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Marv's Wagon 91 240+t Megasquirt

That radiator looks extremely tall. I bought a eBay be cool knock off for the race car and it seems to hold up fine, those be cools are a lot of cash!
 
8.30.2014

Okay, this thread has been do for a major update for some time. The racing season is finally over so I have some time now.

Let's see...last I left off I had the universal 3" Be Cool radiator.
I did a lot of measuring before I bought it and I thought I had enough room for it to just drop in and it would have except for the filler neck. That extra inch of height isn't advertised so when I went to put the radiator in the hood wouldn't close.

Mounts I bought from Lowes. 2 L shaped pieces of steel bolted together. Cost like 6 bucks,
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/36011564@N02/14174733008" title="Radiator brackets by matt_miller, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5318/14174733008_9fd567c031.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Radiator brackets"></a>

The plan was to cut some of the, already starting to rust, radiator support so I could bolt the new radiator mounted to the old support. Sawzaw sawzaw sawzaw and I had enough room.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/36011564@N02/14399107563" title="20140608_152541 by matt_miller, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3906/14399107563_81e3d02131.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="20140608_152541"></a>

Test fit and it sits flush. Quite perfect actually.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/36011564@N02/14192519657" title="Radiator fits by matt_miller, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3860/14192519657_b3e6d33ec1.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Radiator fits"></a>

Added some foam on the mounts and the edges of the cut radiator support to keep it from wearing a whole in the radiator. I don't think that it would but just to be safe.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/36011564@N02/14399173121" title="20140611_204250 by matt_miller, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3873/14399173121_67fca42346.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="20140611_204250"></a>

All said and done and hood closes.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/36011564@N02/14399186741" title="20140611_204834 by matt_miller, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2929/14399186741_af2baecafd.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="20140611_204834"></a>
 
With the new radiator in place the routing for the lower radiator hose now meant it was in the way of the clutch fan where the blade was going to contact the hose. Herp derp, so back in goes the efan that I pulled out before. No big deal.

Drive it around for a bit until the wiring for the fan starts melting. Great.

The wiring for the efan had been a rats nest of stuff when I got it. There were some unused wires coming out of the relay and while it worked when I got the car it would need to be redone if I wanting it to work for more than a couple days.

Ground wire from the relay into the yellow signal wire from the MS.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/36011564@N02/14713330300" title="Wiring1 by matt_miller, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3919/14713330300_4e9de8177c.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Wiring1"></a>

Power for fan from old ignition coil wiring.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/36011564@N02/14713402718" title="Wiring2 by matt_miller, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5579/14713402718_8d062a9bbd.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Wiring2"></a>

Power for the fan comes out of the 12V from the old ignition coil. I don't know if this is THE way to do it but it seems to work fine. Basically I cut out the entire old efan wiring harness and rewired the whole thing. Dave Barton set me up with all the wiring and connectors I needed to redo the harness. The old relay was an air conditioning relay which explained all of the extra wires. Now the fan runs no problem. No burning up the harness or any of that non-sense. Super happy.
 
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Next, I found some rimpz from DET17. He had a set of hydras with center caps and a set of Propus. The hydras had tires so I put the Hydra's on while I source some spacers, recon the wheels, and put tires on them.

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/36011564@N02/15063099776" title="hydras by matt_miller, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3907/15063099776_0a1a9692e2.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="hydras"></a>

I know people hate on hydras on 240's but I kinda like them. Haters gonna hate.

Thinking about painting the Propus centers gold like this guy did. A little darker though I think.
111ij3p.jpg
 
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Today, I started painting the trim black. Mine is a 91 so I was 1 year too soon for the all black Turbo trim that volvo put on the 240's. Story I've read is that they were going to stop producing 240's and had a bunch of turbo trim left over.

I've used SEM paint on my grey sedan and I like it but I wanted to try some plastidip and see how it looked. It was actually really easy to use and layed down pretty good. I bought 2 cans and was able to do both mirrors, the lower door trim on both sides, the entire rear bumper and butt cheeks, and the front and rear belt line trim on both sides. I need to get some more so I can do the front bumper, the chrome trim above the doors, front grill and the rear hatch hinges. I masked everything off with blue painters tape and then shot it. I thin it works best if you do this and then pull the painters tape up while the dip is still wet. Otherwise some of the over spray will try to stick to the newspaper/tape which is less than ideal.

Dip yo
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/36011564@N02/15086046662" title="plastidip by matt_miller, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5572/15086046662_3037ef9ae1.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="plastidip"></a>

Trim painted versus unpainted trim.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/36011564@N02/15086046442" title="trim before and after by matt_miller, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5582/15086046442_c91f2b2b73.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="trim before and after"></a>

Entire rear bumper and butt cheeks, lower door trim on both sides, both mirrors, front and rear belt line trim. Need to get more paint to do the rest.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/36011564@N02/14899536327" title="trim painted by matt_miller, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3872/14899536327_9ac2c0c094.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="trim painted"></a>

I need to put new lenses on the tail lights and I want to put an egg crate grill in it. To be continued.
 
10.15.2014

New stuff!

I finally got a chance to get the Propus wheels put on and stuff. To mount these, you need spacers as the FWD Propus wheels have a 43mm versus the 20mm offset of any rear wheel drive volvo wheel. I elected to go with some of Ben's spacers (1"/25mm spacer) and extended studs over some of the other spacers that bolt to the stock studs and then have studs bonded into the spacer.

http://www.kaplhenke.com/products/240-extended-wheel-studs-wheel-spacers

Ben's stuff is a little spendy but the quality of the stuff is legit. The spacer itself is a really nice piece of aluminum and the steel extended studs are super nice as well. Now my car lived in Ohio it's whole life before I brought it down to the A so there's a good bit of rust on a lot of the underbody. The calipers and rotors have a fair amount of rust on them and the rear dust shields lol had holes rusted through them.

So for the fronts, I was initially thinking I would need to take the hub off and then put it on a bench to get the old studs out and the new ones in. Fortunately I didn't need to do this. For the fronts I just took the wheel off and just knocked the old studs out with a hammer. To get the new studs in, I took a english bit from my ratchet set (since I never will use anything english) to act as a spacer and used a lug nut screwed on backwards to pull the new stud into the hub.

<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/36011564@N02/15540029081/player/" width="450" height="800" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>

I used an air ratchet for speed but you could do this by hand. Using the air ratchet I could get 2-3 studs in before that lug nut was trashed and wouldn't thread onto the stud any more. easy peasy.

The rears on the other hand were more of a pain in the ass. I was initially thinking I could do the same with the rears as I did with the fronts except I forgot about the dust shield. With the shield there I could knock the old studs out but couldn't get the new ones in so that shield needed to come off one way or another. So I cut that bitch off. It was rusty anyway so why not? So cut the shield off and the new studs go in no problem. Air ratchet one side on and then moved to the next.

<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/36011564@N02/15547072382/player/" width="800" height="450" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>

I was going to cut the other shield off but as I was hitting it to try and bend it the axle came out of the rear end....okay guess I'll pull the axle out. This was actually so much easier than trying to cut the stupid shield. Pull the axle and the shield just slides off. At this point I just put the axle in a vice and knocked the old studs out and used an air hammer to knock the new ones in. Again, you could probably hammer the new studs in or used a spacer and backwards lug nut to pull them in. I am lucky I have good friends that have six digits worth of tools they let me borrow.

So new studs in, axle put back in, put the spacer over the studs, then rotor, put the brake caliper back on and then put the wheel on.

Finished product.
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/36011564@N02/15321765659/player/" width="800" height="450" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>

The tires are Michelin Pilot Super Sports in 225/45R17 and I really like them so far. So much grip and they're not loud at all on the highway. There is zero wheel rub even at full steering lock.

Next plans are the brakes. Now that I've torn the front and rear brakes apart doing the wheel studs the rotors and calipers are really really rusty. I want to do big brakes on at least the front eventually but I don't want to spend the money on it right now so I'm thinking I'm going to just get some reman'd calipers from FCP and some cross drilled rotors and call it a day. I'm still not sure if I want to paint the wheels gold/bronze or not. At first I was thinking I wanted to but now that they're on the car I'm not sure.
 
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Marvelous3 said:
Ben's stuff is a little spendy but the quality of the stuff is legit. The spacer itself is a really nice piece of aluminum and the steel extended studs are super nice as well.
Click to expand...
:nod:


lol, thats a carbon copy of my setup.... same color, same year, same model, same spacers, same wheels, same studs, same tires.

Super sports are some of the best tires you can get now a days IMO if you want something sporty but aren't racing.

and now you got some BNE in your hubs.
 
blkaplan said:
:nod:


lol, thats a carbon copy of my setup.... same color, same year, same model, same spacers, same wheels, same studs, same tires.

Super sports are some of the best tires you can get now a days IMO if you want something sporty but aren't racing.

and now you got some BNE in your hubs.
Click to expand...

What are you using for lug nuts? I've just got the stock open ended ones on their now which don't look awesome. I was worried if I bought FWD ones that were capped I would bottom out the lug nut before it was threaded all the way tight.
 
Took the wagon up to Dahlonega, GA Friday before halloween to do some hiking and driving. The michelin pilot super sports are some of the best tires I've driven on. I can throw it into the turns coming down off the mounting and it just carves.

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/36011564@N02/15511328778" title="Dahlonega by matt_miller, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7483/15511328778_ff45cc6711_c.jpg" width="800" height="480" alt="Dahlonega"></a>
 
Wren said:
You still running stock anti-sways?

Damn, those are some busy-looking wheels.
Click to expand...

Yeah the sways are still stockidy stock stock.

But they're propus C's. Such fat tire. Many widths.

The brakes still suck though and I need to mount the oil cooler.
 
How is this car coming along? I have been tinkering with the idea of buying the spacers to throw my propus on my 245, are you still happy having spacers and 17's on this thing?
 
Old Iron said:
How is this car coming along? I have been tinkering with the idea of buying the spacers to throw my propus on my 245, are you still happy having spacers and 17's on this thing?
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm really liking the 17's. I think they're a really good size for the car and the tire choices in 17's are so much better than what you'd find in say a 15.

Ben's stuff is a little spendy but the quality is really top notch. The reason I did Ben's spacers with extended studs instead of those ones with the stud bonded into the spacer was worry about the strength of the bond. It's probably nervous nancy worry but I didn't want to have any worry in the back of my mind about a wheel coming off.

I still need to finish blacking out the trim and respray the front bumper. I just haven't had the free time lately to finish it up.
 
Ohh I get that completely! I have passed on many sets of spacers bc I would prefer to just buy new and have peace of mind! My car is over at the mechanic getting 3k make over! My Propus are going I that car! I know he is going to give me $hit for putting spacers and bigger wheels, but oh well! They look freakig awesome on your car!!!
 
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