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S/V/C XC70 Haldex 3 AOC Driveshaft removal ?

Pillow

Pillow

Sleazebag 7-9 Owner
Joined
Dec 19, 2015
Location
NoVA
Hey TB!

I am a little stuck on removing the rear driveshaft flange from the rear differential. The "Cup" that is the driveshaft flange sits in is impossible to get a prybar it to get some leverage to pop it out of the cup.

2006 XC70
Haldex 3 / AOC

The exhaust is dropped and out of the way.
All 6 bolts removed.
Center driveshaft carrier housing is dropped.

What is the secret to getting this driveshaft to pop out?

Here is the service kit that I am using to get the AWD working again:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vo...xc70-xc90-genuine-volvo-kit-haldexservicekit1

Here is a great video how-to on the AOC service itself for anyone having AWD issues which applies to many of the XC/S/V lines:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWVF-zEYNgg

FWIW the later Haldex 4/5+ is different design without a "cup".

Any help or tips are appreciated!

Thanks!
 
A few licks with a weighted rubber mallet. (the orange ones) No metal BFH yet though as I did not want to mangle anything.

I am a little apprehensive on heat as the "CV" collar is rubber and I do not want to melt anything as the driveshaft parts are INSANELY expensive.

Driveshaft rebuild kit $300!!!:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-cv-joint-kit-xc70-xc90-v70-v50-s40-s60-31216175

So yeah, I am trying to be as delicate as possible as to not hurt anything on disassembly. Granted reassembly should be a snap.

Thanks!
 
Note from the video originator on the same question:

No just Brute force and a pry bar just take care not the collapse the back dome wear the bearings are located.
Click to expand...

... More BFH... Yeah, more BFH! LOL

g1407306469699690147.jpg
 
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Air hammer! I worked with a guy that blasted suspension apart all day long with his air hammer. Knuckles, ball joints, etc.

I also worked for a guy that loved air hammering/chisel mechanical fans off of water pumps. He didn't mind fudging up the nut. Lame. Then he would air chisel it back on. Then, once, a water pump shortly thereafter fell apart on the customer and the belt fell off and she lost power steering and couldn't control the vehicle. Nobody was hurt. I dont work for that guy anymore.
 
If I remember correctly, extra threaded holes are present on the flange attached to the diff. These holes do not line up with all of the holes on the drive shaft. If you get the right sized fastener, you can thread them into the flange and use them as jack screws. This will create a gap to help separate the driveshaft from the diff.
 
Turboschnauzer said:
If I remember correctly, extra threaded holes are present on the flange attached to the diff. These holes do not line up with all of the holes on the drive shaft. If you get the right sized fastener, you can thread them into the flange and use them as jack screws. This will create a gap to help separate the driveshaft from the diff.
Click to expand...

True, I did find one and am using a bolt to apply outward pressure from the rear.

No dice yet.

There is a metal/rubber collar that is on the Volvo that is not seen in the Ford application... I may just cut the collar off and then air hammer the CV out as I can get a nip on the outer edge w/o the collar in place.

Unbelievable PITA for what it is! LOL
 
I remove these all the time.

There are two holes without threads. Take a punch, bend it at 45 degree's . Put punch in hole and hammer. Even the most stuck ones come out with a couple beats.

Jordan
 
Finally finished the task on Saturday afternoon! PITA for what it was.

There are two holes without threads. Take a punch, bend it at 45 degree's . Put punch in hole and hammer. Even the most stuck ones come out with a couple beats.
Click to expand...

That was the key! Take a perfectly good long (longer the better) punch and bend the 2" end 30 degrees or so. Then place in the "service holes" and a couple of good whacks with the BFH and it comes free pretty easily.

Note: There are 4 service holes. Two are threaded like the CV bolts. Two are just blank holes ideal to use the punch.

The rust around the drive flange and CV are what "glues" it together. Nasty how water and gunk get in there and make life difficult.

t's not terribly abusive and you can put the chisel tip right at the seam and just rotate the DS as you use the gun.
Click to expand...

I used the air chisel to knock the flange out. Easy at that point.

The remainder of the project was cake after that. New Haldex 3 AOC pump, oil, and filter. At the same time I changed the rear differential and angle gear (front diff) oil with synthetic 75W-90. Both were in need of changing in a bad way at 166k! IDK if they had ever been touched. IMO a good every 100k service.

With the new Haldex 3 pump the AWD now functions once again! Note: no rear locker so it is really 3 wheel drive (on jack stands at least, IDK what Traction Control realistically does in action).

Thank you all for the assistance!
 
ZVOLV said:
Air hammer! I worked with a guy that blasted suspension apart all day long with his air hammer. Knuckles, ball joints, etc.

I also worked for a guy that loved air hammering/chisel mechanical fans off of water pumps. He didn't mind fudging up the nut. Lame. Then he would air chisel it back on. Then, once, a water pump shortly thereafter fell apart on the customer and the belt fell off and she lost power steering and couldn't control the vehicle. Nobody was hurt. I dont work for that guy anymore.
Click to expand...

Um thats how most everyone does it. The "tool" to do it also uses the air hammer but with a crows foot on the end. Never had an issue 1000ish water pumps later
 
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