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Old 08-07-2018, 07:14 AM   #1
TurboDenny
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Default GM Automagic Behind A Whiteblock.

Does anyone currently have a working example of a GM automatic trans behind a whiteblock? I'm itching to swap a T6 into my 244 rather than a 16v, but I would like to use the TH400 sitting on my bench. It seems every other trans combination is out there, and I realize most people would much rather have a manual transmission, but at the strip autos are nice.

I know KL Racing sells an adapter plate, but they don't have anything for the converter & flexplate. I've also heard that the KL piece may be too thin causing clearance issues with the converter.
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Old 08-07-2018, 02:17 PM   #2
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http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=257384
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Old 08-07-2018, 04:27 PM   #3
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http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...t=rock+crawler but your best bet is his IG account: https://www.instagram.com/fj401ton/

KLracing adapter, TH350. Says it worked great, just had a to cut a notch in the bellhousing for the crank sensor wire (the sensor sits below the BH so you may want to consider making enough of a notch make it removable). I'm planning the same thing for my T6 build, T6 / 4l80e.

edit: here's a picture on IG of it bolted together: https://www.instagram.com/p/BjlgBPnn...en-by=fj401ton
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Old 08-07-2018, 04:36 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Hank Scorpio View Post
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...t=rock+crawler but your best bet is his IG account: https://www.instagram.com/fj401ton/

KLracing adapter, TH350. Says it worked great, just had a to cut a notch in the bellhousing for the crank sensor wire (the sensor sits below the BH so you may want to consider making enough of a notch make it removable). I'm planning the same thing for my T6 build, T6 / 4l80e.

edit: here's a picture on IG of it bolted together: https://www.instagram.com/p/BjlgBPnn...en-by=fj401ton
That's a pretty wicked rig he has! Thanks for the info.

Good to know the KL Racing adapter does indeed work. He mentions using a Deeworks torque converter adapter, is he referring the one used on redblocks? I have one sitting here still wrapped up. Perhaps I need to dig out the whiteblock flexplate and see how similar they are.

EDIT: It appears the whiteblock and redblock flexplate are almost identical in dimensions. Here's a Deeworks adapter stuffed inside the tone ring of the whiteblock flexplate. I'm pretty sure the aluminum of the adapter is going to fubar the crank signal, which is easily remedied. Having the crank sensor inside the bellhousing is very inconvenient anyhow.

The torque converter pattern is obviously different having 4 holes on the redblock and 6 on the whiteblock. Nothing drilling some holes wont solve. I'll have to dig out my B6284 tomorrow and see how different the pilot is in the crankshaft.


Last edited by TurboDenny; 08-07-2018 at 05:08 PM..
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Old 08-07-2018, 05:12 PM   #5
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Dumb question the other way, the SBC and LS bolt pattern are the same except the newer motors have the extra bolt at the top of the bellhousing right?
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Old 08-07-2018, 05:20 PM   #6
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Dumb question the other way, the SBC and LS bolt pattern are the same except the newer motors have the extra bolt at the top of the bellhousing right?
Correct, and the LS engines don't use one of the bolt holes just to the right of the top hole.

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Old 08-07-2018, 11:42 PM   #7
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Correct, and the LS engines don't use one of the bolt holes just to the right of the top hole.

Agreed, use 5 out of the 7 holes and you are in business.
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Old 08-08-2018, 12:26 AM   #8
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For the bolts on the TC adapter to converter, thelostartof was having issues, not with the adapter being aluminum, but rather with the bolt itself when lined up with one of the windows. I played around with an idea in the garage that very well may work to resolve that as well, though it hasn't been tested yet. Putting 2 layers of aluminum tape on the backside of the tone ring helped mask the magneticcharacteristics caused by that bolt.

That is awesome that the TC adapter should work for the whiteblock as well, just be sure to check the distance as well, for converter placement before you get too far.
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Old 08-08-2018, 12:31 AM   #9
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I ordered a bellhousing adapter from KL today. When it shows up ill bolt it all together and take some measurements.

Been talking with a gentleman on Instagram today, and he had a converter made that bolts directly to the flexplate. It looks good, and it's been done before, so most if not all of the work is already done. Would also eliminate any issues with the crank trigger signal. Ill call them tomorrow to get an idea on pricing.
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Old 08-08-2018, 12:48 AM   #10
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That is indeed the other option, even for the redblocks. Those that looked into it found the cost was a good bit more than the TC adapter though, especially when you start talking high end converters or needing to swap one out for a different stall speed.

Still worth the research for sure, just throwing out a little food for thought.
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Old 08-09-2018, 11:04 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Agreed, use 5 out of the 7 holes and you are in business.
Since it would be bolting to the adapter plate anyways, probably wouldn't be a big deal to just drill and tap the extra 2 holes anyways I'd imagine. Thanks for the info!
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Old 08-10-2018, 01:55 AM   #12
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The adapter plate has all of the holes for the TH400. No drilling or tapping needed.

If you bolted a TH400 to an LS only 5/6 will be there, and you'd have to drill and tap the hole circled in the picture above. The top hole will not be used as there is no hole in the bellhousing.
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Old 08-10-2018, 05:25 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboDenny View Post
The adapter plate has all of the holes for the TH400. No drilling or tapping needed.

If you bolted a TH400 to an LS only 5/6 will be there, and you'd have to drill and tap the hole circled in the picture above. The top hole will not be used as there is no hole in the bellhousing.
Gotcha. That makes more sense!
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Old 08-10-2018, 05:44 PM   #14
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I would love to have one of the new 8L90 or 8L45 behind a redblock or whiteblock in my 240.
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Old 08-10-2018, 05:56 PM   #15
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I would love to have one of the new 8L90 or 8L45 behind a redblock or whiteblock in my 240.
Those transmissions are absolutely massive. Roughly the same size as a 6L90 and they dwarf a 4L80. Stuffing one in a 240 would require a custom trans tunnel more than likely.

The 8L45 may be a good bit smaller, I'm not sure.
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Old 08-10-2018, 06:32 PM   #16
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It weighs 35 lbs less than an 8l90

6l50 vs 4L isn't that much different in size. I have massage/replaced tunnels before.





https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...80e-6l90e.html
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Old 08-10-2018, 06:35 PM   #17
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That said I have never actually seen an 8l transmission...
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Old 08-10-2018, 06:50 PM   #18
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They are awesome transmissions. I've driven the 8L90 in the c7 Z06 and the 10 speed in the new ZL1. Would definitely be cool to have one.

Not sure how tuning them would happen. They are quite integrated into the car via CAN bus.
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Old 08-16-2018, 07:19 PM   #19
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Received my adapter from KL Racing today. 1 week from placing the order to my doorstep is impressive to me. It's a pretty nice piece. My complaint is the threaded holes for the trans bellhousing are M8x1.25, and that seems a bit small. I'll probably drill and tap them for a larger bolt. Other than that I had to clearance the very top of it a little to clear the B6284t cylinder head. I'm unsure if a rwd head will have any issues.



The DeeWorks converter adapter is pretty close to working. The crank pilot is a different diameter, the pattern to bolt it to the flexplate is different, and it's about 1/4-3/8" too shallow to reach the converter. Roger could probably make some very simple modifications to his existing adapter and have a working solution. (Calling Mr. DeeWorks )

No adapter. The converter is sagging a bit here, so it's a bit more exaggerated.


Terrible picture, but you get an idea of how close the adapter is to the converter.
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Old 08-16-2018, 09:11 PM   #20
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Good info on the adapter! I'm sure Roger could mod up the drawing a bit on those.
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Old 08-16-2018, 10:23 PM   #21
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there's supposed to be some "gap" there, that doesn't look all that bad. the diameter on the adapter could be changed fairly easily.

by gap I mean when you're putting a trans in a car, typically the converter slides back forwards to bolt up to the flex plate. I think they actually call it 'float'


I am intrigued by this though, good info!
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Old 08-16-2018, 11:02 PM   #22
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Correct. Normally 1/8" is a recommended gap for most GM transmissions.

I'm going to drill the flexplate to fit the adapter, and find someone to machine some spacers 1/4" or 5/16" to move the adapter off the flexplate. Might help with the converter bolts interfering with the crank sensor as well. Then just machine something for the pilot bushing.

That particular converter is a dual pattern 11.5 & 10.75". The converter I have made will only be the smaller pattern.
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Old Yesterday, 12:11 PM   #23
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Check out Fastenall for machined spacers.
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Old Yesterday, 03:55 PM   #24
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Looks good. What adapter did you use, slanted or vertical?

Do you still have some rearward travel left for the converter? My only real worry is once you do the spacers you won’t have any slip left.
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Old Yesterday, 06:51 PM   #25
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This is the vertical adapter.

The converter is sitting all the way back in the photos. The Gap is a bit larger than it looks, ~.300" or more. I'd like to see half that.

The issue I'm seeing is getting the spacers in place. The adapter is designed to be bolted to the converter first, then bolted to the flexplate. Getting the spacers lined up while threading the bolts in will be a tedious task. Ideally this would all be one piece
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