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Old 10-21-2020, 11:43 AM   #1
fatcatbestcat
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Default 144 Engine removal - suggestions?

Hi all,

Anyone following my build thread will know that I have enough problems pertaining to my engine... I think I'm at the point where it's going to have to come out to make any further progress.

This would be my first time pulling an engine from a car, and I wanted to know if anyone had any useful tips. I suppose now would be time to ask my four biggest questions on the subject.
  1. Roughly how much does a B20 weigh?
  2. Should I be removing the front valence to do this?
  3. Is it possible to remove only the engine, leaving my M41 in place?
  4. I'm getting a lot of conflicting info on whether or not I need to remove the intake/exhaust manifolds to pull it out... it'd be great if someone could clear it up for me.

I expect to be asking a bunch of dumb questions as usual, so bear with me.

Thanks again.
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Old 10-21-2020, 11:50 AM   #2
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@ 325 # for the long block.

Yes it comes out much easier without the transmission attached but you need to pull the trans first.
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Old 10-21-2020, 11:59 AM   #3
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Separate the transmission from the bell housing, then lift the engine straight out without having to remove the radiator support. Should be able to leave the manifolds on too.
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Old 10-21-2020, 01:13 PM   #4
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It has been so long since I did this!

To make life easier, get one of these:

https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...er/A-p8879793e

I didn't have a shop crane. I used a block and tackle with suitable reenforcements to the garage rafters. This required that I remove the hood because it was in the way of the block and tackle. If you have a shop crane and the engine leveler I don't think you need to remove the hood.

To make life easier, I removed the head from the engine and mounted the leveler into the head bolt holes. The head was going to come off anyway so why not make the lift smaller? I think I removed the block and transmission in one piece. Because I did not have a shop crane, I lifted the the engine up after tilting everything and then rolled the car backwards out of the way and then lowered the assembly to the floor. Because I was doing a whole bunch of work on the car I had the front valence removed. That made removal of the block and transmission using my fixed block and tackle much easier. If you have a shop crane and separate the transmission before removal there would be no need to remove the front valence.
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Old 10-21-2020, 01:42 PM   #5
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I've pulled them with the trans, and without. It's perhaps slightly easier with the trans, as long as you can jack the car up some - enough to let the whole shebang lean back enough to come out. It helps to have the valance off in that case.

Or just unbolt the bellhousing, support the trans with a jack, and wiggle the engine up and forward until it comes loose, then it can come pretty much straight up and out and you can leave the valance in place (although remove the rad).

It helps immensely to have a load leveler on your hoist. I've done it without and it's far more difficult. You just need to tilt it in varying degrees as it comes out (and back in).
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Old 10-21-2020, 09:41 PM   #6
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I lifted the the engine up after tilting everything and then rolled the car backwards
Right... I should probably explain my situation a little bit better.



This is my garage. The car is currently about a foot from the wall on every side. I'm also not sure I trust the brakes on this enough to push it anywhere without killing someone (or myself).

But for now, I think the "unbolt bellhousing and pull engine out" idea seems to safest to me.
As far as securing the engine is concerned, is there a preferred method? I was rather hoping not to have to take the cylinder head back off, but if that's safer than wrapping the thing in ratchet straps, I suppose I'll have to go for that.

Still trying to find a place to rent a hoist from that will deliver it. I don't want to have to rent a uhaul truck...
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Old 10-21-2020, 10:02 PM   #7
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PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE 1 Ton Capacity Foldable Shop Crane



Sell it on CL for $100 when you're done and profit again.
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Old 10-21-2020, 10:02 PM   #8
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I've used either a manifold stud on the back passenger corner, or that cylinder head bolt. And one of the bolts on the head in the front that faces forward, used for an A/C idler pulley? I just bolt through the chains on my load leveler.

I wouldn't use ratchet straps, you really don't want it slipping loose and falling down.
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Old 10-21-2020, 10:08 PM   #9
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This is about like the one I got many years ago: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-TON-FOLDI...QAAOSw8n5dLlet

Hoists twice as much, which basically means you can extend the arm further to reach into the engine bay more easily. They only lift the max rated weight with the arm all the way in.
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Old 10-22-2020, 01:20 AM   #10
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There are four specific mounting points on the engine block for attaching lifting chains. They are listed in the Volvo 140 shop manual. If you don't have a shop manual it should be here in the engine rebuild section

http://www.volvotips.com/index.php/1...ervice-manual/

If you can't find it I will scrounge mine out of the garage and give you a description of the 'official' mounting points in the morning.

It looks like your hood is off already. Since rolling the car does not appear to be an option I think you need to acquire a shop / engine crane for the removal. Given the state of disassembly I would be inclined to pull off the front valence. There are only a few bolts left anyway and it will make it easier to get the engine out.

The engine cranes from Harbor Freight (and a pile of others) typically come knocked down in a couple of large cardboard boxes
(see video in the link below).

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-...ane-61858.html

Heavy; but, two people and a car with a knock down back seat to extend the trunk area should get it home without a problem.
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Old 10-22-2020, 12:29 PM   #11
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I've always dropped the tailshaft of the trans 3-4", tipped the engine back, and using a load leveler and hoist went forward until the input shaft cleared then straight up.

Most recently, I just went straight up until the bellhousing was against the firewall (all but the bottom bolts removed), placed a jack under the bellhousing, removed the remaining bolts and pulled the engine forward, up, forward, up, forward, up... until it was out.

If youre stripping it for a full build, pop the head off and use those to lift it, pull the water pump, and remove all the oil pan bolts. Itll take a little more time, but less shaking, cussing at the dented oil pan, and shaking some more.
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Old 10-24-2020, 01:47 PM   #12
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I prefer taking engine out with gearbox. Patient here seems to be 67-71 so with long stick, (short gear box)

Can't you rent a engine cherry picker?
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Old 10-24-2020, 08:09 PM   #13
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Patient here seems to be 67-71 so with long stick, (short gear box)
The car's a '67, but the previous owner swapped in the engine and transmission from a 142E. I always get them mixed up, but it's the one with the shifter mounting point alllllll the way back.

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Can't you rent a engine cherry picker?
Actually, since I forsee having the engine out a few times in the future, I straight-up just bought one. Going to my local Princess Auto to pick it up tomorrow.

Trouble is - I don't have a truck. Time to see if I can fit a 210 lb package in the back of my Jetta.
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Old 10-25-2020, 04:34 AM   #14
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Assemble the hoist where you buy it, then tow it home.
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Old 10-25-2020, 12:56 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by fatcatbestcat View Post
The car's a '67, but the previous owner swapped in the engine and transmission from a 142E. I always get them mixed up, but it's the one with the shifter mounting point alllllll the way back.
Not a function of the model. Its a function of the year. The 1971 and '72 140 E (or GL) models had the mile long shifter mounted directly on the top of the box. In 1973 all the 140 models received an interior make over which included a short shifter mounted on a rear extension. However, I believe the rear mount shifter mechanism can be fitted to the earlier box so you could have a hybrid.
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Old 10-25-2020, 01:24 PM   #16
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Assemble the hoist where you buy it, then tow it home.
I know nothing about Canadian towing regulations, but I doubt the RCMP would consider this a trailer.



Still, it may be fun to find out.
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Old 10-25-2020, 07:17 PM   #17
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I know nothing about Canadian towing regulations, but I doubt the RCMP would consider this a trailer.



Still, it may be fun to find out.
Not to worry! With those tiny little wheels and low rider ground clearance it would never make it past the exit ramp of the parking lot at my local Princess Auto.
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Old 10-25-2020, 08:09 PM   #18
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Uhaul truck might be the solution for now.
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Old 10-25-2020, 08:46 PM   #19
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Did you get a load leveler? 20 or 30 bucks more, but it makes it soooooo much easier. Almost like cheating.
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Old 10-26-2020, 12:47 AM   #20
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I've removed the engine and transmission together on a 140, it wasn't too bad, you need to remove the radiator and fan as I seem to recall.
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