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Stuck brake lines -removal tips?

mark244turbo

New member
Joined
Sep 18, 2010
Location
Netherlands
I am trying to remove the brake lines from my old 1986 volvo 740.
I can break the hose free at the calliper end, but the hose fitting on the inner fender is stuck.

What's the best way to remove stuck brake lines?
 
Make sure you are using a good quality, flared nut wrench. Soak the fitting in PB Blaster regularly (ideally for days in advance.) When you're ready to remove, alternate between 1) heating with a torch, 2) quenching with PB Blaster, and 3) carefully trying to loosen the nut (try turning both directions actually, you just need to break the rust seal.) Take your time repeating this sequence over and over.

I learned this technique only after striping one nut and having to cut and reflare the lines...
 
Make sure you are using a good quality, flared nut wrench. Soak the fitting in PB Blaster regularly (ideally for days in advance.) When you're ready to remove, alternate between 1) heating with a torch, 2) quenching with PB Blaster, and 3) carefully trying to loosen the nut (try turning both directions actually, you just need to break the rust seal.) Take your time repeating this sequence over and over.

Thanks for the tip.
I did the soaking days in advance.
I have a good quality flared nut wrench.
Will try the heating and turning in both directions.

I learned this technique only after striping one nut and having to cut and reflare the lines...

That's exactly what i try to avoid.
 
Saturate it with some PB Blaster and go drink a 6 pack. by the time you get a good buzz, hit those lines with the tightest box wrench you can get on there. then hold the bracket end with some vice grips(not the brake line). that PB should've penetrated good enough to loosen the nut. if not, hit with some more PB blaster and this time, go play with the kids or do something else. I've had some seriously seized bolts on suspension parts before and that PB is great stuff and it truly works. I swear by it.
 
Saturate it with some PB Blaster and go drink a 6 pack. by the time you get a good buzz, hit those lines with the tightest box wrench you can get on there. then hold the bracket end with some vice grips(not the brake line). that PB should've penetrated good enough to loosen the nut. if not, hit with some more PB blaster and this time, go play with the kids or do something else. I've had some seriously seized bolts on suspension parts before and that PB is great stuff and it truly works. I swear by it.

We use that all the time on hydraulic and other lines in the factory I work in. Great stuff.
 
I heated the fittings a couple of times. Sprayed it with more WD40 and tried to turn it in both directions. So far, without result.

I'll let it soak some more and try later again.
 
personally, I wouldn't recommend heating them...that's brake fluid, it can catch on fire.
 
When one of my lines was really stuck after heating and spraying with pblaster. Rounded with a good box wrench. And still would not come off. I cut the line at the nut. Rented flare tool and put on a new nut and flare. It is important to remember that our cars use a bubble flare and most auto parts stores around here have never heard of a bubble flare let alone the tool to make them, so I got the v flare tool or what ever it is called and a v flare to bubble adapter, as well as a short section of brake line to practice making the flare. A year later still leak free. Good luck hopefully you do not have to go through all that.
 
I heated the fittings a couple of times. Sprayed it with more WD40 and tried to turn it in both directions. So far, without result.

I'll let it soak some more and try later again.

Don't waste your time with WD-40 it's a lubricant not a rust penetrant. Get either a 50/50 acetone Power steering fluid(I've also heard of ATF being used) mix or get KROIL from Kano Labs.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f7/best-rust-penetrant-ever-you-make-yourself-552838/#post5159988

I personally have KROIL and love it. MUCH better than WD-40 ever was. Just don't let it get into your clothes. Smell is pretty serious.
 
Kroil is indeed one of the smelliest things in an aerosol can that I've ever had the pleasure to use.:omg: :omg: :nod:. It also works very well on most of the rusted/corroded/stuck parts I've tried it on. As a last resort, if you're going to replace the brake line anyway, go ahead and snip off or cut the rubber section of hose right close to the fitting, then you can use a six point socket on that fitting, at least. You're still hamstrung for the backing wrench, though.:grrr:
 
If it won't come out, I usually cut the line right at the fitting. Then take a good socket the right size an use an impact to remove the stuck fitting. It works majority of the time. I also don't suggest using a torch.
 
while looking for pblaster or kroil, i stumled upon this.

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
>> *Penetrating oil ..... Average load*
>> None ..................... 516 pounds
>> WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
>> PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
>> Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
>> Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
>> ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds
>>
>> The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch
>> and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

now i only need to find aceton.
 
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