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Canadian 1984 244 DL B21A/B6304 project log.

Yeahh...FYI, if anyone is reading this and can make use of the info, the stock CBV spring is nasty weak. I have a couple 1G DSM BOV/DVs here, so I cut the top off a 'crushed' one to see what I could do with the innards. Turns out the spring inside is exactly the same height as the 'volvo' CBV spring (since they're mitsu turbos anyway), but is made out of wire almost twice as thick. Also, the CBV 'cap' is pretty much the same shape as the top of the DSM BOV, which has led me to cut and shut an adjustable DSM BOV together. I'll see if it holds vacuum tomorrow :).

If it doesn't, I'm definitely going to try the DSM spring inside the volvo CBV. Maybe it'll work, maybe it won't, but I won't find out until I try.
 
Weekly update!
I made a CBV blockoff plate, and installed a 1G DSM BOV. As a guy who's dabbled in DSM vehicles on and off over the years, I've got a bunch of them...so I figured I'd go with what I had instead of paying for something that may or may not be chinabay crap. It works pretty well, so I'm happy. The CBV sucks for boost response, especially since it seems like the spring isn't strong enough to resist anything more than 10 in/Hg, so it opens constantly.

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I also headed out on a roadtrip (2.5 hours each way) to attend a 'local' event hosted at an airstrip in Picton, Ontario called Armdrop. It's now become a huge event that hosts races three times a summer. No lights, just a flagger, and a bunch of pylons on an airstrip. A lot of oldschool stuff comes out, that would never hit a real dragstrip, so it's pretty fun. I didn't run due to concern over a dying center bearing/support, so I just cruised and watched. I got 9.3L/100km too, which is 25mpg in southern-speak, so I'm pretty happy. It got 14L/100km (17mpg) last summer as a singled carbed 3-speed NA.

http://armdropdragracing.com/index.html

Stopping for some water to put in the cooler, saturday morning.

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Today, I finished the new turbo setup. A big 16G with a 9-blade TD05H wheel in an 8cm T-3 housing...should be interesting. I think I put a 7psi spring in the ebaygate, but I can't remember. I still have to finish the downpipe, so I can't test it just yet.

I'm most interested in seeing how long the welds on the external gate extension last. It is made of cast steel, so it SHOULD be fine...but who knows :).

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Thanks, I much prefer airboxes over cone filters, when possible. This one is from an early Dodge turbo 1 car (with a draw-through setup, TB in front of turbo). I've used them before, and a properly clean paper air filter costs me almost no power loss over a K&N panel. There's also a nice port on the side to run the PCV line to, with a sponge in a compartment inside to absorb the oil condensate :).

The intake to the box is 3", and the outlet to the turbo is also 3". It's a nice little piece.
 
Neat, but why not run a stock turbo box? I would if I could be bothered to deal with the washer and coolant tanks.
 
Quite simply, I didn't have a 240 box at hand. My car was originally a B21A Canadian carbed car, and the box was near the battery, beside the rad. It wouldn't have worked with the intercooler piping at all. I tend to work with what I've got, or build something, instead of shopping online/spending if I can...mainly as a discipline thing, because I'm constantly buying things I don't need. That's how I ended up with a Turbo Dodge airbox, btw, lol. It's been sitting on a shelf in my garage for a while.
 
Thanks, I much prefer airboxes over cone filters, when possible. This one is from an early Dodge turbo 1 car (with a draw-through setup, TB in front of turbo). I've used them before, and a properly clean paper air filter costs me almost no power loss over a K&N panel. There's also a nice port on the side to run the PCV line to, with a sponge in a compartment inside to absorb the oil condensate :).

The intake to the box is 3", and the outlet to the turbo is also 3". It's a nice little piece.

Personally, I'm a big fan of a nice deep pleated paper filter. I do HVAC design for a living, so filters are a 'thing' for me. There are a lot of snake oil solutions out there involving oil misted filters, foam filters, electrostatic and so on. In the end, you really cant beat a good paper filter. For the K&N lovers out there, the only real reason that there is lower pressure drop is that it doesn't filter as well. In other words, it lets more dirt into the engine. In the end, if you drive on the street exclusively, it really wont make that much of a difference. On the other hand if you are like me and take your car up into the mountains, an 'oiled' cone filter will only hurt your engine.
 
The latest!
I solved my driveline vibration, finally. When I swapped to the big driveshaft to fit the AW71L, I made sure that it NEVER came apart. As it turns out, someone had definitely split the halves, because the marks were not aligned at all. I put in a new center support, spring, and washer while I was down there. No more vibration when pulling away :).

I also put a bushing in my auto shifter lever, which I didn't have. It's awesome to not have 1/2" of play between gears on the auto shifter, lol.

The final bit of work I did was to swap to a big 16G and 3" DP. I've never liked the spool on mitsu TD05 turbos, and this is no different. I start to get boost at 2500, but it doesn't top out until near 5k. I'm seeing 15psi at that point (gotta change the spring), and I think I'm blowing out the spark. At 5grand, and 15psi, the car starts to buck until it shifts at 5700, which drops it down to 4400rpm and ~10 psi. I need to look in to that.

Even though the spool sucks, it's DEFINITELY got top end now ;).
 
I ported the hell out of the wastegate setup, and I'm seeing a proper 4 psi (running a soffffffffffffffffffffffffft spring, as a tester) until the RPMs start to climb, when it starts to creep again. It hits 15psi at the WOT shift point, then drops to 10, and back up to 15, but no bucking this time. I guess I'm going to try an external dump pipe and see what happens. I think I've run the recirc for the wastegate back in to the DP in a bad spot, or way too close to the outlet of the hotside.

It is definitely a LOT faster with the 16G though, even at 4 psi. The 16T I had on it previously was nice...but not this nice :).
 
The saga continues.
I got an internal gate T3 hotside from Mamba Turbo (same stuff as Kinugawa, just cheaper), and have been altering my setup to work with it. Re-did my oil return (needed to be an inch longer), modded my 3" downpipe, etc etc. While I was re-installing my oil return, I happened to look at one of the engine mounts...and it's torn. Checked the other one...torn too. FFS. I've got a set of Classicswede red poly mounts on the way, and I'm guessing that driveline vibration was definitely caused by the torn mounts. Looks like I'm in no hurry to finish the re-assembly, since I can't drive it until I fix the busted mounts.

Sigh :(.
 
Got impatient and installed a 'custom' pass side mount (an industrial vibration damper purchased at Princess Auto for $6. Princess is Canadian harbour freight.), and a stock driver's side so I could drive the car.

Then blew out the rear frost plug, because it was a stupid block heater, and overtightened when installed. Sigh.

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I've got to order a replacement plug from Volvo tomorrow, and am going to look in to that waterless coolant. If pressure is the problem, then pressure should be removed.
 
Frost plugs arriving tomorrow, and ClassicSwede poly engine mounts arrived today.

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I am (well, was) still experiencing crazy boost creep when I stomped the throttle and it kicked down, so I ported every part of the wastegate portion of the exhaust housing that I could reach, and fabbed up a new internal gate actuator setup. This one is from a T3 that was on a 300zx, and has a longer throw than the DSM one I was using. I also clearanced the area around the flapper, so it could move freely to it's maximum extension. I know it won't, but it certainly won't hurt. I have to weld the cap back over the flapper area, with a spacer, since the flapper moves a lot more now, but that's cake :).
 
Back up and running! Getting a steady 5psi with the new actuator and porting, so I call that a success. I'm also running straight coolant now, no water, in an attempt to remove pressure from the system and keep the new frost plug in. So far it's working too. I cruise a degree or two higher than normal, but it rises about 5 deg higher in city driving. The e-fan has no issues though, and I present the fact that the boiling point of EG coolant is 197*C, and I cruise at 87*C. When I shut the car off, the temp continues to rise and peaked at 109*C...but without an achievable boil-over point, there's absolutely no issue.

I was considering a swap to Evans coolant...but regular 100% prestone is almost as good. It' slightly better at thermal transfer, but requires more volume than Evans to equal water's ability to do the same thing.

To test the zero-pressure thing, I evacuated all the mix out of the system with a shop vac, and went for a long drive. Lots of idling too. When I got home, I went to open the cap...to no explosion at all :). I'd say that's a success.
 
I'm at a standstill. As it is currently, the car isn't much fun to drive. The big 16G has an 8cm hotside, which definitely has it spooling higher than I'd like. Another issue is the AW71L, which I'm growing to hate. The lockup SUCKS. At 80kph, which is where I spend most of my time when cruising, I'm seeing 1900 rpm...so there's ZERO spool. The car is a DOG.

So, either I find an AW71, a 4.10 gear set (3.73 currently), spend on yet another hotside (6cm), swap the 16T back on, or go crazy and use the 13C. Sigh.
 
I picked up some things that will let me have way more fun, and possibly even hit the drags at least once this summer. An AEM water/meth kit, and some better injectors (Deka 500cc vs. the junkyard 440ccs I am using now). I was planning on installing everything last week...but a slight bout of the lumpy plague has me quarantined until wed. I could go out to the garage, but it's much nicer to just spend time catching up on my sleep and working on the car later.
 
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