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I used a Rostra universal for almost 20 years. You can activate it with either the Volvo OEM switch or with one of Rostra's -- which look reasonably OEM. Much better performance than OEM - fully electronic and adjustable in a variety of ways. When I went with a DBW LS a couple of years ago I switched to a Dakota Digital unit -- turns out it is made by Rostra as well. Kept my same activation switch. You can see it below the wiper stalk on the passenger side of the column. This has all worked perfectly with a pickup and 2 magnets on the driveshaft. There are provisions for VSS input as well.
http://i.imgur.com/opL28aB.jpg[/url]
[url]http://www.rostra.com/universal-aftermarket-cruise-control-by-rostra.php[/url] #250-1223 -- probably get it through Jegs or Summit or Amazon[/QUOTE]
Your car is N/A, right? V8, but N/A?
Some of the cruise systems worked so badly from the factory on the turbo 4cylinder 760s it was hilarious. Would basically sweep from full boost to vac regularly instead of maybe allowing slight variations in speed and easing on the throttle.
Really?
->Vacuum pump can't keep up the speed when climbing a slight hill. I live in Colorado, so the terrain is up and down, not flat (sometimes up for a long way).
->No speed adjustment down without hitting the brakes or turnoff/on cruise system, and resetting speed.
My pump now has either a bad pressure switch or a leak in the vacuum pump.
I figured somebody here would have figured out another maker/model that uses a better system that I can grab off a car in the junkyard for peanuts.
I was hoping somebody had a better solution, instead of just replacing the pump.
I would have worn I saw someone put a cruise control form a 850 in their 240.
VACUUM SYSTEM CHECK
NOTE: To properly test vacuum system, it is necessary to operate vacuum motor and regulator with jumper wires from control unit base. Use care when connecting wires as an incorrect connection can destroy components.
Jumper Wire
Manufacture 2 jumper wires. One should be a single wire with one normal blade terminal at one end and a thin blade terminal at the other end. One blade terminal should be thin. Other jumper wire should be a double wire joined at one end with a normal blade terminal, while other ends should have thin blade terminals.
Starting Vacuum Pump & Regulator
volvo 850 service repair workshop manual jumper cruise control cc
1) Ensure ignition is off. Remove cruise control unit from under-hood relay/fuse block. See Fig. 3. Connect single jumper wire between cruise control unit base terminals 1S and 7T. Connect one end of other wire to terminal 3S. See Fig. 5. Turn ignition on.
Fig. 5: Connecting Jumper Wires To Control Unit Base Terminals
Courtesy of Volvo Cars of North America.
2) Connect other end of wire connected to terminal 3S to terminal 9S. Vacuum regulator should click. Connect other wire end to terminal 7S. Vacuum motor should start while vacuum servo contracts so control cylinder is pulled up. Remove wire from terminal 7S when
vacuum servo is fully contacted, stopping vacuum motor. If system does not operate as described, go to step 4). If system operates as described, go to next step.
3) Let vacuum servo remain contracted for at least 30 seconds to ensure there is no leakage in vacuum system. See Fig. 2. To release vacuum servo, remove wire from terminal 9S. Turn ignition off. If system operates as described, go to step 7). If system does not
operate as described, go to next step.
4) Remove all jumper wires from control unit base. Connect voltmeter between cruise control unit base terminals 3S and 1S. If battery voltage is not present, check wiring to cruise control unit. If battery voltage is present, go to next step.
5) Ensure ignition is off. Connect ohmmeter between control unit base terminals 7T and 7S. Ohmmeter should indicate about 17 ohms (internal resistance of vacuum motor). Connect ohmmeter between control unit base terminals 7T and 9S. Ohmmeter should indicate about
100 ohms (internal resistance of regulator). If resistances are not to specification, take measurements at individual components (vacuum
motor and regulator) to determine whether fault is in component or wiring. If all measurements are to specification but vacuum system still leaks, go to next step.
6) Start vacuum pump and regulator as outlined in steps 1) and 2). Stop pump so vacuum leaks can be heard. If any valves are leaking and require adjustment, see BRAKE & CLUTCH VALVES under ADJUSTMENTS.
7) If system operated as described in step 3), start vacuum pump and regulator as outlined in steps 1) and 2). Stop vacuum pump when vacuum servo is fully contracted, but keep regulator connected. Press brake pedal to release vacuum servo. If vacuum servo does not release, loosen vacuum hose connection to release servo. Replace valve.
8) Start vacuum pump again and contract vacuum servo. Press clutch pedal to release vacuum servo. If servo does not release, replace valve.
No way in hell I'd want to hack a cruise module from another car into mine.
Small gutless cars often cruise poorly. That said, for best economy you're probably actually better off letting the speed vary just a bit (little faster down inclines, little slower up hills) to the extent that's possible without making any sudden adjustments or being a hazard.