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Electric Fan Conversion

Yeah fair enough if the sensor is on the cold side it'll need a different temp, or if it's at the top of the rad.

The important thing is that the cylinder head temp (ie your gauge) operates in the appropriate range, and that may take some fiddling although there are of course some good experience based recommendations in this thread per WindowsBreaker.

Since I switch my fan based on cylinder head operating temp my numbers are different.
 
Mine sits about 1/3rd of the way up maybe a little more, wideband says anything above the line idles at 14.7 :rofl: (truthfully many times this car doesn't even show anything lower than 14 on warm up)
 
Done that on B280F 760:

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Fan from 850, original shield. Now going to route wires, sensor etc...so pictures "in car" later...
 
Well I run a 92c on 87c off. If I ran a cooler switch I think I would constantly have the fan on. I have checked teh temp with an infared thermometer and temps are fine when the gauge reads just past 9 oclock.
 
bigbret said:
Well I run a 92c on 87c off. If I ran a cooler switch I think I would constantly have the fan on. I have checked teh temp with an infared thermometer and temps are fine when the gauge reads just past 9 oclock.
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Yeah, that temp would work well with most cars and 87 deg. thermostats. On my car, I couldn't get away with it because my car will detonate depending on which EZK chip and cam I'm using at the moment.
 
Mines on the top hoes. I read on here that you set it with the turn off temp, rather than when it kicks on. Works for me.
 
I have mentioned it in another thread, but just to be in the right topic - I recommend you the BMW switch - it has M14 thread (instead of M22 that has all others) and it is DUAL. So one output for low speed, one for high speed. Perfect solution for all double speeds efans. Used in all BMW's 3/5/7. Thanks the small thread, you have much more options where to mount it in.

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just read through this thread...beginning to end.

still, nobody has covered the correlation between the fan switch and thermostat temperature ratings.

based on a few reccomendations, it appears as though the fan cut-off temp rating should match the thermostat rating.

i just want to hear from a few others about this.

Also, any advice for selecting an optimum temp range for these parts. 88/82 vs 88/92, etc, etc. guess it all has to do with your climate, just wondering what you all do.
 
In my mind this is the optimal configuration. If thermostat is fully open at 87C (system is fully warmed), the switch has to kick the fan to low speed at slightly higher temperature, for example 91C (which means cooling by the naturally coming air is not enough). Then, temperature for switching off shall be somewhere around the full-opening thermostat temperature (you don't want to over-cool it).
The second temperature shall be around the switching temperature of the genuine efan in ECC (in my case it is something about 95C).
 
When I originally configured the electric fans on mine, I went with temp switches and relays. I found later that there is a MUCH more elegant solution. Delta Current Control (and others) makes a variable current/speed controller. ( http://www.dccontrol.com/ ) By varying the current, startup voltage/current spikes and the associated wear/tear on the electrical system and the fan motors are eliminated. The fan only runs as fast as it needs to to keep the system at the set point which minimizes parasitic losses and noise. And - perhaps most importantly - the engine is kept in a much tighter operating range of coolant temps. This type of controller often allows a one-size smaller alternator to be used in those cases where an upgrade of the alternator is necessary to manage the fan load.

I have a 180F t'stat in mine that begins to open around 177F and is completely open by 182F (substantially open at 180F). I established the set point of the DCC variable speed controller at 187F. When cruising in the 25-40mph range the fans turn completely off as there is enough air flow across the rad to allow the t'stat to control operating temp - in the 180F range. At speeds below that the fans come on at whatever speed necessary to keep the operating temps in the 187-190F range. I have a 'fan tach' in the gauge cluster (modified Volvo 52mm tach and Volvo turbo boost gauge face) that tells me how fast the fans are turning. As I'm cruising, the needle shows no fan movement. As I come to a stop -- gradually the fans begin to increase speed cooling the car as necessary. Even in 100F ambients, they rarely run at more than 50% speed (SPAL dual 11" fully shrouded). As I pull away from the light - usually within 15-90 seconds depending on ambient temp - the fans drop gradually back to zero speed as cooling needs are met by flowing air. Works pretty slick.

The same controller that drives the dual 11" cooling fans also drives a smaller 8" fan on my oil cooler.

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MH - what do you use for sensors? At that temp, I imagine you mileage (could be) very good. That and no mechanical fan to consume gobs of energy.
Which model did you buy?
 
Mine is one of the original (very early) 35A models. It's not available any longer. DCC's bottom of the line variable controller should be capable of driving safely just about any fan that's needed to cool most of our cars. The sensor comes with the unit and simply pushes into the fins in the radiator near the outlet hose.

I'm sure the unit/set-up helps a bit with mileage. But the main reason mine gets about the same mileage it did with the 4cyl (if you keep your foot out of it) is because it was set up to make GOBS of torque down low. 16-19 city depending on how much stop/go; 24-27 highway. Best interstate tank of 27.5 mpg running about 65 mph.
 
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RS1 said:
According to this: http://www.stonis-world.net/lh_ezk.html there is a cooling fan output on the LH2.4 fuel ecu. Have anyone used it or know at which temperature it actives? It's not present in the 240 loom. Is there a program for it in the chip?
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Yup. I just picked up a 960 fan, 960 fan relay/harness, and a 2.4 940 ecu yesterday. Xmas Eve is the install date. I will just have to run two wires (low and high speed) from the ecu to the fan
 
On Thursday of last week I was driving in bad Houston-city traffic and noticed that my temperature got to the 10 o-clock mark. I wondered why my fan had not clicked on so I used my dash switch. Still nothing.

Apparently the motor died : (. I tried bypassing the relay and still no fan. Luckily I still had my MFAN so I bolted that on and took a trip to the JY to get another. I had only used the thing for 4 months or so!
 
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