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Squirterizational mod RENTAL KIT for INCREASED PERFORMANCE

Small Issue with the new kit...

Hey John and Ken,
I just got done trying to drill my block and ran into a problem. The diameter of the spot face cutter seems a little bit smaller than I remembered from the last kit. It doesn't clean an area big enough for the squirter to seal flat against the block. I might be able to fix this with an appropriate sized washer to raise the squirter above the block a touch. But right now the body of the squirter is bigger than the smooth area and it won't lay flat.

Pictures:

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I'll get some measurements. But I had not used copper washers on the previous 2 engines I squirterized. The nozzles don't come with them, and the way the bolt fits inside the nozzle body with 1/16" oil clearance around the outside it would take a very special washer.
 
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I think I'm the first one to finish up a squirter install with the new kits. We had some sorting out to do with the spot face cutter. But Redwood tracked down the right parts and now we have a working kit again. It is great to have this going in the community again. Tools have been sent back to California...

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The latest kit is back home now, tested, simplified, and complete with everything needed except your 3/8" drill.

It is literally an easy one step drill, second operation spot face, and third hand tap the threads with each operation guided by the fixture to assure accuracy and alignment.

Thanks for helping with the development and doing the field testing operations qwkswede.

A big shout out to my friend Mark who teaches machining at the local Junior College, Catherine at Daly City Tool Mart, Ian & Eric at High Performance Auto in Torrance CA for the B20 fixtures, and especially to John V the mastermind of it all.

<a href="http://s255.photobucket.com/user/redwoodchair/media/JVAB%20Squirter%20Kit/SquirterKit20_zps316589f1.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh136/redwoodchair/JVAB%20Squirter%20Kit/SquirterKit20_zps316589f1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo SquirterKit20_zps316589f1.jpg"/></a>
 
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Do you have a sharpening plan for the drills? They cut great right now, but I imagine after some time they will need to be freshened. The process of cutting thorough into an odd shaped cavity like the oil passage is pretty hard on the drill. It is really tough to break through that smoothly without the bit getting stuck against the uneven metal in the passage.
 
qwkswede said:
Do you have a sharpening plan for the drills? They cut great right now, but I imagine after some time they will need to be freshened. The process of cutting thorough into an odd shaped cavity like the oil passage is pretty hard on the drill. It is really tough to break through that smoothly without the bit getting stuck against the uneven metal in the passage.
Click to expand...

Buy new or send them to the JC machine shop with Mark.

It's all part of the cost of maintaining the tools and keeping this going.
 
qwkswede said:
Do you have a sharpening plan for the drills? They cut great right now, but I imagine after some time they will need to be freshened. The process of cutting thorough into an odd shaped cavity like the oil passage is pretty hard on the drill. It is really tough to break through that smoothly without the bit getting stuck against the uneven metal in the passage.
Click to expand...


That is not so much the thing. Mostly chuck is not tight so the shaft gets a burr, and then people just pull the trigger and don't control speed....Cast iron is not rough on cutting tools.
Kinda wierd, great for abrasion but cuts easily.

Glad to see this is working, just a reminder when doing the spot face operation---which i was just doing on a B21 last night---control the speed and it IS supposed to cut the face, not just worry off dust.. so some down pressure--but tighten the chuck!
 
^ +1

:nod:

I thought of that and used a spot facer extension with three drill chuck flats.

I'm not a machinist but I've found that @ 600 rpm is a good speed to chew at cast iron, stainless, and titanium.

Then a good spin and a touch with the spot face cutter to make a nice chatter free surface for the squirter to sit on.
 
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Now available with the kit or separately is a 3/4" NPT tap and 59/64" drill bit for machining the block for a turbo oil return fitting.

A drill with a 1/2" chuck is needed for the bit.

Deposit is $50.


<a href="http://s255.photobucket.com/user/redwoodchair/media/JVAB%20Squirter%20Kit/SquirterKit21_zps8c8d2ed6.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh136/redwoodchair/JVAB%20Squirter%20Kit/SquirterKit21_zps8c8d2ed6.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo SquirterKit21_zps8c8d2ed6.jpg"/></a>
 
John V said:
The savages will promtly ruin the shank as well, their wrists, limp as they are, will heal eventually, the shank stays fuxxored till somebody chucks the bit up and cleansd it up.. and a damaged shank can't be tightened enough so it'll slip more and more.
Pooor drill bit, so soon to suffer such abuse.:pat:
Click to expand...

Should I put 3 chuck flats on it with the belt sander so they just break their wrists?

:lol:

I'm not a machinist but I have moved some metal in my time...

:oogle:
 
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