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My Latest B230FT Crankcase Breather Experiment

lummert

Active member
Joined
Jan 11, 2008
Location
Portland IN
In an experiment to improve on crankcase breathing i have installed a VW 037 129 101 R Crankcase Vent Valve on my 88 765 B230FT. This valve fits:
96-02 VW Cabrio, 96-99 VW Golf, and 97-99 VW Jetta. All with 2.0 L engine.

Looks like this:
http://www.ecstuning.com/b-uro-parts/crankcase-vent-valve/037129101r~uro/

Instead of the valve being placed on top of the valve cover I installed it on the crankcase breather box outlet hose. I then vented the oil fill cap to the crankcase port of the valve. I then run the vent valve exit to the the turbo inlet hose. The vent valve that I used is used OE VW part, not Uro.
 
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Since it's not convenient to remove the breather hose from the oil cap to add oil I did some more experimenting. I have a spare valve cover. I bored a 1-1/2 inch hole centering on the "O" farthest from the oil cap (rear of engine), then filed down the remaining remnants of the "O". I installed a Dodge V8 crankcase oil breather/separator cap (1-1/16" neck diameter) and rubber valve cover grommet. Grommet size has 1" ID and fits 1-1/2" hole. I have several of these Dodge V8 oil breather caps on hand and the grommet is $3. Parts look like this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/snn-10075/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-42344/overview/make/dodge
 
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I like it. Hope it works well cause it looks simple and effective. Did you run the large hose to the turbo inlet hose? T it into the large hose from the stock separator box?
 
Think I'm going to my friends junk yard on Saturday and use the drill press to do a better job of modifying my original valve cover to fit the VW crankcase vent valve. I think I can use several different hole saw sizes to turn down a circle at the "O" nearest the back of the valve cover, then use the proper size hole saw to cut the hole for a rubber grommet for the vent valve. The Valve cover needs a circle cut centering on the "O" to properly fit a rubber grommet. Need a rubber grommet with a 19 mm ID to fit the vent valve to the valve cover as done on a VW 2.0L. The OD is whatever is available that fits best. I'm thinking a performance rubber grommet for a cast aluminum valve cover for a V8 engine which I've already located at autozone.
 
Out of curiosity, what issues are you trying to fix with this?

Smoke out the exhaust due to bad valve seals. Planning to do the valve seals while the valve cover is off. Just got to figure out how to get at the valve seals. Thinking of building something to press down on the valve spring retainer to get at the keepers. I've done it before on a water cooled VW head, but the head was on the work bench.
 
Yesterday, Friday, I went to friends junk yard removed a valve cover and used drill press to drill 1-1/8 inch hole centering on the the "O" nearest the back of valve cover. I then filed down the remainder of the "O" to allow for a Dodge V8 rubber grommet meant for connecting a PCV valve which. The ID of this Dodge V8 rubber grommet is 3/4 inch instead of the 1 inch ID for the Dodge breather cap rubber grommet.

Today I swapped out the valve cover. I installed the VW crankcase vent valve on the valve cover as it was designed. I ran the OE crank case breather to the vent valve inlet. I then installed a B230F flame trap on the outlet of the vent valve and ran a hose from the flame trap to the turbo inlet hose. I connected the flame trap vacuum nipple to the intake manifold.

I used the B230F flame trap as it has a 25 mm inlet and a 16 mm outlet.

The VW vent valve has 22 mm inlet and outlet nipples. The vent valve inlet neck at the valve cover is 18 mm.
 
How is it working? I like the VW breather better. Hope it works well for you. My version definitely helped the engine run better and engine leak a bit less.
 
How is it working? I like the VW breather better. Hope it works well for you. My version definitely helped the engine run better and engine leak a bit less.

I still have smoke out of the exhaust when decelerating for a stop, more smoke with cold engine than with warm.

I'm assuming that the oil isn't fouling the plugs because I'm running Autolite Iridium plugs.

The vent valve is doing it's job, just need to stop the oil getting into the cylinder.
 
It's not oil vapor that leaks past leaky intake valve seals, it's liquid oil up around the valves, sucked through by the intake vacuum at anything less than WOT.

Crankcase ventilation isn't causing this. If you were having venting issues maybe you'd be blowing the dipstick out, or pushing oil past the crank seals or something.
 
If the plugs look ok then the oil may be from the turbo seals.

I've been wondering about the turbo seals but the weather has been too cold to make a pick & pull run to look for a turbo. The closest self serve yard is Fort Wayne, Indiana and They only have 2 Volvo's in inventory, one of those being a 1998 V70. No way if knowing if the car has a turbo without making the trip to check it out. According to my searching a 1998 V70 with a 2.4L could have a turbo with straight outlet flange.
 
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It's not oil vapor that leaks past leaky intake valve seals, it's liquid oil up around the valves, sucked through by the intake vacuum at anything less than WOT.

Crankcase ventilation isn't causing this. If you were having venting issues maybe you'd be blowing the dipstick out, or pushing oil past the crank seals or something.

No oil getting past the old dried up dip stick o-ring. No oil blowing past the crank or cam seals. When I tried draining the intercooler very little oil came out. It seems that there's not really much blow-by. Compression is good on all cylinders for a B230FT. Oil consuption is 300-400 miles per quart at this point.
 
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