Troubleshooting my Buchkaspark wasted spark install

Rather than list it all again, here is my post in the "how to" article stating what I did, and what doesn't work:

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=4963975&postcount=192

I went the Bosch Motorsport 2x2 coil and the 203 Bosch ignition module route, so I'm looking for suggestions from folks that went that road as well (not the Mitsu/Miata setup route) and who have the expected performance.

Seems to idle pretty well, although timing looked a little fast when I checked it; however that was after the car threw a CEL so perhaps the timing I saw then was normal for LIMP mode.

Since I've got idle, I'm going to presume the problem is in my primary and secondary side of my coils. The behavior is like classic "weak spark"....enough with little load, but as soon as you raise the engine RPM and load, it bucks & shudders. I've seen this before when primary side of the coil (wiring or current supplied) was deficient. The BOSCH catalog says that the 2x2 coil should see 7~8A max. on the primary side of the coils.

I believe Karl's board is working fine....he explained that all he did was separate the signals which originally went to the 124 ignition module transistor. Since it idles, the input side must be AOK. As I stated in the listed post, I've tried a pair of Bosch 407 coils, pair of 203 ignition modules, a pair of plug wires sets (well running current set and new BOGI's), ohmed out all the wiring which was triple checked (by 2 persons) and also AOK.

My experience is telling me that I'm not getting adequate primary coil saturation (either current or dwell, maybe both), but I'm looking for the cause & remedy.

Thanks TBers.

Im expiriencing this same exact symptom.

How long ago did you purchase your board?

Edit - I still don't believe that the board is the issue, as my car idles just fine. I am curious if your's came in the same relative timeframe....another data point.

This might be an idiot question... but since you're changing the ignition system, should you try a different plug gap? What are the condition of the plugs anyways? Not something that should be overlooked when checking through an ignition system that should be working and isn't, right? I'd really like to see how this works out, considering purchasing one of these boards.

turbotankshane said:

This might be an idiot question... but since you're changing the ignition system, should you try a different plug gap? What are the condition of the plugs anyways? Not something that should be overlooked when checking through an ignition system that should be working and isn't, right? I'd really like to see how this works out, considering purchasing one of these boards.

Click to expand...

I don't believe so. My plugs have less than 10K miles on them.....work perfectly with my stock ignition setup. I believe (gut talking here) that the plug requirements are a function of the mechanical engine....head combustion chamber design, boost pressures, compression pressures, and type of driving you do. I don't believe for a minute the plugs are a factor in my problem with WS.

I recommend this upgrade, plenty of true LH2.4 believers around the world running this setup and singing it's praises. It flat works......except for mine which has some sort of deficiency.....the purpose of this thread.

Update - checked the idling timing with the current EZK and compared to the box modified with the Buchkaspark....same exact timing, around 20* BTDC by eyeball. Previously I had test driven the mod'd EZK with the OE ignition hooked up and the wastedspark setup OFF, and it drove normal. Well this morning, took a couple mile drive and the mod'd box threw another CEL, while driving the normal coil and ignition module. It did seem to drive normally even under 10+ PSI boost...but I'd swear it's got an occasional misfire.

I'm now thinking my EZK board has a deficiency....one of the solder joints needs reflowed after the Buchkaspark wires were landed to the various items.

I'll reflow those joints with the soldering iron and retest...hopefully that is my issue.

Edit - I inspected the board as closely as my old eyes will allow, and didn't really see any issue at the wire attachment points. Decided to go ahead and reflow anyway at the back side of the PCB. Carefully reflowed solder at the spark output resistor, VR output leg, and 5V leg. The only other attachment point is the GND and there is nothing on the backside of the board that I could see, just a pad on the device side. Confirmed a good ground at other ground points which were visible between the Buchkaspark board and the PCB.

Reinstalled and test drive.....now there is no CEL being set, even with a couple 16 PSI runs. I'll leave this modified EZK installed and drive her to work the next days to say if it stays clean.

Next step - temporary reinstall of the wasted spark and another test drive of the Bosch 407 coil and 203 module.

DET17 everything you have mentioned i too have expirienced and tested... Nevermind my sig it beed updated but i still have same symptoms. Currently im lh2.4 with a chipped 967 and black ezk im not sure the number. But also i have tested solder point and they were true. Srt4 stg 1 inj and 025amm. Bosch wr7 @.026 also running e85 stock fuel pumps n stuff. On a side note; sometime my idle goes a little leand also while cruising and light throttle it gies lean. But when i go past stock boost i go rich dependent on throttle input. Mbc set to 18psi.

And also with these symptoms you too are having. On/off boost.... ^^^

Well I spoke too soon after the reflowed solder joints on the 3 wire landings. Drove into Atlanta and set a CEL enroute. I also still notice a slight occasional misfire which is likely what is setting the CEL. My original EZK with TLAO chip installed was reconnected, and normal ops resumed.

I can only then conclude my EZK board is buggered as a result of the 4 solder connections which were made to it. FWIW, this 94 EZK came from an EGR vehicle, but I'm fairly certain that it provides the extra output to control the EGR which my 92 doesn't have, so that should be moot.

When my son visits this coming weekend, we will RE-solder those points and test again. The only option left for me is to retrofit the Buchkaspark board to my old 148 EZK (non-chippable) as the last working EZK I've got, and retest the wasted spark setup sans TLAO chip. If that EZK likewise malfunctions, I'll contact Karl about getting a replacement board.....although I still doubt there is any defect in it. It is frustrating to put this much time in an upgrade and to continue to experience the deficiencies........

Success! We transplanted the Buchkaspark WS board into my old 92 EZK, a 148 box without the daughter card & TLAO chip. Temporarily wired the setup today and she fired right up and pulls hard! I'm still getting an occasional misfire with 16 PSI boost, but I suspect I might have a fouled plug, as the wire set was new. Once the final install is completed with factory crimps/solder joints we will see what we've got. I definitely need to find a cool location to mount that 203 ignition module & heat sink block, as that guy gets HOT. Bosch recommends the conductive paste between the 203 and the aluminum heat sink.

The good news is it revs smooth (and actually "sounds" a bit different, which I can't explain), and my butt dyno is telling me that it pulls harder than the OEM single bosch coil setup. Looking forward to making a permanent installation of the wasted spark setup.

For TLAO chip wizards, I don't know what else Mike modified in the EZK chip other than the fuel cut RPM. I'll scan thru his chip feedback thread, but I doubt he changed advance timing of the EZK. I have been advised to solder pin #18 on the EZK to ground, to pull -3* of timing, which (according to some users) reduces the super rich AFRs. Another topic, for sure.

I am surprised to find this thread detailing my exact issues I've had since I got my wasted spark setup installed. I have Fred's chips (I think) but am experiencing the exact same symptoms. Just to reiterate, changing to an *unchipped* box fixed the issue? I was about to start ripping mine apart and checking all my solders. I've already replaced my plugs and wires thinking they may have been the culprit but no change.