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Old 02-03-2010, 01:02 PM   #1
dman535
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Default Turbo Airbox Lid Retention Clips

Most of the clips on my factory airbox are missing with broken shards of plastic where they used to mount. Any tips or tricks on sealing the airbox lid with the missing clips ?
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Old 02-03-2010, 01:06 PM   #2
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I was thinking of trying some strips of thin sheet metal cut to the width of the bottom of the clip, thread the strip through the clip and fold it over, then pop rivet this to the bottom (edit: read side) of the box.

For a temp fix on one car, I used some rope around the box, works fine. Plastic tie straps, lots of them strung together, should work too.
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Last edited by Three Fat Tigers; 02-03-2010 at 02:41 PM..
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Old 02-03-2010, 01:15 PM   #3
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The clips for the headlight lenses work great too, they fit nicely. At least the Ecode clamps are good for this, not sure about the headlights you have.
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Old 02-03-2010, 01:34 PM   #4
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They don't have clips like that sadly. I am ditching my air box for this reason and doing a heat shield and a cone filter.
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Old 02-03-2010, 01:55 PM   #5
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IME, every RWD Volvo I"ve tried that↑ on has lost power, mostly torque; turbo or NA. Stock air box has proven superior every time.
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Old 02-03-2010, 01:58 PM   #6
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Default 940 Turbo Airbox Lid Retention Clips

I removed the airbox in my 88 765 last summer and fastened some latches to the top and bottom parts and then used zip-ties to assure that the latches did not come unlatched. I found the latches in the hardware catalog at NAPA. They only cost about $2.50 for a package of 2. I used four Latches. I don't remember the part numbers.
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Old 02-03-2010, 01:59 PM   #7
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got any pictures of that?
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:29 PM   #8
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Default 940 Turbo Airbox Lid Retention Clips

I still have a clip in my car as I had to buy another package as I ruined one of the clips. If I look hard I may still have a reciept from NAPA or one of the packages in the back of my car. I keep all of the reciepts from the parts stores, I just don't have a good filing system.
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Old 02-03-2010, 04:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Three Fat Tigers View Post
IME, every RWD Volvo I"ve tried that↑ on has lost power, mostly torque; turbo or NA. Stock air box has proven superior every time.
Hmmm I am curious to see what it does then. That doesn't seem to make a lot of sense because the stock air box looks like it would be really restrictive.

To the OP, I have considered drilling through mine and adding bolts or something.
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Old 02-03-2010, 06:24 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Three Fat Tigers View Post
IME, every RWD Volvo I"ve tried that↑ on has lost power, mostly torque; turbo or NA. Stock air box has proven superior every time.
Really?? Dynoed? I'd be shocked.

Clips wise, hardware stores sell stick-on clips that work fairly well. I'll see if i can find a pic.
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Old 02-03-2010, 07:10 PM   #11
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I did something similar with my wife's 760. I used knockout blanks from a new breaker box that I installed in a house. I made two small cuts and bent up little tabs, drilled each tab to accept the spring clip, and pop riveted them to the box. Worked really well. I'll try to get a pic tomorrow if anybody wants to see it.
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Old 02-04-2010, 06:49 AM   #12
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I would like to see the knockout blank repair. That sounds better than my Home Depot 2" c-clamp "fix".
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Old 02-04-2010, 07:10 AM   #13
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I made my own cold air kit a couple of years ago and I can tell you by the seat-o-meter and the fact the car will now bark 3rd gear I thing it was an improvement. Being able to pulled beside a ricer and letting them hear the turbo blow off (which is not audible with the stock air box) is priceless!!!
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Old 02-04-2010, 07:39 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlcallaway View Post
I did something similar with my wife's 760. I used knockout blanks from a new breaker box that I installed in a house. I made two small cuts and bent up little tabs, drilled each tab to accept the spring clip, and pop riveted them to the box. Worked really well. I'll try to get a pic tomorrow if anybody wants to see it.
Would be great to see pics
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Old 02-04-2010, 08:39 AM   #15
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I had to replace my 940t air box with one from an 87 740t and it seems the earlier plastic is much stouter.
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Old 02-04-2010, 09:46 AM   #16
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I found a hardware store in Texas that has almost identical clips AND with a base that could be pop riveted or bolted on. They work very well and look almost original. I'll try to dig up the info for you.

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Old 02-04-2010, 10:20 AM   #17
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Drywall Screws, fine or course thread does not matter
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Old 02-04-2010, 10:26 AM   #18
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The drywall screws that I've seen used caused the seal part of the air filter to split, allowing some unfiltered air inside the box.
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Old 02-04-2010, 05:50 PM   #19
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Default latches

I found some draw latches in the Mcmaster Carr online catalogue, part #1889A22. Take the air box out, fit the latch where the old ones sat, with a little tension on the clip, drill and pop rivet the latch in. When you see a pic of the latch it will be clear. I replaced all of them on my car several years ago.
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Old 02-04-2010, 11:50 PM   #20
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thats how it was on my old airbox.
put some jbweld on the backside to make sure its sealed.
i BELIEVE those clips came from osh or home depot. but could probably be sourced at almost any hardware store.
that was a while ago. dont remember the specific part numbers or names or anything, just go in and look for something like this. they dont have it, go to the next part store.
or mcmaster carr apparantly has what you need.
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Old 02-05-2010, 06:10 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed945t View Post
I found some draw latches in the Mcmaster Carr online catalogue, part #1889A22. Take the air box out, fit the latch where the old ones sat, with a little tension on the clip, drill and pop rivet the latch in. When you see a pic of the latch it will be clear. I replaced all of them on my car several years ago.
Amazing, so they are called draw-latches:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#draw-latches

The "G" latch on that page looks perfect.
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Old 02-05-2010, 06:33 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dman535 View Post
Would be great to see pics
Well, I went out and tried to get pics, but couldn't come up with anything worth posting.

Here's a little diagram that might help explain what I did. The metal was a knock-out blank from a home breaker box, but 16ga. sheet metal would work, too. The bracket is about an inch wide and 1-1/2 inches long. I made two hacksaw cuts and drilled 3 holes as seen in the drawing. Then I bent up the small tabs created by the cuts, and inserted the spring clips into the holes. The third hole was used to pop-rivet the bracket to the plastic airbox, after dremeling off the remainder of the old molded plastic bracket.

Before you say you don't have the spring clips, take the airbox out and look under it. All my broken-off clips were rattling around under there.

Hope this makes sense.
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File Type: jpg bracket.jpg (23.0 KB, 169 views)

Last edited by tiredoldtommy; 02-05-2010 at 02:24 PM.. Reason: new info
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Old 02-05-2010, 06:39 AM   #23
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OK. Go to austinhardware.com. You want item #HC 255 ZN. Tell me that doesn't look original.
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Old 02-05-2010, 05:25 PM   #24
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^^^^^I edited my previous post, but it didn't bump the thread. So, bump for and explanation and diagram of the airbox clip solution.
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Old 02-06-2010, 10:37 AM   #25
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Default draw latches

I got some pics of the McMaster latches I used. Honest Johns work as well. The ones I use clip on the lid where the OE ones did. I added one extra on the inboard side and grooved a slot with a dremel.
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