1984 242 - Mein kampf, mit zwei t?ren!

wd-40 turn her over start it up

Got it unstuck, unbolted the number 4 rod. It was really bent. The rod bearing was perfect though so I am guessing the debris caused it to bend and stopped the motor.

Hammered the piston out, will take pics of the cylnder walls.

There was a 2 mm difference in depth height between piston 1 and 4.

Some pics

A small rust ring that was below piston 1,



Number 4 after i hammered out the old rod

Intake side

Exhaust side

I don't see any FOD, just water. That sucks, hopefully you can get it honed or bored and be good to go.

Get another block...dont waste any time and money on this..... From the pictures and what you tell, it is not recommanded to go ahead and get this drilled...
Too heavy rusted...

Volvorules said:

I don't see any FOD, just water.

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The white spots are little pebbles or bits of road salt. More then just water, it was monsuming when the engine last ran...

Holy ****!

That's legit.

to be bought here

Well, Got another block @ the junkyard today. Took 2 hrs from starting to having it loaded in the trunk of the 850.

From a 93 940 Turbo Wagon that was rear ended and destroyed. Had 150k on it or so, and had the timing belt changed @ 130k so I will probably reuse the belt.

Its got round tooth gears and squirters.

nice, looks good n' oily

Now we are talking.... Looking seroiusly much better!!

Ok more progress and more headaches!!!

I noticed that there was some corrosion in the head by the valves seats so I took apart the head so i could give it a good inspection and cleaning...





yay!!! uggggg. Trying to decide if i should just try and clean it up by hand or get the head hot tanked. Its already apart,,, kind of thinking about that but it would be going on a dirty ass JY block... hmmm

I have been running the 6 puck ceramic clutch net with the 60 over pressure plate and quite a bit of wear on the pressure plate and the flywheel.







I definitely want to make a nice light weight steel flywheel that uses 240mm clutch so i could use an organic disc or something that will wear better.



I also noticed there is a bit more side to side clearance on these rods then on the old motor, I did check at the important piston steered end but @ the crank there was 1.0mm of side to side movement. The old motor had .5mm Spec is .25-.4 iirc but should be measured at the piston. Not sure if i should do anything about it or just get it assembled and see how it is.

The rear right fender has been clearanced. I cut out a lot less on this side since i did the exploring on the other side. Once I have the drivetrain installed and pinion angle set I will start closing up the inner gaps that i cut open.

I have a block that's rusted like that from sitting inside after being in a junkyard for a month or 2 and wrecked in the wet. Learned the hard way, manifolds don't keep an engine dry

WindowsBreakerG4 said:

I have a block that's rusted like that from sitting inside after being in a junkyard for a month or 2 and wrecked in the wet. Learned the hard way, manifolds don't keep an engine dry

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After looking at all the evidence it was pretty obvious the engine got hydro locked when the car was wrecked. Which left moisture in the cylinders to start corroding.

Another Update!!!

Been banging my head against the wall with this motor, I dont want to go crazy and spend excessive money on this thing but I dont want to put a bad motor in the car.

I ended up pulling #1 piston and rod to inspect,

Its a C sized cylinder. The two upper rings looked fine but the oil ring was completely packed full of sludgy oil. I wasn't too thrilled about that.

It mic'd 95.92 mm, the spec for a new piston of that size is 95.98-95.99 mm thats a difference of .054mm under the stock size or .0021" I haven't measured the bore yet. Any idea if thats excessive or if it will produce any problems?







I also cleaned up the combustion chambers and seats with a tiny wire brush wheel for my air tool.



I started to clean up the valves and i noticed this,



Is that carbon on the left or the stellite coating? I dont want to remove it if its not supposed to be removed.

Also I noticed on the one on the left had significant pitting on the seat,



I would assume this is gonna be a problem, right? Also I am thinking it looks deep enough that some valve lapping compound won't cut it.

The current plan is to get the block disassembled, get it cleaned at a machine shop, get a fresh hone oh the bores, new rings, new rod bearings and run it.

blkaplan said:

It mic'd 95.92 mm, the spec for a new piston of that size is 95.98-95.99 mm thats a difference of .054mm under the stock size or .0021" I haven't measured the bore yet. Any idea if thats excessive or if it will produce any problems?

Click to expand...

I think that all depends on how worn the bores are. Get measurements with a dial bore gauge and then you will know total piston to wall clearance.

Im sure others with more experience can chime in on what is acceptable.

Just measured the bores and it looks like the difference between the piston and the bore is about 3.5 thousands. That is as is. I am sure it will grow slightly when it gets rehoned.

blkaplan said:

I started to clean up the valves and i noticed this,

Is that carbon on the left or the stellite coating? I dont want to remove it if its not supposed to be removed.

Click to expand...

carbon. it was the exh valves that were coated, not the intake. mikeP once said the coating was really thin. don't worry about the coating. wire wheel away the carbon, though.

that's a lot more pitting than my valves had. lap and see, they'll work if that's what you've got to use.

I think some valves from my 530 head will work better then the pitted ones.

Ok time for an update and pics

Like I said earlier the piston to wall clearance is right at 3.5 thousands. Decided to run with it,

The motor had a lot of carbon on it so I made the machine shop clean it up. They pressure washed it using a hot soapy alkaline cleaner. We removed the gally plugs and oil squirters to aid in getting as much as possible cleanedup.

Before I dropped it off I drilled and taped the oil return for a 3/4 NPT fitting.

I had them put a very light cross hatching on the bores as it is already fairly loose.

I ordered some Deves Rings and Glyco Connecting rod Pistons.

the main bearings looked fine.

After we had the block clean, I took that opportunity to put a fresh coat of enamel 500 F paint on it.











I got some nasty ass parts cleaner to get the pistons cleaned up and it worked pretty damn well. Took about 7 hours per piston but they came out looking really nice.



You can see how deep the rod was in the cleaner. I dipped em assembled and then rinsed em out and reoiled everything I could with Vactra 2 oil.

Also cleaned up the squirters,