Drain plug glued to the oil pan - how should I approach?

fatcatbestcat · 08-28-2020, 02:22 PM

It's me again, with my problem child 144. Seriously, the problems never end.

Anyway, I went to drain the oil from the B20, and I couldn't get it to move at all. I was reaching in with a long wrench from inside a wheel well (can't really jack up the car enough to get underneath), so I reached in with a camera to see if the bolt was totally gacked.

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but this looks like it's been siliconed to the pan.

Any ideas on how to get this off?

Khrrck · 08-28-2020, 02:49 PM

I would say, figure out how to jack the thing up enough to get under and scratch at the unknown "stuff" - see if it's softer, like silicone, or hard like epoxy. If you're lucky it's just silicone added by someone who couldn't get it to seal or was missing the washer...

If you're unlucky someone has J-B welded it on there.

A good angle and a longer lever (breaker bar) would be my first attempt. Gasoline or brake cleaner may work to help loosen silicone. Unfortunately epoxy is pretty chemical resistant so heat would be the only available step up for that. Keep an extinguisher handy. Either way expect the threads to be munged up, you may have to re-tap to a larger drain plug size.

Worst case you will need a new pan but I think that's unlikely.

fatcatbestcat · 08-28-2020, 03:07 PM

Got another look underneath and scratched at it with a screwdriver (then my fingernails).

Feels hard like epoxy.

Mr. V · 08-28-2020, 04:30 PM

Soak the area in denatured alcohol or paint thinner to try to soften it up.

Heat it with a heat gun (not an open flame).

Use a stout ratchet wrench with the same number of points on the wrench as on the bolt head: using a cheater / breaker bar then remove it.

iamrolling · 08-28-2020, 06:15 PM

That bolt looks big enough that even a good epoxy job shouldn't be able to withstand a good twist with a 6 point.

matt b · 08-28-2020, 06:37 PM

Leverage is going to be key in all this. Hopefully you find a way to raise the car safely so that you can crawl underneath it and use a long breaker bar.

That thing has been fighting you tooth and nail!

nel621 · 08-28-2020, 09:41 PM

Get a 6 point wrench securely on it then give it a solid whack. It should break free.

2turbotoys · 08-28-2020, 09:47 PM

I use a 6 point socket, 1/2" drive if you have it, and a long pipe on the socket wrench or breaker bar. A jack handle works well, I usually only need the upper half of the handle. It will not hurt anything if it is silicone, rtv, or just over tightened. I just did that today on a 240. Do get a new copper sealing washer, and maybe a new magnetic drain plug, that stuff is cheap.

tintintin · 08-29-2020, 12:01 AM

Your photo is kind of blurry but it sure looks to me like a aluminum washer. Can you borrow/rent a bigger jack and jack stands? Who changed the oil last time? Worst case, maybe you use a Mityvac this time.

James M · 08-29-2020, 12:14 AM

Did someone say 1/2 drive impact?

TurboDutch · 08-29-2020, 03:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by James M

Did someone say 1/2 drive impact?

You just did :P

iamrolling · 08-29-2020, 05:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tintintin

aluminum washer

I think you're right. The points on the hex look like they're digging into it the same way they do on my 940 drain bolt washer.
fatcat, it's probably just in there really tight. Try using a mirror to make sure the socket is squarely on the bolt, and turn the wrench while holding it as straight as you can. If it still doesn't move, continue pushing counterclockwise and smack the end of the wrench with a mallet. If it still doesn't want to move, you should make sure that the bolt wasn't attached using a welder.

dl242gt · 08-29-2020, 02:43 PM

Stock drain plug torque is 45ftlbs.

fatcatbestcat · 08-30-2020, 01:26 PM

The bolt head is already too stripped for me to actually get it off. A wrench + hammer just resulted in the wrench falling off.

I do have a temporary (knowing me, permanent) stopgap solution though!

Bought one of those cheap vacuum oil drain pumps, and threw the intake hose down the dipstick tube. Which then got stuck and broke off inside the tube.

I'm now able to drain through the distributor slot on the block, but I need to figure out how to remove the broken hose from the dipstick tube, since I imagine it'll just turn into a massive oil geyser if not addressed.

EDIT:

culberro · 08-30-2020, 01:38 PM

A borrowed/rented/loaned impact and the appropriate sized 6pt socket will remove it.

TurboDutch · 08-30-2020, 02:11 PM

Oh boi you've gotten yourselve in some trouble for nottin there...

fatcatbestcat · 08-30-2020, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TurboDutch

Oh boi you've gotten yourselve in some trouble for nottin there...

Fixed the tube inside the tube problem. Just pushed it down into the oil pan and retrieved it with some pliers. It does seem that I'm going to have to drain oil through the distributor slot for now, so that sucks.

Redwood Chair · 08-30-2020, 02:15 PM

I bet it's stripped, post in wanted for another B20 pan.

TurboDutch · 08-30-2020, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fatcatbestcat

Fixed the tube inside the tube problem. Just pushed it down into the oil pan and retrieved it with some pliers. It does seem that I'm going to have to drain oil through the distributor slot for now, so that sucks.

Oeff that sound like you where really lucky there retrieving that piece of plastic!

Mr. V · 08-30-2020, 03:39 PM

Since the pan's bolt head is too stripped for a ratchet wrench, that leaves you with Vise Grips.

Not nearly as good, but try them, and of course you'll need a bigger hammer.

apachechef · 08-30-2020, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fatcatbestcat

Fixed the tube inside the tube problem. Just pushed it down into the oil pan and retrieved it with some pliers. It does seem that I'm going to have to drain oil through the distributor slot for now, so that sucks.

wait, how did you grab it out of the pan with pliers? from what hole?

fatcatbestcat · 08-30-2020, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by apachechef

wait, how did you grab it out of the pan with pliers? from what hole?

I pushed it all the way down from the dipstick tube with a large nail, and I think most of it just ended up in the pan. The engine's in the car, and I was just fishing blindly underneath a main bearing.

apachechef · 08-30-2020, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fatcatbestcat

I pushed it all the way down from the dipstick tube with a large nail, and I think most of it just ended up in the pan. The engine's in the car, and I was just fishing blindly underneath a main bearing.

from the distrib hole?

billkaz · 08-30-2020, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr. V

Since the pan's bolt head is too stripped for a ratchet wrench, that leaves you with Vise Grips.

Not nearly as good, but try them, and of course you'll need a bigger hammer.

https://www.amazon.ca/Vise-Grip-Lock...826606&sr=8-12

These are awesome for grabbing and holding onto bolts, even if slightly rounded off.

2turbotoys · 08-30-2020, 07:55 PM

What in the heck is happening here?

The proper tool for the stripped bolt is a turbo socket.

https://www.amazon.com/M%C3%A1ximum-...05298090&psc=1

08-28-2020, 09:47 PM	#8
2turbotoys Astro Zombie Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Reading pa	I use a 6 point socket, 1/2" drive if you have it, and a long pipe on the socket wrench or breaker bar. A jack handle works well, I usually only need the upper half of the handle. It will not hurt anything if it is silicone, rtv, or just over tightened. I just did that today on a 240. Do get a new copper sealing washer, and maybe a new magnetic drain plug, that stuff is cheap. __________________ Feedback thread https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=144924 1978 242, 5.3 L33 1979 242, MS, R brakes 2006 V50 T5 AWD @ 17 PSI

08-29-2020, 02:43 PM	#13
dl242gt Happy playing the blues Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.	Stock drain plug torque is 45ftlbs. __________________ Dave, 1982 242 turbo. 338k miles. MVP coilovers and 3" exhaust. Flowed 405 with a V15. Cossie turbine housing with upgraded compressor housing. 90+, IPD remote oil filter. Some other goodness, too. Been lots of fun over 25 years. Restored in 2k. Now ready for a 2nd restoration. 1993 245 Classic, 430k miles, enem V15. IPD bars and chassis braces. Simons sport exhaust from Scandix. sbabbs ezk chip. Been a good road warrior. Genuine Volvo rebuilt leaky M47.

08-30-2020, 01:26 PM	#14
fatcatbestcat Professional Hack Join Date: Oct 2019 Location: Toronto, ON (Canada)	The bolt head is already too stripped for me to actually get it off. A wrench + hammer just resulted in the wrench falling off. I do have a temporary (knowing me, permanent) stopgap solution though! Bought one of those cheap vacuum oil drain pumps, and threw the intake hose down the dipstick tube. Which then got stuck and broke off inside the tube. I'm now able to drain through the distributor slot on the block, but I need to figure out how to remove the broken hose from the dipstick tube, since I imagine it'll just turn into a massive oil geyser if not addressed. EDIT: Last edited by fatcatbestcat; 08-30-2020 at 01:37 PM..

08-30-2020, 01:38 PM	#15
culberro Ronald Culberbone III Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Portland, OR	A borrowed/rented/loaned impact and the appropriate sized 6pt socket will remove it. __________________ Cult Person. Pissing in your Kool-Aid.

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08-28-2020, 03:07 PM	#3
fatcatbestcat Professional Hack Join Date: Oct 2019 Location: Toronto, ON (Canada)	Got another look underneath and scratched at it with a screwdriver (then my fingernails). Feels hard like epoxy.

08-28-2020, 04:30 PM	#4
Mr. V Board Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Portland, Oregon metro	Soak the area in denatured alcohol or paint thinner to try to soften it up. Heat it with a heat gun (not an open flame). Use a stout ratchet wrench with the same number of points on the wrench as on the bolt head: using a cheater / breaker bar then remove it.

08-28-2020, 06:15 PM	#5
iamrolling Board Member Join Date: Nov 2019	That bolt looks big enough that even a good epoxy job shouldn't be able to withstand a good twist with a 6 point.

08-28-2020, 06:37 PM	#6
matt b Board Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Tucson	Leverage is going to be key in all this. Hopefully you find a way to raise the car safely so that you can crawl underneath it and use a long breaker bar. That thing has been fighting you tooth and nail!

08-28-2020, 09:41 PM	#7
nel621 Board Member Join Date: Apr 2009	Get a 6 point wrench securely on it then give it a solid whack. It should break free.

08-29-2020, 12:01 AM	#9
tintintin Board Member Join Date: Sep 2012	Your photo is kind of blurry but it sure looks to me like a aluminum washer. Can you borrow/rent a bigger jack and jack stands? Who changed the oil last time? Worst case, maybe you use a Mityvac this time.

08-29-2020, 12:14 AM	#10
James M Bored member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Davis, CA	Did someone say 1/2 drive impact?

08-30-2020, 02:11 PM	#16
TurboDutch Board Member Join Date: Aug 2019 Location: Nieuw en Sint Joosland	Oh boi you've gotten yourselve in some trouble for nottin there...

08-30-2020, 03:39 PM	#20
Mr. V Board Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Portland, Oregon metro	Since the pan's bolt head is too stripped for a ratchet wrench, that leaves you with Vise Grips. Not nearly as good, but try them, and of course you'll need a bigger hammer.

08-30-2020, 07:55 PM	#25
2turbotoys Astro Zombie Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Reading pa	What in the heck is happening here? The proper tool for the stripped bolt is a turbo socket. https://www.amazon.com/M%C3%A1ximum-...05298090&psc=1