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240 High-Amp Alternator Belt Idler Pulley Project

RECLOCKING the Delco (CS130D version) Mechman.

Remove the front pulley. Mine was a 22 mm nut I spun off with an impact wrench.

Then remove these three nuts (8 mm socket). Remove the output post nut also.

That back plastic cover will then lift off. If it's tight or hanging up on the studs, give it some force.
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Remove these bolts. There are four of them (1/4 inch socket).
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Now the case cane be split. It may be tight. I put the front shaft on a piece of wood and tapped the case downward with a plastic mallet and it slowly separated and eventually came apart.

Turn case to reclock to your preferred position, re-insert the bolts, and slowly tap it back together until the bolts can be threaded. You can use the bolts to cinch it back together.
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I always had an issue with my cascading efan relays causing my stereo to undervolt in my ac equipped 242 in Tucson Weather (110+)

Actually, I used a properly sized fan, and I didnt need 145 amps at idle.
 
Lord_Athlon said:
I always had an issue with my cascading efan relays causing my stereo to undervolt in my ac equipped 242 in Tucson Weather (110+)

Actually, I used a properly sized fan, and I didnt need 145 amps at idle.
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I don't think I need it either, but it's nice to know it's there if I do. But maybe you actually DiD need 145 amps at idle, since I dont have undervolt issues anymore.
 
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dbarton said:
I don't hink I need it either, but it's nice to know it's there if I do. But maybe you actually DiD need 145 amps at idle, since I dont have undervolt issues.
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Just messing with you. What you needed was a modern hairpin stator alternator, which probably didn't exist yet. Since that seems to be the difference in my car between a hot voltage drop and no voltage drop at 14.7v.
Dave
 
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Dave, awesome progress. What about the idea of using a toothed pulley cut to match the toothed belt? If that would work it would be simpler that adding an extra pulley/tensioner. Would there be too much wear on the belts caused by the engagement?
 
pwschuh said:
Dave, awesome progress. What about the idea of using a toothed pulley cut to match the toothed belt? If that would work it would be simpler that adding an extra pulley/tensioner. Would there be too much wear on the belts caused by the engagement?
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From what I can find a cog drive system would need a special cog belt and cog pulleys, similar to a modern supercharger belt drive. If you mean something just for the alternator that could engage the cogs on a standard v-belt, it doesnt exist. It would be a custom prototype part that's never been done as far I know.

I know in years past you could have pulleys knurled or machined to create more friction. Those services no longer exist that I can find.

So for now this will be the experiment du joir. If it doesnt work out, then I can revisit other experiments.

During my many experiments, one thing that I found helps is just moving the alternator further from the engine, which this mod does anyway. I find that gradually increases belt wrap, and I did see a SLIGHT improvement from a 925 mm belt, which had almost no traction, to a 950, which was better, to a 975, which I most recently had and worked for a while until it didn't. This pulley idea was born from that progression.
Dave
 
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pwschuh said:
Would there be too much wear on the belts caused by the engagement?
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Thinking further, I think this *could* be done in a similar way as how a round tooth timing belt engages. It would need to be very precise and you would need to study a few different brands of v-belts with cogs to see how consistent they are, unless you plan to stay with one brand of belt forever. I don't think it would be simple though.

EDIT: I was looking a some v-belts with the cog pattern in my garage. I have a few different ones and some from different manufacturers. All cogs appear rounded, but they definitely are not consistently spaced. Some have more space between the cogs than others and some have larger cogs, so this kind of idea could be possible as long as you used the cog belt it was designed for. Otherwise pretty difficult.
Dave
 
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gsellstr said:
Gotcha. My Mechman is just the normal cast case.
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Probably like this one? My old Mechman 170 I bought back in 2010. Worked better than any other alternator up to that point, but not as good as the new one. I know hairpin style stators existed then, but I had no clue about them or if Mechman offered it. This old one has the normal stator.
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Did some driving today. One of the "concerns" I came across with a back-side idler was possible elevated temperatures of the belt being flexed backwards. So I drove it for a decent long test drive and got things good and hot. Lots of high rpm driving too.

Then I checked IR temperature readings of all the belts. The belts on this idler had no unusual temperatures. All belts were within a degree or two with a max reading so far of 175 deg F.
Dave
 
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Yup, thats what mine looks like but it is the 170A unit. I was fighting some issues, unrelated, but I did a load test on it, found it would drop .2v at idle, with 125A load, with an underdrive pulley. Pretty damned impressive.
 
gsellstr said:
Yup, thats what mine looks like but it is the 170A unit. I was fighting some issues, unrelated, but I did a load test on it, found it would drop .2v at idle, with 125A load, with an underdrive pulley. Pretty damned impressive.
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Yes, that is impressive. When did you buy yours? Was it around 2010 when I bought mine or later?
Dave
 
I have 250 amp ford power stroke alternator in my 240 volvo, at first I only put one v belt on :lol:, anyways I made an aluminum pulley for 2 belts and have been runing that for years.
 
gsellstr said:
Mine was actually gifted, but it was purchased around 2012-2013 I think.
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So yours may be a mystery alternator too.

I think there was a serious lack of solid info when these Mechman were offered. I was originally told the one I bought was a 140a unit (although I never got any documentation or a part number). It was $300. You were told you have a 170a unit?

I found the below info in a Mechman catalog online. That's my exact alternator (as far as the case anyway). G series 3-phase unit available later in 240 or 270 amp.

I asked Mechman and they don't seem to know either. No one knows squat.

I'm not obsessing over it, but just curious. Maybe I'll sell it, but who wants an alternator with so many mysteries?
Dave
 

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Eric knows the dirt on them since he helped develop them. I think there was a different in regulator plug on the back between the 140 and the 170's. Mine is also cast DR44 on the front. I believe the ones MM was selling were hopped up 140's. but honestly it's been too damned long. lol

I'd rock a 140 or a 170 on the Dodge anyway, step up from the 116 it has. lol
 
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