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Old 02-17-2016, 09:48 PM   #51
canyoneagle
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More fuel system progress today.
In-tank pump upgrade kit is still on backorder at IPD due to the filter sock. Ugh. not likely to have it for the weekend. Good thing I haven't pulled the bung yet.

This evening I got the old filter out and removed the main pump/accumulator assembly. They are both pretty crispy.

New pump arrives tomorrow.
I plan to look into how to test the accumulator. I'm inclined to just replace it, but my budget is already long since gone for this initial work
When I removed the filter (prior to the accumulator/pump) there was no spurt of pressurized fuel..... none. just a little drip. Same at the accumulator end - no sign of any held pressure in the system. So, I'm guessing it is a goner.



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Old 02-17-2016, 11:01 PM   #52
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IIRC the accumulator only holds fuel pressure for a few hrs...I'd just keep the one you have for now. When you test your fuel pressure you will be able to see if there's a lot of fluctuation in the line pressure which would indicate the accumulator is not damping the pulses as it should.
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Old 02-17-2016, 11:07 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo View Post
IIRC the accumulator only holds fuel pressure for a few hrs...I'd just keep the one you have for now. When you test your fuel pressure you will be able to see if there's a lot of fluctuation in the line pressure which would indicate the accumulator is not damping the pulses as it should.
Good to know. I'm a total newbie to K-Jet, so I appreciate the info.
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Old 02-17-2016, 11:12 PM   #54
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If you haven't found them already, there is a wealth of information on K-Jet here (specifically the "CI Fuel Injection Construction" manuals): http://www.k-jet.org/documents/green...ion+2+-+Engine
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Old 02-18-2016, 07:33 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo View Post
If you haven't found them already, there is a wealth of information on K-Jet here (specifically the "CI Fuel Injection Construction" manuals): http://www.k-jet.org/documents/green...ion+2+-+Engine
I have been looking at the K-Jet site quite a bit in the past few weeks, and have printed out numerous green books. Excellent resource there. I've also come across a great video from the early 80's that introduces the K-Jet system components and functions. Poor quality video, but really informative introduction. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4fJAfXYxWk
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Old 02-18-2016, 09:08 AM   #56
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This is the fuel pump that will arrive today. Looks like I will need to re-do the wiring due to the fact that the original pump is no longer made, and the new pump has a different configuration for the electrical connections.

It isn't apparent (to me) in the picture, but this pump does not appear to have a check valve, unless it is the fitting between the electrical posts. Should a check valve be installed on the pump outlet prior to the accumulator, or perhaps on the accumulator outlet?

EDIT - looking at the green books, the only mention of a check valve that I see is for the fuel tank pump. For some reason I had it in my head that there was a check valve in the main pump assembly.


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Old 02-18-2016, 09:51 PM   #57
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Question answered.... check valve is there.

LOVE the paint quality

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Old 02-19-2016, 10:37 AM   #58
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So..... new fuel pump is in da house....
I've had the IPD in-tank upgrade kit on order (the fuel strainer sock is backordered) for 2 weeks now, but I have found a kit locally and will cancel the IPD order.

So, I will be able to get the fuel system back together tomorrow and hopefully fire the old girl up.
-fingers crossed-
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Old 02-20-2016, 09:18 PM   #59
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Productive day today. Got both new fuel pumps and the new filter in without too much fanfare - had to cut some length from the tank hard line, re-wire the main pump, and modify the main pump/accumulator bracket, but I got everything back in and working.

Still no start.

Light was fading so I got a brief start on troubleshooting. I cleaned the aux air valve, verified that the cold start injector was spraying, and replaced some vacuum and other hoses in the intake area.

Battery is trickle charging and I'll get a fresh start with the K-jet manuals in hand tomorrow.



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Old 02-20-2016, 11:15 PM   #60
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Have you tried to move the K-Jet flapper 'till you hear the injectors working as I suggested before?
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Old 02-21-2016, 12:53 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petiww View Post
Have you tried to move the K-Jet flapper 'till you hear the injectors working as I suggested before?
Haven't had a chance yet - I had the filter and pump removed. That's on the list.
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Old 02-21-2016, 05:33 PM   #62
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SUCCESS!!!!
Got the old girl fired up.
I tested the injectors, and they were fine (jumper pump fuses, lift air sensor plate).

Thinking things through, I had a niggling suspicion that something must not be right with the timing belt, so I re-installed it and voila! car started.

While the battery was disconnected, I went ahead and removed and checked all of the fuses, then used electrical cleaner and a wire brush to clean the fuse holder. It wasn't too bad, but it felt good to at least go through the process.

It runs like s$$%t and now needs a methodical tune up - timing, fuel/air, etc, but it is now running.

In driving it around the block, I noticed severe hesitation under load - the car did not want to rev past about 2k (no tach, so guessing) so I had to shift at low revs. On hills I could only manage about 15 MPH with no response to additional throttle.

When idling (parked, no load), I could coax the motor up to higher revs.

Time to dive deep into the K-Jet tuning process........
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Old 02-21-2016, 07:43 PM   #63
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Good to hear!

Quote:
Originally Posted by canyoneagle View Post
While the battery was disconnected, I went ahead and removed and checked all of the fuses, then used electrical cleaner and a wire brush to clean the fuse holder. It wasn't too bad, but it felt good to at least go through the process.
Cover those brushed surfaces with some kind of ph-neutral grease (electrical grease?) and you don't have to worry about it for a long time!

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Originally Posted by canyoneagle View Post
Time to dive deep into the K-Jet tuning process........
Good luck with that, but at first you should make sure every other thing that is not adjustable is fine and working good. Long process, but don't start with turning the mixture screw...

You should also check if the injectors spray equally the same amount, who knows what's inside the distributor.

However I can't tell much more K-Jet hacks like the previous, because the Coupe is still waiting for a paintjob and we haven't dig into the depths of K-Jet, and probably we rarely will, because meanwhile my brother bought a 5cyl 7A 20v ECU controlled engine for it.

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Old 02-21-2016, 11:19 PM   #64
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Congrats! Too bad it's running rough...but sounds like you've got a good plan to track down the issue(s).
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Old 02-22-2016, 07:39 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petiww View Post
but don't start with turning the mixture screw...


Yep, gonna keep that 3mm in the toolbox until I really need it.

I hope to get back on it early this week. I want to shoot timing, then start going through the K-Jet troubleshooting info in the greenbook (and any other resources I have).
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Old 02-24-2016, 07:50 AM   #66
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No progress since the weekend - it's been rainy here, and the car is now parked on the street in front of impolvo's house.
I plan to shoot/set timing tomorrow in hopes of being able to drive it home and park it at my new place - I will finally have my own space to wrench after a couple of years without any form of work space.
We close (hopefully) on Tuesday - fingers crossed that all of the paperwork gets finalized today.
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Old 02-25-2016, 08:04 AM   #67
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Backordered K-Jet test kit arrived.......

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Old 02-25-2016, 11:53 AM   #68
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Can't wait to see her in all her glory, back on the road.

Grats on closing on a place. That's a long and strenuous process, from my experience.
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Old 02-25-2016, 11:55 AM   #69
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Don't touch that mixture screw.
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My Project (It's a 1979 244DL...sort of.)
K-Jet to Megasquirt Article

The Departed: 1981 245, 1983 245 Turbo, 1983 244 Turbo, 1983 242 Turbo, 1984 244, 1985 245 Turbo, 1989 244, 1989 765, 1990 245 Turbo, 1991 244, 1992 245, 1997 855
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Old 02-25-2016, 01:11 PM   #70
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That looks like a pretty slick kit.

Start with checking the line pressure and control pressure.
Target values listed here (and in the Greenbook): http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=289775
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Old 02-25-2016, 01:18 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by propav8r View Post
Don't touch that mixture screw.
mmm mmm..... nope.
Not planning to do that unless all other efforts fail....

I am hoping that it is primarily a timing issue..
When I was lining things up for the timing belt install, I noticed that the dizzy was lining up - BARELY - with the mark on the housing, but at the trailing edge of the dizzy conductor. This leads me to believe that it is probably running a bit on the "too much advance" side of things. The slotted distributor mount is maxed out to the farthest "delay/retard" possible, so there is no space to delay the spark.

If this is the case(too much advance), and correct me if I'm wrong (because I often am), I am guessing that the distributor itself is off by a few teeth, so the mark on the accessory gear (timing belt wheel for the dizzy) might not be correct.
If all this is true, my inclination would be to turn the distributor gear 2-3 teeth counterclockwise from the indexing mark on the belt, and center the distributor in the slot range, and re-check timing. (or, alternatively, re-install the distributor)

This is all predicated on the spark being too far advanced.
If the opposite is true, I have the whole range of the mounting slot to advance the spark

Did any of that make any sense?

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Old 02-25-2016, 01:23 PM   #72
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Couple things need to happen. The aux shaft gear needs to be aligned with the timing mark on the cover.



The distrubutor rotor needs to point at the mark on the distributor housing



THEN you can set the timing by rotating the distributor.
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Old 02-25-2016, 01:30 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by propav8r View Post
Couple things need to happen. The aux shaft gear needs to be aligned with the timing mark on the cover.



The distrubutor rotor needs to point at the mark on the distributor housing



THEN you can set the timing by rotating the distributor.
Yup,
When I lined everything up (all gears lined up with their indexing marks), all marks on the belt lined up with the right marks on the gears, the distributor was turned farther clockwise from what you show in your photo. Instead of being centered, it was barely at the trailing edge (turned more clockwise).

this is why I suspect it may (for whatever reason) may be off.
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Old 02-25-2016, 01:33 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by canyoneagle View Post
Yup,
When I lined everything up (all gears lined up with their indexing marks), all marks on the belt lined up with the right marks on the gears, the distributor was turned farther clockwise from what you show in your photo. Instead of being centered, it was barely at the trailing edge (turned more clockwise).

this is why I suspect it may (for whatever reason) may be off.
Eh, you're probably fine if you never took the distributor out of the block. They don't always line up pointing right at that mark.

One tooth one way or the other on the distributor gear is a big jump.
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Old 02-25-2016, 01:33 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by propav8r View Post
THEN you can set the timing by rotating the distributor.
In my case, I can ONLY set more advance, since the distributor is maxed out in the direction of retarding the spark.
This is why I was waxing philisophical about "pre-retarding" things at the timing belt (spinning the dist. gear counterclockwise) .

Again, just seeing if there is a possibility that the distributor gears (inside the block) got turned 1-2 teeth when installed (if it was removed at some point in the past), throwing things off a bit
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