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Alternator relocation problems.

R

runslikeapenguin

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Location
Tacoma WA
Because of how busy a Volvo engine gets on the hot side, i planned to move my alternator to the drivers side of my engine. My alt has sitting on a 740 bracket for months now and i finally got around to getting belts because i scored a Group A pulley. Much to my surprise this setup wont work.

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I can't really go higher than the standard adjustment range because i run into the same contact issues plus i contacts the timing belt tensioner.

baTopJb.jpg


3MyUIIN.jpg


I'm not running power steering or anything, just the waterpump and the alt. But it doesn't look like its going to be possible to run the alt in any of the other locations.

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I did some reading and i wasn't able to come up with a solid answer as to how people have been running their alts on the drivers side of the engine. The only lead i came up with was the possibility of the 940 bracket working by moving the alternator lower. I did hear that it was steel though, so not great; but if it works ill take it.

any suggestions? I would like to skip trying to make an alt bracket.
 
Can you take a picture from farther away? Hard to gain perspective.
 
740/760/940 alternator/ac compressor bracket is aluminum. Part number is 3514231, 1336938, replaced by 6842481.
Fits:
740 85-92
760 85-90
780 86-91
940 91-98
940 SE 91-92
 
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I have no idea how it's usually done, but fabricate a small bracket and ad a smooth idler wheel, and use a longer belt? Looking at that picture there would be space right below the alternator bolt for an extra idler pulley/wheel.
 
well, for one, you're trying to make a B230 bracket work on a B21 or 23 it looks like. How far down does the alternator drop if you disconnect the tensioner? If you're intent on running it there, making a shortened tensioner may be the easiest solution.

I've got a B23FT on a stand in the shop that may have the bracket you're after.
 
I have a B230FT no Power Steering in my 240. Mounts are the same as yours. What I did was put the alternator on it's own with the standard 740 belt. The water pump and AC on another belt. That belt was a gates 13A1195. Hope this helps.
Gary
 
Sounds ghetto, but I just like to hack the top [alternator] portion of the stock bracket off, chuck the ac portion, and two of the bolt holes make it line up just fine with some slight enlarging of one of the holes on the lower part of the block.

WP_20141210_021_zps4ced7486.jpg


You can make it line up with a groove on the crank. For the water pump, I run a Gates belt [have the exact length/pn somewhere] straight off the crank to the water pump pulley, slips on with a tight fit.

The car at this point has about 2k track miles with zero belt issues :e-shrug:
 
How about you make your own upper bushings so that the center hole is eccentric so that the location of the alternator can be adjusted in, out, up, or down?
 
That alternator doesn't need 2 belts, just run only the outer belt. An AC belt is 13 mm x 975 mm, the Alternator/ water pump belt is 11.9 mm x 1000 mm. Use an AC belt with the wider width for the alternator/ water pump. You may need the next size longer AC belt (13 mm x 1000 mm) depending on the amount of adjustment available.
 
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lummert said:
740/760/940 alternator/ac compressor bracket is aluminum. Part number is 3514231, 1336938, replaced by 6842481.
Fits:
740 85-92
760 85-90
780 86-91
940 91-98
940 SE 91-92
Click to expand...

Correct me if I'm wrong but don't I have the 740 alt/ac compressor bracket?

I'll keep an eye out at the pick and pull for a 940 to show.
 
lummert said:
That alternator doesn't need 2 belts, just run only the outer belt. An AC belt is 13 mm x 975 mm, the Alternator/ water pump belt is 11.9 mm x 1000 mm. Use an AC belt with the wider width for the alternator/ water pump. You may need the next size longer AC belt (13 mm x 1000 mm) depending on the amount of adjustment available.
Click to expand...

This, and change that hex bolt out for a button head allen bolt
 
lummert said:
That alternator doesn't need 2 belts, just run only the outer belt. An AC belt is 13 mm x 975 mm, the Alternator/ water pump belt is 11.9 mm x 1000 mm. Use an AC belt with the wider width for the alternator/ water pump. You may need the next size longer AC belt (13 mm x 1000 mm) depending on the amount of adjustment available.
Click to expand...

The belt on the outer row still hits the bolt.
 
pat244ti said:
You can make it line up with a groove on the crank. For the water pump, I run a Gates belt [have the exact length/pn somewhere] straight off the crank to the water pump pulley, slips on with a tight fit.

The car at this point has about 2k track miles with zero belt issues :e-shrug:
Click to expand...

Hmmm, hadn't thought about that. Running the belt without a tensioner seems a bit sketchy though. I've been making a few changes with higher RPM in mind. I would think the single slip on water pump belt would get thrown up near 7k
 
VW Dasher Diesel used a 2 piece water pump pulley with shims. By arranging the shim stack between the pulley halves the belt tension could be adjusted (more shims = less tension, less shims = more tension) Any unused shims were simply installed in front of the pulley.
 
I was just looking under the hood of my 88 765T. Looks like you need to use a 700/900 power steering pump block mounting bracket to mount an adjustable idler pulley for the water pump belt. The alternator belt runs crank pulley to alternator.
 
lummert said:
VW Dasher Diesel used a 2 piece water pump pulley with shims. By arranging the shim stack between the pulley halves the belt tension could be adjusted (more shims = less tension, less shims = more tension) Any unused shims were simply installed in front of the pulley.
Click to expand...

I used to be a big ACVW guy. I know all about pulley shims.
 
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