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240 front shutter and shake

xDread92x

xDread92x

Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2015
Location
NC
Just got new tires today balanced and aligned pretty well.

Two issues ive been dealing with the last few months:

1. Front shutter while braking after putting ebay slotted and drilled rotors on. Did i get screwed with warped rotors?

2. I also can hear and feel brake hardware moving around when braking. When i got down there and looked on the front i can shake the pads back and forth with slight movement. Isnt this suppose to be tight with no movement?

All hardware and pins are properly in place. Could it be my pins are wore down and not keeping things locked in place? My new pads are volvo I believe, could the pin not be making proper contact through the pad inserts?

Thanks
 
You did a lot of things at once, some of which you had done, which is normal, but not the best for using the process of elimination to guess which thing went wrong. I'd first jack the wheel up and be sure it is on tight 9-3 and 6-12. That's routine anyway, checking for ball joint, control arm bushing, tie rod, and wheel bearing. If you don't have a dial indicator to check runout, you could pull the new rotors, be sure they went cleanly on the hubs, and substitute your old rotors for a test.

Pads should be a bit loose so they can easily slide in their ways.
 
Within the last year inners and outters, as well as ball joints were replaced. Shaking doesnt occur while driving at all. The shake and shutter happen when braking only. It could just be the warped rotors potentially. Tires are also on tight.

I also did some stabilizer bar work recently. I wonder if its hard to align the stabilizer bar. I tried to lock down the links evenly. Whats the proper distance for bushings on the links?
From research i believe i remember 1 3/4” from bottom plate to top plate?
 
You can also try airing down the tires, then air them back up. If they didn't do that when they installed the tires, you can have issues with the tires being a shade out of round. This is due to the bead of the tire not resting perfectly on the rim edge after it 'pops' up as they are airing it up. You air the tire completely down to allow the tire to relax onto the bead completely. Then air it up fully.

I used to run into this a lot in the 80s working at a gas station in high school. Figured it out by accident working on a set of truck tires. We sold Firestone tires at that location and had terrible problems with them being out of round due to the above syndrome. The larger the tire, the worse it was. I suspect it is less of an issue these days (better tire technology), but I have to tell the tire jockeys to do this every time. In the 80s, you could visibly see the difference in the runout of the tire before and after.

I also have to tell them to run the wheel on the balancer after they hammer weights on it to check it for zero. Its really common that they don't re-run the wheel after putting weights on. Just lazy.

Their balancer could also be off due to a damaged arm. If their balancer just used an old school cone instead of an expanding collet, they could have got it off center.

I'd air the tires down, then up. Take it back to the tire shop and have them check the balance and tire runout.
 
It sounds like warped rotors to me. He's had the issue for months and the tires were just installed today.

Make sure there's no rust or dirt between the rotors and hubs.
 
I've had driveshaft vibration feed back through the steering wheel pretty hard before. On that car the tranny mount was bad as well, so the driveshaft shook the whole engine. If you are crawling around under there anyways you might as well check the u-joints and center support bearing.
 
Similar kinda issue - not meaning to hijack but totally am.

I've developed a vibration on acceleration (and less so on breaking) - wheel bearings seem ok, breaks dragging just a little on the rotors, drive shaft used to have a little bit of play when I got the car im sure but it has non now - Trans mount in good condition, diff oil is clean.

Any suggestions? Would figure a wheel out of balance/out of round would vibrate all the time.
 
I replaced the center support bushing back in august and checked u joints. The shaking is coming from the front i noticed now even when not braking.

Im going to get under and inspect tie rods and stuff because its mostly in the steering and wheel. Im sure constant shaking for months could have wore some things out. Hell maybe something is barely hanging on loll
 
Hey all I checked my tie rods and things were fine.

I do believe its warped rotors. As I spin the rotor it rolls smooth and then stops and acts stuck at one area practically moving all the brake hardware around. It seems like a bulge in the disc.

Look at the rolling of the brake pads, does this possibly show contact from a "warped" area?

Thanks

Image BEBE https://ibb.co/yNwwXHd [Driver side rotor with left side front side of rotor]
 
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I'm just going to try to take them to a machine shop and have them resurfaced and even'd out. Although there may be warp the braking performance is still better with the slotted and drilled than stock.

any thoughts?
 
xDread92x said:
I'm just going to try to take them to a machine shop and have them resurfaced and even'd out. Although there may be warp the braking performance is still better with the slotted and drilled than stock.

any thoughts?
Click to expand...

If the casting of the rotor is centered, but the original machining was bad, this may work.
If the rotor was cast with core shift, or the center isnt centered or the bolt holes are offset, which all happen on cheap rotors, no amount of machining will get the balance in check.
 
VB242 said:
Drilled rotors can hold water which turns to steam and reduces your braking power slightly till it burns off.
Click to expand...

This is hogwash.
The holes are open at both ends. Water can't collect there.
Think about the centrifugal force of a spinning rotor....water in the holes is going to get thrown outward. It is nearly impossible for it to collect there while the car is driving. The holes and slots also provide additional areas for the water to evacuate the pad/rotor contact surface.

While I am not going to comment on whether the holes/slots improve braking, I will say they cant make it worse. Unless the rotor fails/cracks because of the holes/slots. Then braking will suffer....:nod:
 
Having a very similar issue on a 92 240.
Replaced the front rotors which needed replacing at any rate/no change except better braking.
Almost positive it's the tranny mount/possibly one motor mount.

How is your tranny mount?
 
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