"Brick in a box" - (1991) 245 "stealth" project car

Was going to say while you have everything out, double up the ground wire by using 2 8 gauge wires, it makes a very noticeable difference in output.

Also yeah man, you gotta come to the meet next weekend

Yup it's in the Tampa area. Hope you can make it out man! Engine looks fantastic all put together!

Which ground wire are you referring to? The alt?

We'll see about Tampa, I don't get paid till next week, but if someone wants to buy the wheels i have for sale, that would fund the trip.

Sharingan 19 said:

Which ground wire are you referring to? The alt?

Click to expand...

Sorry, yes...

It made a big difference.

Well, I guess I'll have to get under there and run an additional 8 gauge ground at some point because...




Stupid HF lift has the shortest boom I've ever seen, the engine was a full 6" in front of the mount holes, so we had to just push it backward as we lowered it (against the tension of the chains). Once the oil pan cleared the crossmember I just put a jack under the trans and disconnected all but the front lift point so we could get it into position.

This of course would all be unnecessary if the boom was 6-8" longer

Trans Install PSA

Well, word to the wise, don't bolt up your trans before installing your shifter, because you will never get that pin installed without having to drop the trans again.

Also, you will never get the trans cross member installed with the engine mounts bolted in (unless you have some for of mechanical advantage). MUCH easier to bolt in the trans crossmember first, then tighten the engine mounts.

Ok, back to work.

Much screaming was involved but I did get the shifter pin with the trans up in the car

Also yeah the trans crossmember is a bitch..

looking great! nice to see this coming down to the point it can be driven again.

nice job

Simi said:

Much screaming was involved but I did get the shifter pin with the trans up in the car

Also yeah the trans crossmember is a bitch..

Click to expand...

Well, after I got it installed and bolted back up, I looked from the top and realized I'd installed the 7 series pin (it's about a cm longer than the 2 series) so that may have been part of the difficulty. Actually with the motor mounts unbolted, the crossmember wasn't too bad.

Unfortunately, I'll have the joy of doing it again, since I discovered the OD harness that came with the trans I bought is disentigrating and I have to build a new one....

Reuvers said:

looking great! nice to see this coming down to the point it can be driven again.

Click to expand...

suterman said:

nice job

Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliments guys, this build just became a bit more important due to recent events...


Since it's raining (and has been for like 12 straight hrs) I think I'll search for some wiring diagrams and see what I can get accomplished indoors today.

Sorry bout your rx7

Though with the wiring harness, I bought a full m46 one but actually didn't technically need it (sadly I kinda ruined its value removing the overdrive wire). Thing is I got a later one that used the RED relay. With that I only had to add one wire for the overdrive lockout, otherwise we transferred everything else over from the automatic wiring harness.

So I swapped the relay in, ran the wire from the lockout pin to the switch on the side of the trans, connected the reverse lights, bypassed the neutral safety switch by splicing the two wires together and running the wire to the overdrive solenoid.

The only thing is that the overdrive light will always be on in the cluster till you engage it on the highway, I don't mind it really but it may bug you.

Thanks, funny thing is, most of what was damaged was on the list of things to be upgraded once I got the Volvo on the road, so it's just more motivation.

The m46 I bought came with a harness too, unfortunately it was crumbling inside the loom, so after I installed the trans I had to drop it so I could rebuild it. On top of that I used a shifter from a late 740 m46 and the OD connector is apparently different. I Harvested the useful connectors from the Auto gear selector harness.


I actually used Dave Barton's diagram and that didn't jive too well with the harness I had or the wires in the car. So to be consistent I just followed his diagram, re-pinned stock connectors and used the existing OD relay socket, although I had to swap the ground and brown wire location.


Velcro'd the relay to the ducting behind the dash because the Auto OD relay was way back in there and it would be a pain to get to if I put it in the same place.



Only question is with the reverse switch, I ran the two wires from the switch on the trans to the left most 3 pin connector, but I can't find a wiring diagram that actually shows what color wires I need to connect them to. On the auto there were two 2 pin connectors (one blue + blue/yellow and one black+yellow) So I figure it's got to be one of those.

Awesome work man. Great job documenting it as well. I guess i'll leave this here:

Do work JP.
Looks like you are the one hitting my car's before I get to them lol. I keep finding cars stripped of stuff thinking who the hell around here has volvo's??

As for that 242.. I have a story. I know the owner, I ran into him at the gas station in Middleburg and talked a bit. He said he couldn't keep that 242 running for nothing. So I offered to help him but he refused. So after a while he called me and asked if I wanted to buy it. I offered $2k for it but he wanted $5k. So I had to decline. About one week later, my buddy that works at that yard said they were bringing in a sweet 242 turbo, so I went up there and it was his. I stripped everything I needed for myself and then that fuel pump a week or so later. You should have grabbed it, he bought it and never ran the car with it and the in tank pump too. Stripped all the interior etc. Anyways, I called him and told him I was stripping his car and he laughed, he said he sold it to them for $150! What a fool. He still has his Limited Edition 245 from Sweden he imported here but wont sell it.

Well if you ever want to get up or need help, let me know. Keep up the work and if you need anything I have tons of stuff.

I also have the virgo wheels off that 242 if you want them.

Thanks for the sig Walter!

apparently that cuts both ways, I pulled a gold box ezk and matching ecu from a 940 a few weeks back, and I accidentally left them in a 93' 240 I was grabbing the seats out of. Went back a few days later and they were gone... Can't imagine it's a large group in jax that would recognize those items sitting in the wrong car...

I knew there had to be a story behind that car! It was in way too good a condition to be the typical neglected junker.

I grabbed the turbo setup T3 > Mitsu , and I wish I would have grabbed that K-jet cobra box. For better or worse all my car $ was tied up in the M46 I got from Bob, and the +T setup from Ray or I would have grabbed more. I also got the power mires and wiring harness, but that will be another mini project.

Most definitely!

Your going to be ready for saturday right

Finally fixed the 740 clutch master

So this morning santa clause stopped by in his big white purple and orange sleigh...


I was determined to make this clutch master work, since:
A) a 260 MC was more than I wanted to spend
B) I got this one for $10 and
C) upon dissasembly all the seals were in great condition and the bore blemish free.

Originally the plan was to cut off the stock plastic clevis and weld on a bolt with the head cut off, but I couldn't find any pass through style clevises that were narrow enough for the space alloted.

Then, after I found this male end clevis, i figured I'd get my buddy to weld on a piece of threaded tube, but Summit didn't have any, so this rod end, was substituted. And I didn't feel like waiting, so I simply cut threads on the end of the stock pushrod and BAM!

The one thing I would change next time is to cut a bellow the second "lip" on the stock rod, this would provide a wider range of adjustment. As it sits I had to trim about 1" from the clevis and there isn't much adjustment left to go shorter; But considering the whole point was to get the pedal off the floor, I'm not too concerned.


Installed.
I also trimmed about 2 square inches of material from outer edge of the pedal assembly...with a hacksaw...upside down. That way I can put the pin through from the outside and not have to worry about the cotter pin getting hung up.

again good progress!
it's really getting there now

Fun with exhaust Part 1

Got the clutch line installed, routed the wiring harness and re-installed the brake booster/MC. I'm considering finding a small reservoir for the clutch MC instead of making a mess cutting the nipple on the brake MC but that may be a project or later when I upgrade the brakes.


Now for exhaust. Figured I'd start with the downpipe and work my way back. I got a (what I assume is a 740t) downpipe with the parts lot I purchased. But the mounting flange on the exhaust side is different than the over axle pipe I picked up, so I went back to the yard and grabbed the downpipe from the 940 it came on for $6. Much to my surprise they were pretty different

740? pipe on the left with female flange on exhaust side. 940 pipe on the right with male flange on exhaust side.

I read a lot about people needing to cut out 1-2" from the 7/9 series downpipe for use on the 240.....ummm...:WTF: ? Fits perfectly fine, no chopping required.

Applied a thermal barrier to the areas that might see a little extra heat on account of the downpipe.



Then I ran out of daylight, but tomorrow I'll be turning my $11 over axle exhaust into something useful.