Mr.Borrie?s 242 LPG turbo project.

socalsean · May 14, 2012

Black paint looks cheap in an engine bay.

Mr.Borrie · May 16, 2012

socalsean said:
Black paint looks cheap in an engine bay.

the ones i saw looked okay, anyway might just do colorcoded 0,5 liter less or more wont make a huge difference.

Tonight i unbolted the tank, (i need to replace the cap for a intake pump and return one) was much easier than i expected. The rust on the top of the tank however came as a surprise not trough but i do need to look into getting the tank off the lines. The one line connected to the front wont come off because its sealed with plastic and has a rubber cover. Tips on how to undo that are welcome.

Also the fuel inlet hose does not seem to want to come undone, i removed the clamps in the trunk. Now this is a bit of a hassle because i cannot remove the plastic cover. Because the LPG tank holder is mounted over it. They do come loose but i dont have enough play to wiggle it off. Called it a day because i got annoyed and had a long day at the office too.

BlueSwede · May 17, 2012

Use a heat gun on those lines.. heat em up and wiggle.. turn on heat gun before getting close to tank area, incase of "ON" spark......

Sander · May 17, 2012

If you haven't found the sticker on the axle, you can check the axle gear ratio by rotating the flange where the driveshaft mounts and count how much revolutions it takes for the wheels to go round once. That'll be the ratio.

Mr.Borrie · May 17, 2012

BlueSwede said:
Use a heat gun on those lines.. heat em up and wiggle.. turn on heat gun before getting close to tank area, incase of "ON" spark......

Thanks i will give that a go, Tank is empty already so thats one less thing to worry about

Sander said:
If you haven't found the sticker on the axle, you can check the axle gear ratio by rotating the flange where the driveshaft mounts and count how much revolutions it takes for the wheels to go round once. That'll be the ratio.

Thanks, not yet looked to be honest just derust and painted it. Thats a good tip tough.
On the petrol lines issue, i sort of forgot i need the lines from the tank to the engine with the Filter fittings etc. You prob will use those of the 940 for your new project?

Mr.Borrie · May 21, 2012

here's a fun read for people who might not have seen it. I see some stuff i'd like to do

http://www.vandors.com/240mods.html

Mr.Borrie · May 21, 2012

My dad gave a go on welding the 242 today with electrodes. Its really thin so the metal melted. He hates the result. Still progress in my eyes so i want to update.

We are gonna look for a MIG with a bigger bottle soon. We have seen some nice ones used for around 500 euro?s of good brands and like the crappy italion ones for 500-700 new. Where not really sure what to do here what are the odds of a good brand (2000 euro new one) will brake down and what are the partscosts on those when they fail. I'm sure the italian ones will breake down and spareparts are nowhere to be found

Sander · May 21, 2012

Get a used one of a good brand. They will weld better and break down less often. Should something break, you can always get parts for it. Don't you already have a MIG welder? Just get a bigger bottle for that one.

Mr.Borrie · May 21, 2012

It only takes little bottles, they are kinda expensive. Also considering the amount of welding we are going to be doing for the next few years its probabbly a good idea to get a better MIG

JW240 · May 21, 2012

yeah get a 10 or 20 l bottle of gas. shop around for gas prices, i've had quotes range between 250 and 400 euro for the same bottle of gas (20L ar/co2 mix).
bigger machine, 2nd hand, good plan. 2 years ago I got a barely used 280 amp Esab mig/mag for ~1/3 of new price, works prefect. you dont need one of the same size for car work, you only need 30-50 amps for most bodywork but you hardly find quality machines in that range so you'll probably want to aim for a 150-200 amps machine.

Funkee · May 21, 2012

Just have a look at marktplaats for a while and act fast when something pops up.

We have a fine MIG machine we've bought for 75 together with a compressor, I used it to completely restore my car.

Also we recently bought a good TIG welder with 12M of lines and torch for 150 or so, just from a nitwit who couldnt weld and bought a smaller and more expensive one.
Bought a (full) 20L bottle of Argon for €175 on MP, and go

If you wanna buy a new one, a friend of mine who owns a professional autobody shop has a Cebora 165 from Rustbuster.nl and is really satisfied with it.

Mr.Borrie · May 27, 2012

Great another setback, got the tank under the car. The holes do not agline and the intake hose is busted, good i spotted it.
Thinking of looking for a race tank of 25 liters. It will run on LPG most of the time anyway

Sander · May 27, 2012

This car just doesn't want to be put together, doesn't it?

Mr.Borrie · May 31, 2012

Sander said:
This car just doesn't want to be put together, doesn't it?

I think its telling me to run away and get another grandpa 700 serie.. i think he's right :lol:

Picking up a MIG welder this weekend with big bottle. so rust be gone!

Sander · May 31, 2012

Nice, that'll make your life a lot easier. Also, get an automatic welding helmet if you didn't already have one. They are not very expensive and worth every penny when you're working inside or underneath the car.

Mr.Borrie · May 31, 2012

Sander said:
Nice, that'll make your life a lot easier. Also, get an automatic welding helmet if you didn't already have one. They are not very expensive and worth every penny when you're working inside or underneath the car.

Got it!

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/vm5lO-YA0TA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Mr.Borrie · Jul 26, 2012

Collected allot of nice parts i will show over the next month or so. meanwhile i removed the axle from the car and started to build up the new one

Turbosteen · Jul 26, 2012

That probably took quite a while to clean, I'm also removing all the rust from another axle and it's really annoying work to do

Mr.Borrie · Jul 27, 2012

It was not that bad the new axle was in better shape rustwise, still when i got a part in my hand i might as wel make it pretty and last longer with a nice antirust treatment.

I used a paintscratcher thingy to get all the dirt off first. then i nice tick layer of hammerrite antirust stuff. Looks pretty neat too! looked less hot when it still was wet but now in back outside dried out i'm pretty pleased. I am just not sure when "reactiestangen" to use. the one on the car have a full sized bushing in them, the ones i got with the newer axle has holes in the bushing (suppouse to be there) it seems to me that those full sized bushings are stiffer == "moare better"

Mr.Borrie · Jul 29, 2012

Did not wanna do too much today. Cleaned up all the surface rust under the car and put on some iron/lead coating my dad gave me. After it dries i have to do it again and then i will put on new undercoating for stonechip and salt protection (though im not to sure if i should drive it in snow)

Then i started to poke the little holes that where not there when my friend bought the car 3 years ago been standing still ever since outside so all the places where water could stay still in corners and between bumpers had some bubbles. Sad to see they decay on those spots they could have been prevented if he just fixed the car and drove it.

Seems that the backside of the car (facing the wind in zandvoort) took the bigges hit all on the body. all littles holes.. :grrr:

Mr.Borrie?s 242 LPG turbo project.

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