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Which turbo is best turbo?

megulon-7 said:
which one?

I was interested in these when they came out, but heard they had issues with the early production...
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I have a 7064, but it's on a 16V motor. Might go a little smaller on an 8V.

I do know the dual scroll internal WG version (which I have) had some initial issues with the turbine castings. They were supposed to be using investment casting (to make a more precise and lighter housing) but had troubles with quality control - too many rejected castings. There was a delay, and then they started making the version I got which has a conventionally cast housing. I guess a little heavier and not as smooth inside. Still stainless, though.
 
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BDKR said:
+1! There's what? Barely 50 to 60 CFM difference.
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Less.


http://www.stealth316.com/2-3s-compflowmaps.htm

td04-15g-cfm.gif

td04h-16t-cfm.gif
 
BDKR said:
If you already have a 15g, that's easily upgraded to a 18t, 19t, and even a 22t.
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A 16t chra would be a better starting off point. A 15g would require machining of the chra which isn't cheap. With a 16t chra, you could easily upgrade to an 18t or even to a 19t with conversion wheel(which won't require machining of chra). The 19t conversion wheel is available from ARD or Kinugawa. If you did go to a 22t, that would require machining of the chra.
 
white855T said:
A 16t chra would be a better starting off point. A 15g would require machining of the chra which isn't cheap. With a 16t chra, you could easily upgrade to an 18t or even to a 19t with conversion wheel(which won't require machining of chra). The 19t conversion wheel is available from ARD or Kinugawa. If you did go to a 22t, that would require machining of the chra.
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That's true!

When I said upgrade, I was talking about buying CHRA, wheels, and compressor housing. Something like...

VOLVO85020TKITB.jpg


http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/turbochraupgradekitvolvos70850td04hl-20tmonster-1.aspx

I'll be more clear in the future. :nod:
 
I'm in a similar situation. I have the stock mitsubishi 13c in my 94 940 turbo. I'm running 12 pounds of boost and it pulls nicely, but I'm looking for a bit more on the cheap. A 15g is a direct bolt-up while a 16t requires a dp correct? What other mods are required to run high boost with a 15g? Injectors? maf? tuning chips?
 
magicianman89 said:
A 15g is a direct bolt-up while a 16t requires a dp correct?
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If the 15G has a conical turbine housing, then yes, it will be a direct replacement for a 13C (reclocking aside). If the 15G has a flat flange turbine housing it will also require a modified downpipe same as a 16T.

Conical flange on left, flat flange on right.
6405d1341600884-15g-turbo-upgade-err-850-turbo-conical-vs-straight-flange.jpg
 
LeedomtoFreedom said:
The angled flange also has much better flow properties.
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I read this multiple times on here. Can anybody give me some facts which support this statement?
If it is "much better" it must have been quantified.

So far I have not found anything which backs this up. This is a turbine with a 45mm exducer and I have a very hard time believing a 70mm turbine outlet (flat flange) is a serious restriction for these small ass turbines.

Seems the general logic is "well it is bigger it must flow more". At what size does the turbine housing outlet not form a restriction anymore? 80mm? 100mm? :roll:
 
Well at least between the two flat flanged housings, the angled one has a better internal path versus the other housing. Even when I upgraded from the conical housing, I could feel a slight increase in spool speed. Obviously I don't have Dyno figures or a wind tunnel so take my advice with a pinch of salt.
 
At the end of the day, the difference between the conical flange and the larger (7cm2?) Flange might be noticeable, but changing from a straight flange to an angled flange is probably a worthless upgrade on these turbos.
 
I might just need to make up a couple fixtures for the flow bench at work.

Physically there are a few things I can see. First, the conical, flat and 6cm angled appear to have a pre turbine bottleneck, and a hump that could cause laminar flow issues entering the turbine. The 7cm2 has a much more gradual taper. The turbulence slows the flow and builds pressure but causes velocity to drop, then after spinning through the turbine exits and hits more of the same, bottle necks and weird bumps creating pressure on both sides of the turbine. The 7 is much smoother in transition relating to greater laminar flow, increasing overall flow and generating better efficiency
 
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