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YASVT (Yet Another Sixteen Valve Turbo) - now 16V Whiteblock (LS)

Oh, the studs. They're just lightly run down to the bottom of their holes. I used an Allen wrench. Maybe 10 ft lbs?

Got the cam carrier sealing surfaces ultra spiffy clean and modestly evenly daubed with pink bubble gum, and bolted that on, left it to sit.
 
Yep. Foam roller.

Did a bit more work on it. I'd probably get it running this weekend but I'm going out in the woods all weekend again.
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Just needs fluids, a battery charge, and a belly pan.

I moved the FPR out from under the intake manifold so the gauge is actually visible now. The fuel line has an awkward run to it from the fuel rail, I probably need to get a 90 degree fitting to drop it down so it can go under the manifold.

Other than that, same setup as before. Just with stronger wrist pins this time.
 
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It lives! Well, it started right up and proceeded to run on 3 cylinders. #3 is not firing for some reason. I swapped injector leads around, stayed on #3. Took the plug out, it was good. Swapped the COP's around, stayed on #3. Stuck a loose plug in #3 and cranked it over and saw sparks. I'm guessing it's a stuck injector at this point, I just have to pull off the tower brace to get to it.

On the plus side - no tap tap tap.
 
(Above was last evening) And when I tried it this morning, it fired right up on all 4. Certainly lends credence to the stuck injector theory. After a night of soaking in fresh fuel I guess it unstuck.

Anyhow, vroom vroom. I'm taking it easy for a bit, I'll roll the timing advance back a bit.
 
The lifters sometimes get sticky and don't pump up right away and cause misses. I have had it happen many times. Compression test would tell if this is the case or not.
 
It was cranking evenly last night and wasn't clattering when it was running.

The lifters are all new, I replaced them all right before I tore the engine down, thinking the wristpin tap was a flat lifter.
 
Boost control isn't working, because the TPS isn't working.

A brief bit of work with a multimeter at the plug last night leads me to believe the ground is OK, the signal wire is OK, but for some reason I'm not getting 5V on the third wire. Then it started raining so I didn't bother working on it any more (it's a PITA trying to work on stuff like that in the garage, it's a small 2 car, the PV is in there too).

It was all working before, there's probably just a wire loose somewhere.
 
Glad everything's good to go! I'd like to ride in it again sometime soon, there's just something thrilling about riding in a 300+whp volvo station wagon.

I also want to see the pv
 
Let me get the kinks ironed out on it first.

It wouldn't start after sitting 10 minutes at lunch. For some reason it cold starts just find, hot starts just fine, but warm starts are an issue. I think it's 10% the ignition map kicking back against the starter when it's warm (not sure why then and not cold), 90% the battery just being weak. It's a cute little braille, it's several years old by now (spring 2011), and I think sitting around dead for months on end while the motor is all blowed up has been hard on it.
 
JohnMc said:
I think it's 10% the ignition map kicking back against the starter when it's warm (not sure why then and not cold)...
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Can you elaborate on that a bit? My car liked to pop while cranking, sometimes causing a nice grind on the ring gear/starter. Pretty sure I broke the two teeth off the old flywheel during cranking misfires. Do you know what to change to fix that? I wasn't sure.
 
I'm sure it's a MS thing, or perhaps it's an ethanol thing (i.e burns faster in a hot chamber vs. cold?).

But basically ,on a cold start, it cranks over normally, fires and starts. With a hot/warm engine, it cranks over for a half second (I assume while it's getting the tooth counting thing going - I'm using a DSM CAS so it has to pass #1 TDC), then as it tries to start it pushes back against the starter. No popping, the cranking speed just gets lurched back to damn near zero, then the starter recovers and cranks it forward again until the next cylinder fire, which does the same.

It not using the ignition maps at that point (IIRC). I'm thinking I just have the cranking timing set a bit too advanced. Works when cold, not when hot when presumably the ethanol fires off more quickly (???). I know there is a coolant temperature based 'cold engine ign advance' feature. I probably need a bit more of that and a bit less 'normal' cranking degrees.

If the battery was feeling a bit peppier it could just power through those push backs and the motor would start, but it's small, it's old (ish), and it's weak, so it just seems to sap it pretty much when it tries.
 
JohnMc said:
I moved the FPR out from under the intake manifold so the gauge is actually visible now.
Click to expand...

Your FPR is exactly where mine is, except my gauge is in the dash.


JohnMc said:
I'm guessing it's a stuck injector at this point, I just have to pull off the tower brace to get to it.
Click to expand...

Yep. Happens to me so often I made a "test harness" that I can attach to each injector to give it a straight shot of 12V direct from a battery. Wakes them right up.
 
yeah I've got an injector on goldie that's doing the same thing. going to pull all 4 out and check the baskets.
 
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