faulty injectors, and the continuity test prescribed in Bentley has an error where the oxygen sensor wiring is checked. Reset the computer by momentarily removing the FI fuse (either #6 inside or the PAL fuse outside if yours is late production) and monitor the oxygen sensor output voltage once it is warmed up. Before you reset the computers, it will run poorly but run. After you reset, give it 10 minutes to adapt again before you trust taking your foot off of the accelerator pedal for idle. My experience is rife with poor connections rather than "bad" parts. However a "bad" FPR or AMM or O2 will get the thing into limp-home 113 and make it feel intermittent.
I'll try this also once I get the throttle body gasket. Thanks
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