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R Sport Solex Carbs

Yes that's me! Know everything about 1800/120/140 stuff and a room full of original Volvo material but no instructions on the Solex carbs. Maybe there never was. I have the R Sport of how to fit them to a car, but it is very limited information.

The only signs on the head are up front near the thermostat housing and are raised. One says SK and the other J19. ??!!

Notice hydraulic clutch too!

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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7869123@N04/463270954/" title="Clutch master by Ardavast, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/224/463270954_f422b99383.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Clutch master" /></a>
 
I fittd a Tilton pedal box to my 142 and i use a 122 bell housing,thats how i converted my 142 to a Hydroulic clutch.And thats adapted to a getrag(volvo M51) gearbox
 
nice car, any chance of seeing it out at the odd tarmac rally in it's future?

I've love to see it on the gravel but it wouldn't be the right thing to do to a car like this.
 
buerckner said:
nice car, any chance of seeing it out at the odd tarmac rally in it's future?

I've love to see it on the gravel but it wouldn't be the right thing to do to a car like this.
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As soon as I iron out the Solex carbs! It did have its share of gravel when new in 1970/71(you can tell by looking underneath it) but now tarmac only.
 
Dual solex's are not uncommon in super beetles but seems to be nothing on the net with a volvo application. According to the VW forums Webcon (http://www.webcon.co.uk bought out weber and solex so they may have some of the old info on the setup for these?
 
egads said:
Dual solex's are not uncommon in super beetles but seems to be nothing on the net with a volvo application. According to the VW forums Webcon (http://www.webcon.co.uk bought out weber and solex so they may have some of the old info on the setup for these?
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Someone years ago recognised the carbs when he saw the car and gave me copies from a manual of what looked like the same carb from a Toyota 18R-G engine. It does look similar if not the same. But then again very limited information on the sheets that he gave me.
 
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Looks like an E head casting - since that center head bolt is on a separate island, not connected to either injector pad with raised, machined metal. It is interesting that it is an injector head casting without drilled injector ports, that's about what my R-Sport head looks like - only it's made with a late F casting (center bolt connected to both adjacent injector pads).
R_Sport_1.JPG


The accelerator pump shouldn't make it run rich except for a brief moment while the throttle is actually opening wider. When held steadier, or closing, shouldn't do anything at all.

I don't know much about Solex carbs, I've just messed around with the DCOE's on my PV. Both the Dellorto and Solex carbs were designed to fit on a car in place of a DCOE and do a better job - since they were newer designs. You should be able to find some solex information around, but I think that between the 3, the solex's are by far the more rare type, the Webers still the most common.

If they're anything like the DCOE's, though, they don't like much fuel pressure at all. 2 - 5 psi, at the most. Lots of volume, very little pressure. They have larger needle valves for more flow, they're more prone to having them pushed open by higher fuel pressure. And the DCOE's, at least, don't vent overflowed fuel bowls out onto the exhaust manifold like an HS6 SU does, they dump the extra fuel into the engine.

Again, not familiar with the Solex at all, but the DCOE's have practically no moving parts, and barely anything is adjustable either. Tuning, other than idle mixture and idle speed, is all done by swapping parts. Which gets spendy, but at least they can't drift out of tune over time.
 
Nice car!

Do start with checking fuel pressure for your Solex carbs.

Take the tops off of the float bowls and verify that there is no junk in the bottom of the float bowl and that the ball valve for the needle and seat in each carburator is not leaking.
 
[/QUOTE]Looks like an E head casting - since that center head bolt is on a separate island, not connected to either injector pad with raised, machined metal. It is interesting that it is an injector head casting without drilled injector ports, that's about what my R-Sport head looks like - only it's made with a late F casting (center bolt connected to both adjacent injector pads).

The accelerator pump shouldn't make it run rich except for a brief moment while the throttle is actually opening wider. When held steadier, or closing, shouldn't do anything at all.[/QUOTE]

Yes I noticed that. Also the flat area on the side where the Aux Air Valve sits (in efi engines) is different. They must have cast special heads for R Sport.

OK, so stay away from the acc pump. I think you are right there. It seems to only squirt extra fuel when you initially push down on the gas. It doesn't do it when you're holding steady. I'll also check fuel pressure.

I have just noticed that it is even running rich on idle. There are screws to set that. So I've reset these to get the highest RPM at idle (and backed off the fast idle screws) and it seems a lot better now at idle. I had a flat spot on take off but it went steady at higher RPM when you got going. I'll take it out again and see if I've lost that flat spot by resetting the idle mixture. My thinking is that the car is rich at idle and you come to take off and you are squirting still more fuel into it. See how I go there.
 
EEV474 said:
Yes I noticed that. Also the flat area on the side where the Aux Air Valve sits (in efi engines) is different. They must have cast special heads for R Sport.
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Yeah, I see that your head and mine seem to have the same small metal plates bolted on there. Smaller than the cold idle air valve fitting.
 
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