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Accumulators in, still problematic

llama

Active member
Joined
Nov 15, 2007
Location
baltimore
Ok, so the accumulator is in thanks to Will and me, but i am still having the same problem. Assuming the accumulator towery gave me is good, where should i look next?

Edit: The problem for those who are just joining us. 84' 244 turbo. When warm or slightly warm you must crank the motor excessively to get it to start. It will crank then sputter a second and die. Then again and again. When it finzally starts firing it sounds like it is only running on 2 or 3 cylinders and slightly sputters. The rpms then return to normal and everything is fine and it runs perfect.
 
Sputtering when cranking while hot

look...up? or did you post while i edited?

Had the same problem...CIS has to have a continuous fuel supply... Injectors need 85 psi to open up...So check your check valve on your fuel pump under the car...That keeps fuel from returning to the tank...Injectors could be leaking "bad seals" or old injectors... My problem was resolved when I replaced the accumulator with a new one... What happens is fuel pressure drops injectors close when that happens you needed to crank until pressure returns to 85 psi and injectors open and spray fuel...Of course this doesn't happen when cold do to the cold start injector....Remember this is a closed system and when you have a leak it will be apparent during a hot start after a short shut done time...
 
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Ok, so the accumulator is in thanks to Will and me, but i am still having the same problem. Assuming the accumulator towery gave me is good, where should i look next?

Edit: The problem for those who are just joining us. 84' 244 turbo. When warm or slightly warm you must crank the motor excessively to get it to start. It will crank then sputter a second and die. Then again and again. When it finzally starts firing it sounds like it is only running on 2 or 3 cylinders and slightly sputters. The rpms then return to normal and everything is fine and it runs perfect.

Have you tried adjusting the mixture?
I had a 82 245 turbo that used to do the same thing till i adjusted it a little bit, better hot starts, a even idle not surging.
 
The most basic first test is main fuel pressure, 110-120 psi. Then I would pull the injectors and place them in jars and look for a good spray pattern in all of them with the pumps bypassed. This will tell if you are at least close to being in range. Moving the air plate to vary the spray and note for equal volume of collected gas.

All k-jet is interrelated with pressure, nothing works well on mine unless everything works and then it works fine. If possible look at the individual pressure points of the system. As above the fuel pressure regulator is important. Do not forget about vacuum leaks as that is easy to check with engine stater fluid.
 
my mind hurts from all this CIS stuff. I will check the valve under the car tomorrow. where is it located under there? had the assembly down tonight but didn't bother looking for or at the check valve.
 
It is built into the output fitting of the fuel pump. I would not check it that way. Check it when your car has been off for awhile. Crack open the input line to your fuel filter with a rag under it. If a lot of fuel spurts out your accumulator and check valve are ok. If a little bit spurts out, like on Lh fuel injection, you check valve is probably ok but your accumulator is bad. If almost nothing comes out your check valve is probably bad.

Have you checked the fuse and relay? My 84 turbo used to stall out when it was hot and it was the relay overheating. Every turbo relay wiring harness I have seen is melted and has high resistance.
 
I chased this problem for a couple of years on my 85 244ti. It turned out to be loose connection at the ECU. Use a small screw driver to unlock each wire from the connector (mark them so you can put them back in correct order) one at a time. Insert screw driver in where the wire goes into the connector push the tab down to release and pull out wire.
Once you get the wire out you can test to see if any are loose. Now take a pear of needle nose pliers and squease the sides of the spade so it makes a tighter fit.That's where my problem was.
You should also do this to the Fuel Pump Relay(a cause of HOT relay)because that two can be a Hot Start Problem.
Good Luck,Charlie
 
Those symptoms are exactly what happens when the fuel pressure is leaking down too soon after you turn off the engine. This can happen at a variety of places: the check valve on the pump, the CPR, the injectors, the o-ring on the pressure plunger in the fuel distributor... If the accumulator was itself leaking, then replacing it would likely fix it, but apparently it was not. If the leak is somewhere else, the accumulator will not overcome it to maintain pressure.

If you get a pressure gauge and read up on the diagnostic procedure in the greenbook, you can find the leak.
 
I chased this problem for a couple of years on my 85 244ti. It turned out to be loose connection at the ECU. Use a small screw driver to unlock each wire from the connector (mark them so you can put them back in correct order) one at a time. Insert screw driver in where the wire goes into the connector push the tab down to release and pull out wire.
Once you get the wire out you can test to see if any are loose. Now take a pear of needle nose pliers and squease the sides of the spade so it makes a tighter fit.That's where my problem was.
You should also do this to the Fuel Pump Relay(a cause of HOT relay)because that two can be a Hot Start Problem.
Good Luck,Charlie

This sounds like a good Idea.

He's having battery issues too and perhaps there is a drain on this somewhere..
 
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