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Old 08-09-2018, 03:32 AM   #26
Jack's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: The Ass Cheek Of History

I tip my hat to you fellas. After doing h3/h4 and having the same plastic covers, I still just squint my eyes looking for road lines, hopefully freshly painted so that I can point and pray my 245

even a few years ago if I truned high beams on I would get flashed (not boobies ) all the time. These days nothing... eyes dont get use to the dark and older car lights (even upgraded) appear dim.... get off my topless lawn

I need to upgrade my wiring. Thanks for doing the hard work
85 245 | 82 242| 75 245| 69 145 |66 122

Originally Posted by BritishBrick
Don’t bother, I would literally rather throw them away than give you the pleasure. I will never sell to you.
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Old 08-09-2018, 01:53 PM   #27
Cooks with motor oil
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: nut Sac, Cali

There are many mods to be had, but by far the best is a set of E codes AND a headlight relay harness. If you can afford to toss a couple hundred bucks at it, call Ray at Susquehanna Motorsports http://www.rallylights.com/

They can make you a custom headlight relay wire harness and walk you through installing it. They are the real deal and worth the $$. They use good quality connectors, wiring, heat shrink, etc.
1988 740 turbo wagon/squishmobile!
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Old 08-09-2018, 02:13 PM   #28
300+hp on the shelf club
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.

I have also bought from rallylights dot com and they have been good to buy from. I bought a summit racing harness which was in the middle price wise. It was about $45 with shipping. Gary suggested it and I am very happy with. I put that on the 93 wagon. When I buy the individual parts like the excellent hella headlight connectors. I got them from rally lights.

As John mentioned above the 100 amp denso alternator is a nice update as well. I run a denso on both of my signature cars. 100 for the wagon and 80 for the turbo. Some 80 amp versions have the smaller B+ to match up to the older 240 wiring harness.
1982 242 turbo. 340k miles. Good stuff and lots of rust.
1993 245 Classic, 420k miles, enem V15. IPD bars and chassis braces. Simons sport exhaust from Scandix. sbabbs ezk chip. Been a good road warrior. Genuine Volvo rebuilt leaky M47.
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Old 08-09-2018, 06:56 PM   #29
LH-Jet & Carb Free Zone
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Duvall, WA

It's also easy to modify the smaller ring terminal to fit the larger stud. Take a M8 bolt and run it through at an angle, bending the terminal slightly. Then, take a pair of needlenose pliers and squeeze the metal enough so it slides onto the bolt perfectly. When you install the ring terminal onto the alternator, it'll slide on easily and still make contact all the way around. The Denso alternators also have a smaller case than the equivalent old school Bosch alternators. The 80 amp is slightly bigger than a 55 and the 100 is about the same size as an 80 amp Bosch.


1982 242Ti - black, M46. 1985 245Ti - blue, M46. Formerly Blue245Ti, 245GT-Turbo, and, originally 242GT-Ti.
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Old 08-09-2018, 09:39 PM   #30
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ellijay

Its late and dark and to avoid walking a hundred yards my question is 'should the low beams and high beams have different focus properties in the front glass?'
I checked the high beam/low beam H4651/H4656 front lens. They are very different. That leads me to believe that the available conversion lens that are all the same are a real compromise. The conversion lens appear to be similar to the low beam H4656 which would mean that the high beam would be disbursed all over rather than focused forward and down.

Any other options out there?

1982 Volvo 245 with a Ford 302 V8

Ford V8 Conversion Manual -

Bertone Restoration - http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=256460
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Old 08-10-2018, 05:14 AM   #31
LH-Jet & Carb Free Zone
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Duvall, WA

^Buy only two H4 conversion lenses, and two H1 conversion lenses. Problem solved. Avoid the H4 conversion lenses with the "SAE M" mark on them. Those are meant for a motorcycle and, therefore, have the cutoff line that goes up to the left in addition to the right. Lots of light, but, not unlike a pair of DOT 1986-93 lamps, they kinda spread it everywhere. The ones that don't have that mark on them have a flat cutoff to the left, then it goes diagonally upward to the right, to light up street signs.

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