Waterpump clacking dumped all coolant.

Does it have a crank position sensor? Last time I did this job I must have bumped the coolant pipe that goes from the water pump to the heater core. Was just enough to mash the insulation and prevent it from starting in my case. Lot of cursing for a half an hour until it dawned on me.

It's a 1986 I believe it has L.H. I took the cap and rotor off to check to see if it was all gummed up with coolant steam or whatever. It was dry... then I put it backtogether clipped both of the clips in I guess the cap wasn't centred and I ****ing destroyed both the cap and the rotor. I'm so mad.


It was leaking coolant. I fixed the leak. Now it won't run past an idle. How do I jump the fuel pump so it runs all the time in ignition so I can test what sort of pressure I'm getting. I don't hear any noise coming from my tank. And the fuel pump is making a sound. But it sounds like it's pressurized.

Probably a blown headgasket.

Either that or '86 wires crumbling... CC first pull the plugs and see what they look like.

ZVOLV said:

Probably a blown headgasket.

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No sign of coolant in oil or vice versa, will idle all day. it does not over heat. No leaks of coolant. This is not a no start issue, its a wont run under load.

Shifted said:

Either that or '86 wires crumbling... CC first pull the plugs and see what they look like.

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The wiring could be. Someone has WRAPPED the looms with tight electrical tape. Which plugs would have been closest to the leaky waterpump....

Did coolant leak on the alternator? Could have shorted something out.

Compression test can't hurt. And check the plugs for signs of coolant fouling while in there.

I made the mistake of buying a $30 Oreilly water pump and after the third one in 6 months puked coolant out the weep hole, the head gasket finally let go.

It would likely show up as misfires, not a failure to rev. Failure to rev is commonly timing way off, air leak, or way too lean. Sure, wiring or weak spark may do it too.

Not enough info. Tests like compression, timing, current measurements may help. Bunk wiring cam cause weak current to ignition and fuel I ejection components and could cause this.

But when I hear coolant system failure and then problems with power immediately after, I start suspecting HG problems.

ZVOLV said:

Compression test can't hurt. And check the plugs for signs of coolant fouling while in there.

I made the mistake of buying a $30 Oreilly water pump and after the third one in 6 months puked coolant out the weep hole, the head gasket finally let go.

It would likely show up as misfires, not a failure to rev. Failure to rev is commonly timing way off, air leak, or way too lean. Sure, wiring or weak spark may do it too.

Not enough info. Tests like compression, timing, current measurements may help. Bunk wiring cam cause weak current to ignition and fuel I ejection components and could cause this.

But when I hear coolant system failure and then problems with power immediately after, I start suspecting HG problems.

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It did run after I did the water pump. So I did the waterpump. Then the car was not wanting to run or hold and idle. It needed to be started 10 times and me slowly ease the throttle to get it to get to operating temperature. The second it got to operating temperature is when all the issues of the starting went away. I started it... stopped it. Drove it around the block. There were a few hesitations at first and then once warmed up nothing. Voltage was 14.1 when I was checking all the fuses. i checked them because I think the fan wasnt working and i know that i need to move the fuse around to get it to work at times.

The fuel pump was sounding kind of weird. It was making this odd sort of pressurizing noise. Im going to check the pressure after the regulator I wanted to know how to jump the pump to get it to work. Also.... while the car was running I was trying to listen into the tank to hear if the intank pump is working. I couldnt hear anything. The inline pump is working but not the intank....

Prior to the waterpump going, on cold days the car would hesitate. It would have a hard time accelerating. So there were drivability issues.

So I need to rule out head gasket, fuel pumps, and ignition, after I rule those out I am going to have to look for wiring that was soaked in coolant steam that went everywhere. The alternator got a bunch of coolant on it. I was driving the car for 1km when I noticed a trail of liquid being left on the road and my temp gauge moving up to the red but NEVER entering the red.

I let the car cool down, and then started it... It was running fine. Had the tow truck drop me off home. Once again, was running fine. But after 2 days of that coolant soaking everywhere without a rinse.... it was not running as easy.


Was the fuel pumps on the way out before this? or is this something that has been damaged during the waterpump failure.

So.... when i get home.....

Fuel pressure test
Compression Test
Timing check if i can get running
mechanical timing test.

ALSO..... Its more likely to start if you run the start the starter longer than usual.. Like if the car started before in 2 cycles of the engine rotating, it needs 4 or 8 to start. It runs but the second you touch the gas at all... it will die.

Misfiring and running rough at idle?

I did a head and gasket on a 940 and after 3 trips to the field, having a similar issue, it turned out it was just a loose clamp on an intake hose.

Do a compression test, for sure, and it's worth practicing snap throttle and running compression tests while in there for practice and more data.

I am at work today with the 245. Yesterday I did tests:


Fuel pressure test - showed 0. Tried to jump the pumps between 6 and 4 fuse holders / fuses. Never heard anything.
Compression Test - 135 across all 4.
Timing check if i can get running (didnt do)
mechanical timing test. (Didnt do)

While checking fuel pressure I noticed that I had the intake hose after the MAF slip out from the maf. it was sucking in unmetered air.

put it back together and it drove with power again.

Here is my concern now. No fuel pressure after the regulator. My fuel pressure tester is just rubber hoses with clamps. I couldn't check the main rail, only the return.... anyways.... I have a fuel filter i bought.... if jumping 4 and 6 doesnt make the fuel pumps sing what is going on. In addition to this. While the car was running I pulled the fuse on 4 and 6.. the car ran for 10 minutes.

The car will run 'fine' with just the lift pump for awhile.

Pretty sure there won't be any pressure on the RETURN line, but I could be wrong.

If the engine is running just fine after you reinstalled the maf hose, you have nothing to worry about.

PromiseRing said:

The car will run 'fine' with just the lift pump for awhile.

Pretty sure there won't be any pressure on the RETURN line, but I could be wrong.

If the engine is running just fine after you reinstalled the maf hose, you have nothing to worry about.

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I got a fuel filter for the car, I will replace it during free time if i have any. the intank pump if dead should be replaced. I am curious if the previous owner/mechanic replaced the wiring to the relay so that fuse 6 and fuse 4 have been abandoned.

CoconutColin said:

I got a fuel filter for the car, I will replace it during free time if i have any. the intank pump if dead should be replaced. I am curious if the previous owner/mechanic replaced the wiring to the relay so that fuse 6 and fuse 4 have been abandoned.

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What I'm saying is, you obviously have sufficient (enough) fuel pressure if your engine starts and car drives like normal. Measuring pressure at the return after the regulator has already regulated pressure is just silly. It seems obvious to me that the return portion is rather low pressure. So your testing there was inconclusive of your actual fuel pressure at the rail.

That being said, yes, if the in tank pump is dead it should be replaced to increase longevity of your main pump.

Also when jumping the fuel pumps makes sure the fuse 4 is removed and 6 is still in place. Then jump each side and listen for the pumps. It's a good idea to have a helper listen for the tank pump.

PromiseRing said:

What I'm saying is, you obviously have sufficient (enough) fuel pressure if your engine starts and car drives like normal. Measuring pressure at the return after the regulator has already regulated pressure is just silly. It seems obvious to me that the return portion is rather low pressure. So your testing there was inconclusive of your actual fuel pressure at the rail.

That being said, yes, if the in tank pump is dead it should be replaced to increase longevity of your main pump.

Also when jumping the fuel pumps makes sure the fuse 4 is removed and 6 is still in place. Then jump each side and listen for the pumps. It's a good idea to have a helper listen for the tank pump.

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Oh okay,

The regulator is there to regulate excess pressure is it not? So lets say its set for 40 psi. If my pump produces 45 psi I should see 5 psi on the return? It wont tell me my working pressure but it will tell me if my pump is working under the regulated pressure.

I did it with fuse 4 removed and fuse 6 in place. then i did it with both in place. I wasnt anything with either combination.



I need to get the right fittings to put a fuel guage in there. Or some how permanently plumb in a fuel pressure gauge.

I'm not sure that's how that works. It can 'bleed off' that excess 5 psi but I don't think that equates to seeing 5 psi on the return line. The only way for pressure to build up on the return line is with a restriction. There is no restriction so it simply flows back into the tank.

Does the car run and drive normally now? If so at least your main pump is working. If you hear nothing when you jump them, either you're hard of hearing or perhaps you're using something non-conductive to jump them.

PromiseRing said:

Does the car run and drive normally now? If so at least your main pump is working. If you hear nothing when you jump them, either you're hard of hearing or perhaps you're using something non-conductive to jump them.

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The car sputters and struggles when it starts in the cold. Once it gets running for a bit it runs okay but if I step on it it hesitates.

Im going to fill the tank and try tomorrow morning. See how that works.

I dont hear anything when I jump them. But I hear the inline pump when the engine is running. Over the engine of course.

Well, my suspicion is that the pump in the tank isnt working at all and will eventually kill my inline pump. But... Ill try and get the right fittings and put a gauge on my fuel rail to see what the pressure is... because its heistating bad.

Eh, I don't think a dead intank pump will cause that much hesitation. Mine didn't. Car drove 100% normal until I was at 10,000 feet high and the fuel began to vaporize.

PromiseRing said:

Eh, I don't think a dead intank pump will cause that much hesitation. Mine didn't. Car drove 100% normal until I was at 10,000 feet high and the fuel began to vaporize.

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Thank you. Im going to replace the fuel filter and I'll see what it does, also i have a new set of ignition wires.

Unrelated but we will see. Ill also let the car warm up more,it is only doing it when its cold.

Wait did this problem only start after the waterpump failure? Something isn't right here