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Old 11-21-2020, 08:41 PM   #1
aharres
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Default lower chassis braces for a 240

I ordered the 240 lower chassis braces from yoshifab and when I went to install them, I discovered my frame rails are totally punched in like the car went over a rock or something and I won't be able to install them unless I fix that somehow


How much of a difference do the braces make? My suspension is stock, fresh, I have 215/70R14 tires, and I drive the car hard.
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Old 11-22-2020, 01:10 AM   #2
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Weld some flat stock to the crushed are with a nut welded to the flat stock? Use the damage for excuse to beef up the frame rail? That’s the way I’d go about it. Picture of dame would be nice.
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Old 11-22-2020, 04:44 PM   #3
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I took some pictures of my frame rails. Half of the metal around one of the passenger side trans crossmember frame nuts has rusted away. The last pic is with me holding the chassis brace up to the driver's side frame rail. I need to get a picture of the brace on the passenger side frame rail because it's even more messed up. Actually my rear passenger foot well was dented upwards. I've since beaten the panel back down with a dead blow.

https://imgur.com/a/DCt5lCG
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Old 11-23-2020, 02:14 PM   #4
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I had a similar deal with mine...funny how a quarter million miles will wear on a car like that. I was still able to bolt them up, though.

As for the rust...uh...I'd probably throw a bolt in there and go to work with my mig, and then remove the bolt. But I know that may not an option for everyone...
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Old 11-23-2020, 03:41 PM   #5
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Where you are holding the chassis brace is not where it bolts on. The brace installs from a hole in the front engine crossmember to the bracket that holds the rear control arm bushing. The brace just uses holes already in those locations. Be sure to use the metal locking nuts or lock washers on there so it won't come loose. That also is not what the lower brace looks like. I think you are trying to fit a front brace in the lower location. The lower brace is a tube or flat metal bar with holes in the ends for the bolts. Not the round ring welded to the end of the brace.
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1993 245 Classic, 430k miles, enem V15. IPD bars and chassis braces. Simons sport exhaust from Scandix. sbabbs ezk chip. Been a good road warrior. Genuine Volvo rebuilt leaky M47.
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Old 11-23-2020, 06:09 PM   #6
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These ?


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Old 11-23-2020, 08:48 PM   #7
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I didn't know someone made lower braces in that style. My genuine Volvo ones are round pipe with the ends crushed and a hole drilled in them. Came with nice hardware. I have the volvo version on both cars.
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Old 11-25-2020, 01:09 AM   #8
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Yeah DD Ranch. Those are what I have. I might be forced to get the volvo style braces. I originally bought the ipd ones, but as soon as I felt how heavy they were I decided to send them back and get the yoshi ones. Does anyone besides ipd make the volvo style braces?
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Old 11-25-2020, 02:20 AM   #9
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So easy to make - 1" electrical conduit, smush the ends flat, 3/8" holes 16 1/2" on center.

The most difficult part is mashing the ends flat along with the side, rather than on center like it wants to go. I held it on a concrete driveway with my foot and hammered on one side only - not perfect but close. Have a trial bolt-up before you paint, it will pull the flat parts into alignment.

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Old 11-26-2020, 03:52 AM   #10
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Can't you get longer bolts so they reach? When you screw them in to one hole you can pull the dent out a little-I think he(Yoshifab) mentions it in the install video.
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Old 11-26-2020, 05:01 AM   #11
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yeah, I think that you are looking back where the trans crossmember bolts up.

Josh has a link to an installation video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXG1h7hDQNw on his page.

To answer the question: yes, they make a difference. Prior to installing the stock style braces (IPD sells a reproduction style that I have), the steering would wander on a long curling onramp to the highway. I can take the same ramp at speed now with minimal steering correction.
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Old 11-27-2020, 01:57 PM   #12
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With the setup you have, the effect is going to be mostly psychological. You can't drive the car "hard" enough on public roads for this change to make much of a difference unless other parts of the car are dangerously compromised. In which case ("Half of the metal around one of the passenger side trans crossmember frame nuts has rusted away.") you probably want to think about addressing that instead...
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Old 11-27-2020, 05:34 PM   #13
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I have to say they have to be about the most useless braces I have seen in a long time, they look to be just something to scrape along the road on lowered cars
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Old 11-27-2020, 05:56 PM   #14
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I definitely have them in the right spot. I was just showing off how messed up my frame rails are. On the passenger side, there is just over half an inch between the brace and the frame rail. I know these tubes are strong, but I was seriously worried I would just bend the tube if I tried to use it to pull the frame rail out. I'll give it a try though :^)
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Old 11-27-2020, 10:33 PM   #15
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Alright the tubes are in and they popped the frame rails right out. Felt super spooky when the frame yielded and the tube twisted. These tubes are unbelievably strong for how light they are.
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Old 11-29-2020, 03:00 PM   #16
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Got a picture of your installation?
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Old 11-29-2020, 05:42 PM   #17
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I've got a few :^)

https://imgur.com/a/Tk8BlN0

Last edited by aharres; 11-30-2020 at 03:18 PM..
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Old 11-29-2020, 06:34 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aharres View Post
Looks good.
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Old 11-30-2020, 04:39 PM   #19
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Looks good. As I suspected those don't install in the normal brace location. The stock Volvo ones install on the rear bracket for the large control arm bushing. But that is also a good location. Those bars look very strong and I'm glad that the chassis rail popped out so you can install them. Thanks for the pictures! Enjoy!
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