240: "simple" keyless entry now going on 2 weeks

[RickATL]

Im including a photo and video.


I was going about adding keyless to a 93 244.
Installed a passenger side actuator in the door, but then thought i should clean up the tumbler wires that everyone seems to eventually have a problem with.



I used liquid electrical tape, covered it with heat shrink and everything seemed fine. Now turning the door lock doesnt energize the unlock/lock???



Im thinking i might be off on placement of the black casing around the tumbler? Or any other ideas?
Here is a link to a short youtube video
https://youtu.be/9W708Jdpnd4

[apachechef]

Iirc, it can be 180 deg off

[volvowagoon]

I was curious about doing this. Our 240 came with remote start, but they didn't hook up the remote lock/unlock feature. Knowing how rusty the rest of the car is and how these actuator wires like to corrode, I'm a bit nervous to attempt it.

[bobxyz]

The orientation of the black collar and tabs looks fine. Does it work if you pull up and push down on the unlock knob?

[RickATL]

Originally Posted by bobxyz

The orientation of the black collar and tabs looks fine. Does it work if you pull up and push down on the unlock knob?

No it does work either way. When i first reconnected it at the 3 prong connector i heard it engage, but now neither the key or pull/push the knob works.

[2 old for this]

With keyless entry why do you need the key switch?

[cleanflametrap]

Does the remote operate the actuator with the door in the same position as you have it testing the key/button switch? The lock is mechanically disabled with the door open.

I have not found a use for the button or key switch since adding the keyless entry, so I've just left them unplugged under the dash where the switch wires are deteriorated.

http://cleanflametrap.com/keyless3.html

[bobxyz]

Unplug the 3 pin connector and measure the voltages across each pair. Black wire should be ground, and the other 2 are the lock / unlock relay coils. They should be +12v. If good, try jumpering one at a time to black-ground to see if you can manually trigger lock/unlock.

[RickATL]

Ive run the ŵires, but havent hooked up the keyless unit yet. But ill màke sure i recheck it closed. Its possible i hàd it open.

Originally Posted by cleanflametrap

Does the remote operate the actuator with the door in the same position as you have it testing the key/button switch? The lock is mechanically disabled with the door open.

I have not found a use for the button or key switch since adding the keyless entry, so I've just left them unplugged under the dash where the switch wires are deteriorated.

http://cleanflametrap.com/keyless3.html

[RickATL]

Originally Posted by RickATL

No it doesn't work either way. When i first reconnected it at the 3 prong connector i heard it engage, but now neither the key or pull/push the knob works.

EDIT: This morning I was double checking things and after touching the unlock or lock relay (I'm not sure which) it started working as it is supposed to. It promptly stopped working again not 5 minutes later. I have to go through the wires and double check their connections.

[OttoB]

IIRC, there are three wires red, black and yellow.

Black goes to ground, others to relays. One relay for opening, one for closing. Follow wiring diagram.

[nel621]

Did you do a good job of isolating the wires before the liquid tape bath? I hate that stuff. You may still have a break in the wires as it passes through the door.

[RickATL]

Originally Posted by nel621

Did you do a good job of isolating the wires before the liquid tape bath? I hate that stuff. You may still have a break in the wires as it passes through the door.

Yes I held them separate with clips while painting one side. After they dried, I then flipped them over and brushed the other side. I then put heat shrink around each. I think it was just a problem with the relay not being plugged in well enough.