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1+1=245

while installing fog lights I noticed this....
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so i did this
Blue and red wire is for carbed cars so I didnt fix it
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fog lights installed
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installed a new radio
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and got tired of no room for extra wires in back of radio so i cut the radio pocket
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Im also thinking about running the r-sport gauges because they look cool and also make more room for my equalizer
I think when I send them to be refurbished I will send my other tach and get the rpm "limit" needle swapped also
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While TB was down I installed a driver adjustable seat bottom on the passenger side. 4 14mm bolts hold the old bottom in place. The hardest part was fixing the springs. I only used 4 hog rings and didn't even have to touch the seat back
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now the passenger side can be tilted up and down like the driver side
 
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the seat upgrade is nice.

today
swaped my 22mm ipd bar for a 25mm
- according to ipd "..a larger (25mm/1 inch) rear bar for vehicles that are going to be lowered or are driven by enthusiast that wants more roll resistance, and understands they may encounter some oversteer in extreme cornering." :oogle::oogle::roll:

my favorite oversteer corner is one leading out of Antelope pick and pull... was nice with the 22mm bar. Should be great with the 25mm
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installed new torque rod bushings
old vs "new"
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picked up a 960 efan at a JY
 
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I like to take my breaks all the way to the metal on all my cars...
replaced front breaks and switched over to vented rotors. Found out the hard way that the non-venter rotors use smaller calipers. So I had to swap over to wider ones. Luckily I had 3 sets to choose from
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while there I repacked front wheel bearings and took off the dust shield. I kept the center on there because without that section the rear hub seal gets exposed from the back
I also noticed that my IPD outer tirerod end boot split after being on there for about a year.
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Got rid of my original arm rest (with no cup holders) for the rare late style with 4 cup holders. Who says this wont work with the early style center console mounted seatbelts....

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Now off to get the picture of the installed product
 
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installed arm rest. after 3 days in the car it unglued at the base of the arm. Now I need to re-glue it. The 240 really wants to be without cup holders
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some major updates this week...
out with the old AT
"new" m46 from redwood (got it for stupid cheap :-P) is going in as soon as some overlooked parts come in

old aw70
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while waiting for the parts to arrive I decided to swap to power windows. I haven't found any decent front door cards in blue so I used black ones from a parts car.
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also installed 2 out of 3 map lights that I have while completely ruining the b pillar trim.
front light has the rubber spacer and headliner protector
rear has just the while clip - Again thanks to "prof" for hooking me up with this setup
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reran some wires correctly since I had "most" of the dash appart
swaped in my spare 10 bar and volt "r-sport" gauges so I can sell my old ones.
also replaced "turbo" gauge for "economy" gauge since this wont be a turbo anytime soon...
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scored a NOS temp gauge on ebay but for the 7 or 9 series for stupid cheap.
Thinking about running it next to the eq when the "r sport" cluster will be installed
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I want to make a cover for it so that it will match and be protected, any suggestions what to make it from?
 
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yes but the 20oz "Circle K" coffee cups don't fit there very well... and spill
plus when my wife drives how would I reach there to drink her coffee

I just got the pilot bearing retainerclip you sent me - thanks again.
 
Good to see all the progress on this wagon, really coming together. I have been trying to figure out a way to install my Bentley Map lights without cutting or putting holes in anything.....not working in my favor yet, but I am glad to see them installed in your car. They are easy to hook up right, one wire goes to fuse panel and the other is a ground, right?
 
Good to see all the progress on this wagon, really coming together. I have been trying to figure out a way to install my Bentley Map lights without cutting or putting holes in anything.....not working in my favor yet, but I am glad to see them installed in your car. They are easy to hook up right, one wire goes to fuse panel and the other is a ground, right?

yeah the front I had to run a ground wire because plastic was to be in the way:oops: but the rear one grounds itself on the c pillar ( no ground wire needed) I ran both lamps on the same '+.' Spliced them together so I would have one less wire behind the dash to deal with

just mount it already, they are small holes (unless you break the crappy b pillar trim) that will have that lamp mounted "forever"

still undecided if I want them live all the time like the dome light or power from key on.
- I dont want to turn key on when ie camping but at the same time I dont want to forget to leave a light on.
 
small update:

I had to reflow some solder joints in my radio. Driver side front speaker would go in and out and then the passenger side finally stopped working (after 3 months)
This is very common on other volvo radios. It's a pain to get to this part since you have to unsolder a bunch of wires and take just about every circuit board out. So don't trow your old radio just fix it
bonus:nod:: inside the radio I found the missing "LO/DX" button that was gone since before I found it at a yard
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I have to go and pick up a nice b230 head from a local JY since 122power wants to horde his b230 head:pee:
2 of my exhaust studs broke off in cylinder #4 and I failed at pulling them out while on the car.
I dont want the car down so I will drive like this until this head comes back from machine shop.
I will probably port it a bit also and install the "m" cam (if thats the correct name of it)

No need to swap in the 58k engine because this one runs fine and burns no oil at 280k

pictures of installed efan and a stupid cone filter to fallow.
I installed a cone filter in preparation of installing 240 turbo oil cooler. The NA box is in the way and this filter was $3
 
I'd leave the T cam in there for the low down grunt.

Where most of these engines work 99% of the time.

An M is definitely a step backwards in every way.
 
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