Volvo R brakes on 240 pedal feel issues

[Texas240]

And now the results:

I am at fault for both issues. I clearly did my math wrong on the extension of the push rod, it was about 15mm short and I bought the wrong master cylinder. I bought a SVT when I should of bought the GT one. All is fixed and brakes are great and feel the same as they did when I bought the car back in 2007

[MDVLN]

Glad to hear that man, I'm sure you're happy it wasn't something more labor intensive.

When available could you please share the part number for the GT Master cyl you purchased?

[Texas240]

Originally Posted by MDVLN

Glad to hear that man, I'm sure you're happy it wasn't something more labor intensive.

When available could you please share the part number for the GT Master cyl you purchased?

Been bugging me for about a year now. I wish the 5mp and under squeal would go away.

The part I bought is a Dorman M390185 LINKY

[stick70]

Hell yeah, good to hear man.

[2barxr]

is this a full Volvo R brake swap Front/Rear?

Thanks for the info i am putting S60R's on my 91 940

[RoadRacer4Life]

Its always nice to find out when the problem is actually solved..

[Texas240]

Originally Posted by 2barxr

is this a full Volvo R brake swap Front/Rear?

Thanks for the info i am putting S60R's on my 91 940

This was just the fronts. I didnt see the need to go rear also.

[Texas240]

Originally Posted by RoadRacer4Life

Its always nice to find out when the problem is actually solved..

For once

[rijk]

Originally Posted by stick70

I've had no pedal issues with my r brakes all around and mustang master
I will say my pedal is a little touchy. Not lock the brakes up touchy, but someone that hasn't driven the car will find the pedal sensitive.

Originally Posted by Marvelous3

The rod length is important to get right. If you haven't you need to replace the adjustment screw on the end of your brake booster rod. The stock rod isn't long enough to work with the mustang master.

Have R calipers f/r in my ’93 960 sedan with 330 mm R-discs, stock R brake pads with Mustang MC including rod extension. Together with replacing the MC the rod was extended. So what symptoms occur when f.i. the rod is just too short. The brakes are pretty touchy. Slowing down by just touching the brake pedal instantly activates the safety-belt locks. Took some time to get used to that at first. But on the other hand when I brake firmly at around 60 mph, the braking effect is only average. At a certain point deceleration does not increase when the pedal is pressed even harder. The brake force remains the same. Locking the wheels is absolutely impossible, far from triggering ABS. Dangerous situation. Vacuum issue? Using Chrysler E-throtltle. No leaking tubes.

[rijk]

Anybody familiar with this lack of braking power after converting to the V70R brake system?

[Hank Scorpio]

Honestly sounds like the pushrod is set to long.

[Harlard]

Sounds like brake pad knock back to me.

@rijk, make sure to clean your hub surfaces and that there is no runout on your brake rotors.

[rijk]

Originally Posted by Hank Scorpio

Honestly sounds like the pushrod is set to long.

Thanks. I'm going to check that.

Originally Posted by Harlard

Sounds like brake pad knock back to me.

@rijk, make sure to clean your hub surfaces and that there is no runout on your brake rotors.

Have left nothing to chance: Meticulous revision of all four calipers, new R-pads, new R-discs, new hubs, new SKF wheel bearings. No runout, non abnormal pedal feeling.

I am open to other suggestions.

[DrZiplok]

Pad knockback won't give you those symptoms. What pads are you using? I hate to ask, but did you make sure they were in the right way around? What you're describing is exactly what I'd expect if you have the pads inside out...

Ignoring the stupid question, have you bedded the pads / rotors yet?

If the calipers were junkyard parts, did you check that the pads move freely? It's not uncommon (I have bought ~ a dozen of these so far) for there to be corrosion behind the steel pad-stopper plates in the caliper; this can result in the plate being forced inward and blocking / cocking the pad as it moves towards the rotor. Likewise did you verify that all of the pistons move freely? I've also had more than a few arrive with pistons siezed in the bore due to corrosion.

[rijk]

Originally Posted by DrZiplok

Pad knockback won't give you those symptoms. What pads are you using?

OEM R pads. No fancy stuff.

I hate to ask, but did you make sure they were in the right way around? What you're describing is exactly what I'd expect if you have the pads inside out...

With inside out you mean the friction material is facing outwards instead of towards the disc???

Ignoring the stupid question, have you bedded the pads / rotors yet?

I ignore that question :-)

If the calipers were junkyard parts, did you check that the pads move freely? It's not uncommon.

No junkyard parts. Bought second hand from reliable party. Although in good working order all four calipers were overhauled for safety reasons with new OEM parts (pistons,seals etc)

[brickcupra]

Hey guys , well my situation was different. I swapped a 7mgte into my 240 wagon and the original brake /booster system would not fit ,so I had to do some searching and after 2 years my brakes would almost take my teeth out. The booster is corolla, the master cylinder after 3 different ones ended up been a Lexus ls 400 1 1/16 bore diameter. The abs pump is out and the proportioning valve is from a Honda, the front brakes are a combination of Infinity I 30 rotors with re-drilled hubs with trailblazer lugs, the calipers are custom fitted twin pot Subaru WRX rebuilt by me with Nissan maxima brackets and Suzuki SX4 brake pads with Nissan Altima rubber hoses. Rear brakes are factory. The Infinity / Subaru/ altima/ Maxima brakes are compatible because they are all made by Tokico. It does the job for me. Ok JUst food for thr soul
Seeya
DZ