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(formerly) The $700 1988 245

Man. Just read through your thread. You have had more issues than I could bare and you still just keep persevering like a boss. But then it dies again... Damn.

How you keep blowing head gaskets is unbelievable. First step I would do is get that lower belt cover and set that crank in the correct position and can timing. Right now you’re blind times. Could be causing more issues than you like. Even the idle/stalling coming to a stop.

Where are we standing now? Details.
 
PM me your address. I’ll send you some orange body injectors on me. I have dozens.
 
Man. Just read through your thread. You have had more issues than I could bare and you still just keep persevering like a boss. But then it dies again... Damn.

How you keep blowing head gaskets is unbelievable. First step I would do is get that lower belt cover and set that crank in the correct position and can timing. Right now you?re blind times. Could be causing more issues than you like. Even the idle/stalling coming to a stop.

Where are we standing now? Details.

Actually, the first time I replaced my headgasket I diagnosed it wrong. The second time it was definitely blown. I think I got the timing to -10 at idle, but I'm not sure I got it right. I managed to mostly eliminate the issue with it stalling when coming to a stop, but obviously it's back now that it only has 3 cylinders. Luckily, I have my other 240 and a family backup car (RAV4) so this car constantly breaking down isn't that much of an issue. I just gotta get around to rebuilding the engine that originally came with this car. And get a WB.

I will take you up on those injectors. PM incoming.
 
What FPR are you using? stock 240 one?

I assume whoever did the +t wasn't dumb enough to use the stock one. But said previous owner also left the original Chrysler box and unplugged the knock sensor...

I should stop assuming things. I was planning on buying a WB about now since I just bought an Ostrich from another user. I did have one, but it wouldn't work right and had to return it.
 
My advice is to take the fuel pressure regulator off and check that it is indeed a 3 bar. I never assume people do things right unless I'm watching or doing it myself. pull the 3 bolts and take the fpr off and check the part numbers. Some will say 3bar or 2.5 bar others will just have part numbers stamped in. Use that to figure out which one you have on there.
 
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All bearing surfaces and bores look fine to me, which I'm very happy about. Gave it a few coats of engine paint. Hopefully, if I work fast, I can do this before it gets really cold. Obviously this time I'll be replacing the injectors and getting a WB.

I also had to replace my carrier bearing recently, made a nice racket when it let go.

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Oops. Was measuring ring gaps and I noticed a couple cracks in the #2 piston ringlands. The remaining two pistons are fine. Now I gotta order another one...

L16sAHVh.jpg


Weirdly, I only had low compression on the #4 cylinder. (Piston on the right.)
 
Dang son. That’s crazy.
Wife keeps forgetting to ship your injectors. They are sitting there. I’ll try and get them out tomorrow.
 
Are you getting your crank polished ? I wouldn't trust a fingernail test to confirm that a crank is not damaged from that bearing.
 
New piston doesn't fit. It's about 1mm out of round at the bottom of the skirt.

EDIT: I'm an idiot. Bought an oversize piston.
 
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Now's your chance to drop some B230ft pistons in there.

But lower compression means more slow?

And less blow uppy, I suppose.. I would just grab a couple from the engine currently in the car, but it has a ton of piston slap so I dunno.

There's a turbo 7 series at the junkyard I plan on grabbing the T3 from tomorrow. No shaft play. Dunno why it's there though, no crash damage.
 
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