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Excessive oil thrown from rear dipstick tube? B200FT

105Charlie

New member
Joined
Jan 21, 2018
Hi,

When I come on boost I'm shooting oil straight out the rear dipstick tube (not sure why there is even two, engine is swapped into a 343).

I have cleaned out the PCV box and am running that into a catch can. Is there a better way to allow the engine to breath as I assume if I plug the dipstick tube it'll just throw the oil from another seal?

Cheers,
-Charlie
 
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It's apparently not able to vent properly. What is the crankcase vent hose routing? You don't really need a flame trap at all on a turbo car - it's the NA cars that dump the fumes back into the intake close enough to the manifold to theoretically allow a backfire to ignite back into the block. But on a turbo car - a flaming backfire isn't going to get through an intercooler and a turbo.

Or you have some major leakage past the rings - too much for the crankcase ventilation system. A compression test would help with a diagnosis there.
 
It's apparently not able to vent properly. What is the crankcase vent hose routing? You don't really need a flame trap at all on a turbo car - it's the NA cars that dump the fumes back into the intake close enough to the manifold to theoretically allow a backfire to ignite back into the block. But on a turbo car - a flaming backfire isn't going to get through an intercooler and a turbo.

Or you have some major leakage past the rings - too much for the crankcase ventilation system. A compression test would help with a diagnosis there.

Sorry my mistake, not the flametrap but the pcv box under the manifold - edited main post.

Currently have a line coming out of that into the catchcan with a filter on the can to vent. I will have to dig out the compression tester.
 
What do you mean, two? Dipstick tubes? There should be only one for the engine, if there is another one it's for the auto transmission.

That's what I assumed it was, it's been swapped into a 343 with a transaxle box. It does appear to go straight into the sump though?
 
Sorry my mistake, not the flametrap but the pcv box under the manifold - edited main post.

Currently have a line coming out of that into the catchcan with a filter on the can to vent. I will have to dig out the compression tester.

Take the oil cap off, and try blowing through that hose (disconnect it from the catch can). There should be practically no resistance at all.

The only time I ever had issues with oil coming out the dipstick was when all 4 cylinders had broken top rings and I was losing significant amounts of compression past them into the block, especially under boost. Only so much air can blow out of those PCV hoses/box without getting backed up some. And once it's backed up, it's going to come out somewhere, fixing the weakest point will just force it to find the next best spot.
 
That's what I assumed it was, it's been swapped into a 343 with a transaxle box. It does appear to go straight into the sump though?

Speaking of the 230FT, there's only one dipstick tube in the back near the firewall. Never came across a 200FT but I strongly assume it's the same.

I also agree to make a compression test. Some folks have installed a vented oil filler cap from a B18/20 and routed it back to the PCV system (including myself when my RMS was leaking). There's a thread somewhere on here.
 
Speaking of the 230FT, there's only one dipstick tube in the back near the firewall. Never came across a 200FT but I strongly assume it's the same.

I also agree to make a compression test. Some folks have installed a vented oil filler cap from a B18/20 and routed it back to the PCV system (including myself when my RMS was leaking). There's a thread somewhere on here.

That sounds interesting, I assume I can just tap the rocker cover and run that into the system? I had to trim the oil cap as there's basically no bonnet clearance.

There's one right near the front of the block and another at the back - one at the back is much longer.
 
You could, but odds are you're just treating a symptom, not the cause.

What's the history on the motor?

If it's blowing compression out of the block, it's probably only going to get worse. Maybe a faint chance that the rings are stuck from a lack of use/lack of spirited use(?) and might free up over time and start working better. But mostly, it's just going to get worse.
 
Tapping the valve cover without some sort of baffle will just push oil out of your new hole/hose. You'd be better off with the oil cap or figure out why the pressure isn't being relieved and/or why you have excessive crankcase pressure.

Edit: I just saw you didn't have room for the cap.
 
It has two dipsticks. 1) normal into the block as you will all know it (this one should be blanked off)
2nd one is into the 360 sump, you need to only use this one for correct oil level etc
 
I have vented the valve cover to an air/oil separator to Ford PCV valve to the intake manifold. The OE oil separator is vented to the turbo inlet. This puts a vacuum in the crankcase.
 
I have vented the valve cover to an air/oil separator to Ford PCV valve to the intake manifold. The OE oil separator is vented to the turbo inlet. This puts a vacuum in the crankcase.

Like full engine vacuum to the crankcase?

Do you have a controlled leak going into the crankcase like the Ford (and other oems) use?
 
Like full engine vacuum to the crankcase?

Do you have a controlled leak going into the crankcase like the Ford (and other oems) use?

The 3/8" fitting (Volvo OE from spare parts perhaps meant to supply vacuum to the climate control check valves) at the intake manifold is restricted, same restriction as the original 6 mm fitting that was connecting to the nipple fitting in the hose that was run from the oil breather box to the turbo inlet hose. It's a small amount of vacuum, but, enough of a vacuum to show up as a vacuum leak if there's a leak in the system.

The controlled vacuum leak would be from the air filter by way of the turbo inlet hose.
 
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