Vintage: 140 Linkage Solutions?

[fatcatbestcat]

Right, this isn't a problem yet, but I can see it being an issue in the future, so I figure I might as well ask and order parts now.

So I have a 1967 144S, which originally came with SU carbs. I'm probably swapping to either a 38/38 DGMS or DCOE 45s when I get around to reassembling the (swapped) engine.

I understand that the 140s, because of the intake being on the passenger side, has a linkage bar of some sort that runs under the dash.



Where exactly am I supposed to attach any kind of aftermarket linkage arms to?

I see this nub that pokes out of the firewall, but is it threaded?

I also happen to have an IPD throttle cable conversion kit for a DGMS... is that possible to use on a non-EFI car?

Sorry for some probably dumb noob questions.
Any guidance is helpful.

[hiperfauto]

The DGMS linkage uses the original firewall bushing for the rear of the cross shaft. The front will ride in a heim joint on the manifold.

DCOE manifolds typically have mounts for the cross shaft.

With either setup the linkage rod from the pedal connects to an arm on the cross shaft just like with the SU's.

[fatcatbestcat]

Originally Posted by hiperfauto

With either setup the linkage rod from the pedal connects to an arm on the cross shaft just like with the SU's.

Well that simplifies it.

I'm just having the worst time locating individual linkage components.

[alschnertz]

Originally Posted by fatcatbestcat

I'm just having the worst time locating individual linkage components.

Maybe stick with the SUs?

[fatcatbestcat]

Originally Posted by alschnertz

Maybe stick with the SUs?

That would involve rebuilding a set. Mine had a bunch of acorns in them.

There's a reason I'm switching.

[hiperfauto]

Redline sells linkage kits for the DGV/DGMS carbs. It's not listed on their website so you have to call them to order or buy it from me. I keep them in stock.



They also have linkage kits for the DCOE's but they have a 5/16" shaft with stamped metal arms that can slip if not tightened very tight.



I like the kits that Pierce sells. They use a 3/8 stainless steel shaft with aluminum arms that are much nicer.

[fatcatbestcat]

Originally Posted by hiperfauto

Redline sells linkage kits for the DGV/DGMS carbs. It's not listed on their website so you have to call them to order or buy it from me. I keep them in stock.

I might have to go that route.

Originally Posted by hiperfauto

I like the kits that Pierce sells. They use a 3/8 stainless steel shaft with aluminum arms that are much nicer.

Eh, I haven't had the best experience with Pierce. Last manifold/linkage set I ordered from them, they gave me the wrong sized eyelets for the manifold, and neither would fit. I contacted them about ordering the correct size, and they told me to call their shop... I'm not into long distance calls.

[OttoB]

I would get pedal from 240 and wire from B20 engine.

[alschnertz]

Originally Posted by fatcatbestcat

That would involve rebuilding a set. Mine had a bunch of acorns in them. There's a reason I'm switching.

Rebuilding a pair of SUs is pretty simple, but I didn't realize you had a "reason for switching".
Go for it!

[fatcatbestcat]

Originally Posted by alschnertz

Rebuilding a pair of SUs is pretty simple, but I didn't realize you had a "reason for switching".
Go for it!

I might do that further down the line, as an 'upgrade' to the DGMS.

I just need it to run at this point.

[c1800]

“ I'm not into long distance calls.”.

Huh?

[fatcatbestcat]

Originally Posted by c1800

“ I'm not into long distance calls.”.

Huh?

Rogers.

[AndrewNance]

Dude just have your SUs rebuilt instead of swapping to that miserable Weber, unless you fully commit to the DCOEs.

[fatcatbestcat]

Originally Posted by AndrewNance

Dude just have your SUs rebuilt instead of swapping to that miserable Weber, unless you fully commit to the DCOEs.

I had my heart set on running a header, which would mean buying a separate SU manifold.

I already have the functional carbs, just trying to run it before doing anything fancy.